If you put the blow of valve on the hot side you can get compressor surge because it does not release enough air when ever i hard pipe a car i put it as close to the throttle body as possible so i dont have compressor surge.

I had a lady run a red light at 55 mph and tbone me and my wife only 10 days after the car was done being built,but any ways i had $12,000 in the car not including the price of the car and they only gave me $4500 but they sold me the car back for $100 and i parted it out and made $3000 from...

yes to port a head right and get good results you have to know what your doing porting the crap out of the is not always the best way to do it,like i said the best for most 4g63's is to pocket port-blending the seats the head and gasket match the the ports

You could have it welded but i would not trust it my input and would not do it at my shop the only heads we had welded were sbc aluminum heads on the intake side because the guy did not want to buy a new one

Look for a new head because if you ported all the exaust runners the same like you should you will more than likely have another runner that has a thin spot and thats not good it could break on the motor.How built is the motor this head is going on most 4g63 engines the best port job you can do...

190,000 miles and i ran a75 shot of nitrous and 22psi with a 16g and the head was redone at 160,000 miles the car ran great but i pulled the motor out to build the new one thats in my profile

You have to set the afc on 2cyl setting, or else the tach on the afc will read half of what it really is, and the correction settings for the rpm range will be off because it thinks it is less rpm.

I was rolling at 10mph and jumped on it and it did the same thing as you said here are some pics of my axle

you can use the 90 cables and shifter if you unbolt the shifter arm off the tranny that unbolts and replace it with the one from the 90, and take the arm that does not unbolt and drill a hole where the 90 shifter arm is factory, it is in the middle of the arm,you can look at the arms and see...

87-88 turbo 2 rx7 is a 550cc and it is plug and play,and the evo 8 has 560 injectors that will work also.

It looks to be your oil return tube they crack all the time and will leak all the time.Wash it off and watch it you can see before the flex its clean and at the flex it s covered in oil.

1.8 60foot with 26-10-16 et street leaving on the stutter box with 10psi and i was still spinning i should pull low 1.7s maybe high 1.6s.

I have a 14b with a 7cm housing thats ported and i have full boost by 2800rpm's.You need to check your wastegate flaper to see if its stuck open. You have 8.5 comp, you should spool that turbo up before 3000 check for cracks in the housing.and that is 16psi on pump on my turbo.

I run 7s on the street and when im on the nitrous with 25 psi i run the 8s and i have never fouled out a 7.

Make sure its unleaded race gas,they always run better on high octane gas.More boost no knock,and if you still have nitrous it will love it.I run GT 109 with 25psi and a 75shot of nitrous with no knock.

Check to make sure you dont have a vacuum leak,your throttle cable is stuck,or your idle air control motor might be stuck open, when they fail they stick open and you will idle very high.

Just run a good support from the block to the turbo and you will be fine.

Most of the cars we do it to are street cars and the one with the most miles on it is about 20,000 miles its a acura. what most people dont understand is the weight of the turbo and the exaust, and the fact that the motor is moving around alot.We have never had a problem just support the turbo...

Like revolution said you have to support the manifold, at the shop i work at when we install a turbo header we use angle iron, and make 2 supports from the block to the turbo and we have never had one crack.

Look for a 14b or a s16g you can get them cheap, and do a fuel pump.Also you will need the 2nd gen install kit.That would be the best bang for buck,plus your boost wont fall off like the t25.

The turbo is a hahn racecraft 16g, look at the adapter plate. that turbo uses a t3 flange, and the plate to adapt to the factory manifold, and check for boost leaks those are a fairly good turbo.

You cant run it of the return. You have to run it from the the feed line in from the filter to the fuel rail.

I had a gsx that did the same thing, it was the exaust housing it was cracked so bad that it would not boost, its like having no wastegate flapper on there. Hope this helps you just my input,also check the cat.

60 foot times with no burnout on my fwd are 1.8 on the stutter box set to 6000, but that was spinning the tires past the 60 foot mark.On the street if i do a good burnout,my friends tell me it launches as hard as a awd. Next time i go to the track i will do a good burnout and it should be in the...

I run 26-10.5-16 m/t et streets on my car, could not be happier. They hook up very good, and long life.

Hey guys I just installed Prothanes in my laser,and i have the balance shafts removed. I knew I would have a vibration at idle, but it has a mild vibration to 8000 rpm you can hear it vibrating the car from 3000 up when i hit boost and nothing else has changed it did not vibrate like this...

I had a three inch o2 elimator/downpipe on my 91 awd, and you can get the filter off its just tight.