ROFL Nice saying there.The hose wasn't too hard or soft. When a hose gets to either extreme in feel its toast. Also, if they start looking funny they're done also. To me this one "seemed" ok...guess not. I recently saw at the autoparts store a chart recommending replacement of all hoses...

The crowbar comments were entertaining!ROFLAs for it being the original hose...don't know. I appeared to be in better shape than an 18 year old hose...but ya never know.:confused:One more reason to fix them before they blow...it cost me about $18 in antifreeze and the hose I just got...

This isn't a Q but more of an example and some advice. I rebuilt pretty much everything attached to the motor (including the motor) this last winter. I have about 200 miles on the car now and the ONLY hose I didn't replace was the bottom radiator hose. It looked good and felt fine. Was in the...

Did your gasket come with the o-rings? Also, if you torque down the valve cover too tight it will warp or crack on ya and you'll get leaks. I don't even use a ratchet...just the extension and socket and tighten them by hand that way.

I spent five minutes with a spotlight looking for it, still couldn't find it:confused: I did find that the previous owner had half removed one of the hatch hinge bolts:rolleyes:Looks like corrosion was half the problem. The connections were quite rusty and I could barely get the plug...

Which fuse is this light on? I'll check for ground and post up if there is any on the appropriate wire. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give that a try this morning and edit this post with my results. Thanks for the tip.That is a valid Q so no worries about being a smarty:D However I did...

I searched for it but couldn't find it. It was a comparison writeup between the three versions. Basically, if you are having hla ticking problems try the revised lifters. If you don't have a problem right now then don't worry about it. PS They are actually relatively easy to replace with only...

Bolt = .436" cam gear hole = .511"As for drilling out the cam...I think I'll just get another pulley. The threads are fine and all present inside the cam. I'd probably sleeve the bolt before drilling out the cam and the gear.I got it almost centered using a pry bar and loosening the...

The "cargo" or hatch or rear interior light has no power going to it. I could not find the typical push button switch on the hatch (like on most doors)...is there one? Thanks.

Thanks for the info guys.:thumb:As for the dowel pin...I definitely had that in the hole in the gear to begin with. That'd be one heck of a wobble (side to side) if it wasn'tLOL Its straight too...found a thread where someone had a dowel pin that was bentOMGDoes anyone have a measurement...

Sounds like you are good to go. However, before you go to start the motor make sure the lifters aren't stuck in the up position and that you can push on them and they go down but spring back up.

The dowel pin is fine and tight. So it sounds like the bolt hole in the cam gear should be real tight on the bolt. Must have wallowed it out when it was loose...DOH!

My exhaust cam gear has up/down movement (eccentric) and I have a bad feeling that if I continue driving it "as is" something bad will happen. A little background: rebuilt the motor and had a huge clacking noise...turns out it was the exhaust cam gear bolt not being tight and allowing the gear...

No offense taken. A stethoscope was on my list of things to buy tomorrow. I was using a piece of wood to listen for where the noise was coming from. It works surprisingly well (but not good enough in this case) and an old timer showed that trick to me. I was using a 1" dowel that was about 3...

I have resolved this but wanted to post up my experience for the benefit of others.Just got done with a four month rebuild of this car including the entire motor. Crank polish, new main/rod bearings etc etc. The usual rebuild. Even put in the 3g revised lifters. Got it started and has...

They coulda screwed up the timing belt install and not tensioned it correctly which led to stripped "teeth" on the timing belt.Bottom line...take it back to the shop cause its their work and there may be bent valves now.

I pulled them out, bled them so they would collapse by hand easily then reinstalled. They were WAY louder after I did that. Took it for a drive and they were back to the "normal" loud like beforehand after a couple of miles. I think I'll leave them alone for a hundred miles or so. I've only got...

Went to the wrecking yard today. None of the several eclipses, talons, lasers that they had used these lugnuts. They all used acorn style ones:notgood: BUT, they had a '92 4runner that had all the lugnuts I needed and they are identical in size to the ones the talon uses:thumb: 50 cents each!:cool:

Got the car running and a few of those lifters are making more and more noise. I think they either collapsed or didn't get fully flushed and bled. I also saw that it took some people several days of driving for the ticking to subside so I don't really know at this point. Can you tell if one is...

The 1990 Talon TSI that I have came with acorn style lug nuts holding on the stock aluminum wheels that require the mag style lug nuts:notgood: I don't quite understand why these lug nuts are so rare and so expensive. The parts stores want $4 each for themWTF Ebay has 24 for $40 so thats...

Got any more details on "the pin" that broke?I can recall a spring clip but no pins.

I bought an aftermarket elbow thinking it was a bolt on. Well it is a bolt on but the UICP won't fit on it. So here's what I did. I bought a piece of 1.75" exhaust pipe for $3 at the parts store. Got a 2" pipe coupling from Home Depot for about $4. I shortened my UICP by a few inches, put about...

Got the motor in and I'll update this thread with my experience.I basically bolted everything on that I could (including the tranny) except for the following: Transfer case Motor mounts (all four) valve cover (optional if you run your chain differently than mine) intake support bracket...

Wow! That is a very complete motor. I think I'll put on that front motor mount too...might save some time. I'm also gonna put the turbo and water pipe on there.Just got the seal in a few minutes ago and took a break to go online.Thanks for the tips guys!:thumb:edit: got the water pipe on...

