Ok. We all try to save money. I get that. However, we aren’t qualified machine shops.There’s more to heads than flatness. Are your guides within spec? Is the flatness within tolerances? Are there invisible cracks? And a whole cornucopia of other things they check for.Next...

Find where the Cam sensor goes into the ECU. Gently touch a probe to each end of the two wires and have someone wiggle them. If you drop continuity, or you have no continuity, then likely that is your problem. New parts have occasionally been bad too. New stands for never ever worked. Get a...

When you say rough, is it a shifter block or is it grinding going into gear? I am not up to date on the latest and greatest lubes, but I have used Mobil 1 oil in my trans for years without incident. Or, if you prefer, GM Synchromesh fluid. Now, that being said, shifter block is more...

Take a good quality multimeter. Set it on the Volts DC scale. Put the black or ground on the battery - post. Check the voltage at the positive post. Crank the car and see what the battery is holding at. Remember, a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts at rest. A battery that is either...

Use a test light to see if you lost the 12 volts to the injectors or the drive circuit. That way you can choose a course of action. Check ALL of your fuses. If memory serves me correctly, there's an engine fuse that should be looked at. Let us know what you find so we know which way to...

Not likely an issue. If you can, and assuming it's not a wideband you can watch the o2 sensor and see where it is running. If it is staying consistently above or below 450 mv you could have an issue. It should dance back and forth. If you have an air/fuel ratio meter, it should be around...

Taxes and bad harmonic dampers. Two sure things in life. Make sure no parts of the shredded belt get behind and up into the timing belt. That would be bad mojo. If you are unsure, you might have to take off the cover just to cover your assets. Better that than the nasally whine you could...

You have to have three things for an engine to run. Compression, fuel, and spark at the "right time" Any one of those missing and you are not going to run. If you have wet plugs, likely you've lost ignition. Get a 12 volt test light and pull an injector connector. Hook your test light on...

My all time favorite theft deterrent is the one on the SUX 6000 from RoboCop. A few of those and they wouldn't be stealing cars. I also have toyed with the straightened treble hooks that could be fired up through the seat with air cylinders when someone tries to start the car with the wrong...

Hi.SRS or supplemental restraint system, can set a light for a lot of reasons. Like was said before the clock spring could be damaged. I've seen the sensors on the front core support be bad too. Anything that the SRS module senses as a malfunction will set it off. Do the right thing...

Just out of curiosity, what was the "fix" ?

Assuming the transmission is ok, I would check where the cables hook to the trans to see if maybe the brackets came loose. If not, look at the cables to see if one had failed. You can try to shift the transmission after unhooking the cables to verify if it's on the trans side or not. One...

Without actually hearing the noise, it would be difficult to respond. However, these transmissions are usually bad for input bearings and counter gear bearings. If either starts going bad, and they will. You can encounter problems. Are there any howling/growling noises? Being as it goes...

Anything worth doing is worth doing right. It sounds like a daily driver. I would keep it as close to stock as possible. Anyone can tell you that the more you mod it, the more you will be tweaking and adjusting. However, it all depends on your patience/money.Good Luck

If you are sure it's bled right, and you are not losing fluid, it can only be the master cylinder. All else being correct I assume. Sometimes, it's real difficult to get all the air out. But if you have a pedal and are losing the pedal occasionally, I would look back to the master cylinder...

Well, that would indicate a lean condition. Assuming it's a 1 volt sensor. Anything above 470 give or take indicates rich. Anything below that is lean. Now, if it moves when you are driving and sitting lean while idling, It could indicate a vacuum leak or something of that ilk.Take care

#36 Timing Belt VFAQ.15 to .18Good Luck

Actually it's not tension you measure. It's the distance between the tensioner and the tensioner arm. It's very difficult to do in the vehicle. Now, speaking for myself and myself only. I installed everything and adjusted the tensioner until the lock pin which holds the tensioner pin down...

Well, if you are in doubt, the first thing is I would quit running the engine until you know for sure. It may be inconvenient, but so is pulling the head.Go to VFAQ and see what they have to say. If I replace anything in that area, I replace it all. You cannot and I repeat, cannot afford...

I would get some coolant dye, rent or purchase a black light that illuminates the dye in the anti freeze. Run the engine until it is at temp, and let it sit. Take the black light and see if you can see any green on the engine or engine bay. If you are losing coolant and it's not coming out...

I would jack the car up, support on jackstands. For your safety. Wiggle the drive shaft around and see if you see any unusual movement. Now, if the cups are dry, you can still chirp and may not move.You can always change the joints.Good Luck

Coolant temp sensor is registering probably -40 to the computer. That will make the engine run pig rich. Either the sensor is bad, or something in the connection to it. If the pcm does not see a temp of around 180, it won't go into closed loop. That's the point when the computer takes over.

This is a double post, but I'll try. Most likely an improperly installed throw out bearing. Did you replace it? If not, then likely it could be a bad throw out bearing. Especially if the clutch pedal when released makes the noise go away.Check it out and let us know...

Check your injectors for 12 volts key on engine off. If you have that, using a test light, hook it to the positive side of your battery. Crank engine over and observe the light. Steady on or off is bad. Winking is good. You can also go to the parts house and get a cheap mechanic's...

