Your 2g is different than my 1g. On the 1g the feed line comes from the T-housing at an angle. I can see the bottom line or drain line working but I know I will have to cut it short to make it work. The top line is another story as I don't think it will work just leaving it straight, I think it...
That's what I was thinking. Hopefully they bend fairly easily and I can just slide rubber water lines over them. On my 1g, the drain line is not in the block but it's directly on the water pipe right beneath the turbo. I'm wondering if I can still use that line and just cut it to length line and...
How exactly do those lines get connected on the engine side. Do you just slide the water hoses over the end of the pipe? Getting my BB soon and just trying to figure that kit out since there isn't any written info on it out there.
Yes. A larger exhaust will cause even more creep. The EVO16G doesn't even like to run at under 20psi without creeping. Trust me. That's why I did the portwork, to eliminate my creep problems. The EVO is notorious for it's creep problems. It's a great turbo as long as you do the portwork unless...
Yes you need to port it. Port the turbine housing inlet. I actually ended up removing most of the divider between the wastegate exit and the turbine side to eliminate creep completely. There is a pictur of this on Dejons website if you don't know what I'm talking about. The wastegate upgrade is...
If it was the original 1g manifold, that doesn't suprise me one bit. Mine was cracked all the way through all 4 runners on the bottom when I took it off. I couldn't believe it didn't just break in half. The EVO will hold up much better due to it's much higher nickle content. Mines been on for a...
Ah, that's inside the turbine housing. As long as they are not all the way through to the outside, it should be ok. You could definetly use some portwork there.
Wow!! Iv'e never actually seen a turbine housing crack on the top like that. I assume that's the original 1g turbine housing that came on the car? Time to replace it for sure.
I for one, would really like to know what you mean by this post?? Are you implying something? You need to realize that a lot of people on Talk supported you and brought you to where you are today even though you may not like some of the feedback you recieve. What type of feeling do you think a...
Here's one for you :cry: That's what your doing right now. :rolleyes: A little sensitive are ya?? Valuable space? Please!!! Yeah, there's a whole ton of valuable, important information in this thread. :rolleyes:
That's an ass, not a ass. Learn proper English. By the way give your opinion to somebody who gives a fuk. :rolleyes: You asked for opinions and you got them, good or bad so grow up yourself. Bring more money than mine, yippie :rolleyes: Mines fast and that ghey looking thing isn't even close to...
If you put the probe in the proper place, you won't be able to get a bit that far in there anyway. All you really need to do to the runners is make sure they are free of casting junk.
I run a hacked 1g Mas with the lower section completely removed, not just the honeycomb but everything. I also run a custom 3" intake. I have things set at 18psi and never hit cut and it used to creep up to 20-22psi before I did my portwok and still no cut. Each car can differ however so try it...
Port the turbine housing also. The turbo seperates and the turbine hosing comes off without removing any lines. Just loosen the band clamp in the middle and pry it apart.
You take the lower honeycomb out of the MAS and remove the silencer and there is no wire splicing required. Go to www.vfaq.com and check out how it's done. It's simple, like this question ;)
Is it legal? No!! It routes anything dumped out the wastegate to the atmosphere rather than back into the exhaust. Less restriction equals a better ability to get rid of the excess exhaust gas in turn eliminating boost creep in most cases.
Did you crush the bov or did you get it crushed. It could be crushed to far and leaking. A t25 is useless over 17psi and inefficient and basicaly nothing more than a hairdryer.
They should be straight down towards the front of the corner light in the fender. I don't have pop up's so they may block the view of the screw. Try putting them up and see if that reveals the location.
Open the hood and look down in the fender area where the lights are located. There should be 1 screw holding them in place. You take the screw out and the light will slide forward and out ;)
Um, the rears are not 6.5's they are 5x7's or 6x9's depending on the year. Hi quality 4's are not hard to come by if you look and cross them over properly. I have 2 6.5's in each door 4's in the dash and in kick panels and 4 Polk tweets in the same location. The 4's are strictly midrange and...
If the leaking onto the board was bad your ecu is probably toast. Put it under a magifying glass and check all the traces and see if any are burned. If so resolder them.
EGT= Exhaust gas temperature. Most of them read from 0-1600 degrees. A bit below 1600 is the max you would ever want to see or your melting down. They are an actual meter with a needle, not a blinky POS like an A/F gauge.
Alright guys. I by no means am a newbie and don't need basic knowledge explained to me and I'm sure John will back that up ;) My point was, you don't NEED 3" exhaust. If your running a monster turbo and are looking for 11's or 10's then I agree but other than that you don't need it.
Alright. All this "you need 3" exhaust" is getting a bit old. 2.5" is proven deep into the 11's so would you guys please tell me why he "needs 3'' exhaust" or anybody else that doesn't plan on running better than 11's for that matter?