Thank you for all the tips. I tried tilting the motor but it just wasn't enough. The clutch was hitting the bellhousing and the crank sprocket was hitting above the frame. So I pulled the tranny which only took about one hour. I'm gonna wait till tomorrow to buy a new passenger side axle seal...

Well I tried for about half an hour to figure out how to get the motor in there last night. WOW! I'm a bit stumped at the moment.:confused: It may be possible if I can get the back of the motor slanted down ALOT. I'm using a standard type engine hoist by the way. TO slant it I'll probably need...

I just put it on and you're right. Doesn't stick out much at all.Thanks for the tip. I was worried about that so I didn't bolt the cover down and made sure the chains didn't touch it when lifting.

What about the A/C bracket? On or Off?

Thanks for the tips:thumb: Yes, the tranny is still in the car along with the a/c and PS pump and oil filter housing. I've got the radiator and fans out so I could work with some room so I guess that'll help. Thanks for the tip about the t-case also.

Is there anything that might hang me up or cause frustration by bolting it on before I install the motor?So far on my long block I've got the timing belt tension set, the water pump on, the oil pump on, the intake and exhaust manifolds, the clutch, the thermostat housing.Should I put...

The mitsubishi part number is MD719710 = Drivers side axleshaft seal (where it comes out of the tranny) It is about half metal. You can get it through the dealership or mitsubishparts.com or a number of other sources. Btw, There's a section on this board that tells you where you can get parts...

MD719710 = Drivers side axleshaft (axle shaft) seal part number (where it comes out of the tranny) The outer ring is metal. I happen to be installing that one tonight on a 1990 TSI AWD and was searching for any tips on shortcuts and happened to find this "unresolved" post.Make sure that the...

Old thread but thought I'd add some info. My front tab was there but the rear tab is long gone for unknown reason.FYI: A chevy 350 motor tab (either one) will fit perfectly for the rear tab. The tab I used came off a late 70s chevy 350. There are literally millions of these laying around in...

They are supposed to be genuine Topline/Johnson. I've heard of topline but am not familiar with Johnson. As for how they compare...I don't have much to compare it with. My motor isn't back in the car yet and I only got to drive it for about 10 minutes 2.5 years ago with the 1g lifters before...

After a search I realize there weren't any (that I could find) pics of the 1g and 3g lifters side by side so you can see the HUGE difference in the top oil port. So here ya go. EDIT: Found one pic about halfway through the 18 pages of the "lifter tick" thread.PS I only had the car running for...

Thanks! I'll go try to figure out which bolts it attaches with right now.edit: aw crap! It goes behind the front motor mount and I've already got the timing belt on...DOH!ps take the top pic and rotate it 180 degrees and that's how it goes onto three of the bolts of the front motor...

Its been several months since I tore the engine apart to rebuild it. I tried to take pics of most things but this particular part eluded my photographic record and I haven't had much luck in trolling through my factory manual.Do you know what this "shield" is and where it goes? Thanks for...

Thanks man! I saved that one in my archives :thumb:

That just looks plain awesome to me:thumb:my dang lifters stole my clear cam gear money:cry: so please, stop tormenting me with those pics :D

The zaklee one is nice! Wish I hadn't run out of money on this motor rebuild so quickly. I ended up making mine out of Home depot lexan and used a rotary tool and silicone. This one is pretty much temporary until I can get the real one from zaklee. Oh, and the color on the cam gears looks orange...

Hmmm...just thought of something about tire rotations. A buddy of mine is a manager at a natiional tire store and on 4x4s they switch side to side when the front ones go to the rear. The rears come straight forward when rotated up. He said they did this on all 4x4s. I bet this should be done on...

This thread was quite helpful. Especially the part about going back through the same sequence twice or so at the same torque setting. Thanks.:thumb:Anyone notice the contradiction between #5 where it states that "ANY moly lube is better than motor oil" then the note at the bottom says...

I probably spent more time last night trying to fish the thing out than it would have taken to just remove the pan. I'll be removing the pan this morning then putting it right back on. DOH!Usually when something like this happens it means I've lost my concentration and need to go take a break...

I was putting my head studs on my shortblock which is still on the engine stand and I accidentally put the stud in the driver rear corner oil drain hole. Its about 1 inch from the stud hole and about the same size. The dang arp stud went "tink tink tink bang!" as it went straight down to the oil...

No. Wait for a running turbocharged (awd if you like). With one like you are describing there will likely be other things wrong that you can't tell right away. It will cost you more to fix this one than buying a running one thats a turbo. I see stock running ones all the time for around $1500 on...

Do both...but here's how. Take about half the money towards the car. The other half will get you a mid to late 90s 600 or a newer ninja 250 or gs500 or sv650. All are pretty good starter bikes and you won't do thousands of dollars of damage by dropping it once (pretty much guaranteed any bike...

I took my motor out with a jack. Had the head off and everything else so it was pretty much just the short block. Wasn't too bad. I'll be putting it back in with a hoist though. Harbor freight has a pretty good deal on an engine stand or you could find a used one. Had to buy about three $2...

I guess you won't totally know what needs to be replaced till you get it all the way apart to inspect it. I'm sorta doing a similar rebuild. It started off with just replacing the valves...then it went from there into a total rebuild. The machine shop was able to hone the cylinders. I was able...

I tried to put my responses in bold and underline near the Qs for ya.

Thanks for the tips. Its really just the first few threads that are goobered by jamming a bigger coarse thread screw in there.