ISC's when they get older much like us, tend to respond to changes slower than they should. They have to move for a living and get clogged up with carbon and such. Sometimes they make a check engine light and sometimes they don't.The second situation could be fuel filter, air...

Find a smooth parking lot. Turn your wheels to the right and slowly accelerate. If you hear a click click click upon take off, it's likely the cv joints. The boots do not have to be torn for the joint to be bad. Be sure to turn the wheels to the left and try again. If it goes away when you...

As was said above, check the tps. You can use an oscilloscope to sweep the tps to check for drop outs. If it's severe, you can even use a multimeter You may have a check engine light. If so, have it scanned at an Autozone or some place like that. They do it for free. Just don't expect them...

OK, at this point you need a service manual with a schematic. Consider it like driving from New York to LA with no map. You can do it, but it's much easier if you know ahead of time which roads to take. The same applies with electrical repairs. I've been doing this professionally for many...

I assume that is a viable question. In answering, it can indeed be rust or perhaps a bad sector on the commutator or any other numerous things that can go bad. In diagnosis you verify everything with volts, pressures if required and ohms and amps if need be.We can only offer...

You are correct in where. However under no circumstance trust your eyes. Use a multimeter always. I have done the same thing and paid the price of losing my mind "assuming a fuse was good"Get a schematic and a multimeter and once you find the problem and fix it, you have bragging...

You might have blown a mega fuse at the battery. You could also have a bad connection at the battery. You probably at this point are going to have to either break out a multimeter or take it to a shop. Check your fuses first though.

Do you have any logs? In an unmodified ecm, 16.5 is what was nominally considered max boost without hitting fuel cut. Check your injector on time under the "fuel cut' event. Post some numbers and perhaps someone can look and pinpoint the problem.Good Luck

Again, if you have no fuel to the rail, check for 12 volts and a good ground to the fuel pump. If you have both, then yes, the pump can go bad overnight. You can even drive to the grocery store and when you get back in your "perfectly" running vehicle, it won't start.Verify whether you...

If you are fortunate, it's only loose. If you're like me, you will likely have to replace the intake gasket.Good Luck

So, I assume the engine ran before the transplant? When you say no fuel, you mean the injectors aren't pulsing? That is the one place where spark and fuel do come together. If the pcm doesn't see a crank signal, you will not have an injector pulse. See if you have 12 volts on your...

Pressurizing the system should not present a problem. Remember however when you re-install the timing belt that you synchronize the rear balance shaft. Also, replace all the shaft seals. These can be a real hassle later if you forget to replace one of them.Good Luck

Good Job guys.

I would have the computer scanned for codes. It appears to be happening during closed loop. Which is when the computer takes over and it quits running on pre-set parameters.Pull those and let us know what they are if any exist. Good Luck

I would be curious as to "WHY" the bearing spun in the first place. Cause and effect. The spun bearing is the effect. I would be looking for the cause. If you consider your engine an investment and are serious about it staying together after the repair, I would do a complete go through of...

OK, here's how to do a combustion gas check. Put the solution in the bottle with the rubber bulb on it. The solution is blue. Put the rubber stopper in your radiator with the engine running, being careful not to get burned. Make sure the coolant is a little low so you don't draw up anti...

If your clutch slips under load, try re-adjusting your rod closer to the floor. It should engage somewhere near the middle of the travel. Do this first. Just don't do a lot of things until we can sort out the core problem. If all else fails, go back to the beginning and do the simple...

If push comes to shove, you can rig up a fuel pressure gauge at the banjo fitting and monitor the actual pressure. If your pressure stays up, then likely another problem exists. Getting the adapters to fit the banjo and the gauge will be somewhat of a scavanger hunt.Good Luck

Damn!!!! Guess I'll be looking for a newer trans also. Glad I browsed this one. Thanks

Just for grins and chuckles, when you say you have fuel, do you mean the fuel pump is supplying fuel to the engine? You might get out your handy dandy test light and check to see if the pcm is modulating the injectors. You should have 12 volts koeo. Key on engine off. If that's good, put...

As a rule, white smoke is water. blue smoke is oil and black smoke is fuel. great big gobs of white smoke usually is a head gasket or God forbid, busted head. Do a combustion gas leak check in your cooling system. If you have exhaust gas in your radiator, then there you have it. It's a...

If you don't have combustion gas in your cooling system, and the water pump is verified to be ok, you might look at your radiator. It is 12 years old after all if it hasn't been serviced or replaced.

You have my friend what is commonly known as shifter block. Several methods which never completely repaired the problem are. GM synchromesh fluid. Get the shift enhancer which is a little bottle which may or may not still be available from GM. You can change the synchros probably to no...

Well, several things could come into play here. First, make sure you have 12 volts to the coils and the injectors. Does your tach move when you crank? Does the fuel pump prime up when you turn the key on? 2g's nt have a little relay called an ASD relay. Your car is more like a Chrysler...

Cas possibly. If memory serves me correct. I'm a 1g kind of guy. Make sure all your powers and grounds are good and tight first.Good Luck

Well, I would check the classifieds in here first. Then I would call a salvage yard to see if they have a "hot line" This links them to several thousand other salvage yards. Be sure to have the numbers off of your old one so they can compare.They are out there...