The black wire is F and the brown wire is a L. The big red wire is S which you don't use. Your a 2g so hook the black wire to switched 12v and the brown to your black/yellow wire.

Don't mean to thread jack, but do you need a switched source to f on the 1g as well? It didn't mention it in the swap thread for 1g and I'm about to wire mine up.

Don't know the big deal with the welds. It was already stated that his welder had a break down and wasn't working properly and that it was put together for viewing purposes. I'm sure the final product will look much better than that and that the welds will be professional. Keep working on it...

Here's what I found searching yahoo.http://www.teamxxxracing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=655Available Options: Flange Type: Select OneStockT3T4 Wastegate Option: None38 mm Split Collar Ring (+$30.00)

I just used the bearings out of my old rollerblades.

Also try napa, autozone, or any other autoparts store. Just measure the bottom and go ask. I've had to replace them after my dad messed them up during install before.

Well if you have enough voltage at the starter and its still clicking like that, then it definately sounds like a bad solenoid.

That's a little low on the battery voltage. Should be just over 12v. Check your grounds. You might not have enough cranking amps. Mine wouldn't turn over with it that low, it just clicked. I had to put jumpers on it and start it off my other car. Then found out my alternator had gone out.

I haven't tested it yet because I'm waiting on new tie rod ends, but I'll post up when I get it back under the car. The assembly itself is a little different, but very similar. If you have a factory service manual it'll be pretty easy to do. With the seal out, it does seem to move easier, but...

There is a seal inside the rack that pumps the fluid. Thats what makes the pressure and pushes the fluid. It causes resistence, so thats why I took mine apart and cut that seal out. I filled it with grease which I think will work better than the fluid anyways and plugged the holes. No looped...

Get new ones. Or if you can afford it, upgrade the injectors all together.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/244467-holset-hx-35-oiling.html

My oil pressure does that. I'm not real worried about it, because I know I could use new rings. Where is the smoke coming from and what color and smell? Could be lots of things without more info.....

91-94 should be the same. Check part numbers. Both are 1gb's and nt. Only difference might be for auto tranny or abs. Check that. When I need a part like that, I go to dsmsource and put up a want ad and just wait for the replies and choose the best deal. Hope that helps.

That thing is always coming loose. My fwd used to do that and now my awd. I can't keep it hooked up. I have a faze aftermarket installed now. Get the autometer and don't worry about the factory piece. It's worthless anyways.

Check your tps.

I'm working on mine right now. Just got the rack back together, but gonna put new inner and outer tie rods on before reinstalling it. I did the depowering mod from the flying miata site that was in one of the many other posts about manual steering. I'll see if it actually helps or not. I...

Sounds like a big boost leak. I blew my coupler almost off my turbo, and it would only boost to 5psi.

What shape are your coil packs in?

Very nice. Maybe you'll have the production run ready by the time i'm ready(can afford) to replace my piece of junk.

I just went ahead and bought the fluidampr. Anyone with high miles on one or anything bad to say about them? I just hope its worth the extra funds.

I have two from ebay in push mode on mine. They do the trick.

You don't hear much about the evo on here because it isn't dsm. There is a lot of similarities though, and if you can, buy it. I would love to have an evo dd and turn my dsm into race only.

My harmonic balancer came apart the other day. I started having some weird problems, and at first thought my water pump, alternator, or ps was going out. It started flickering lights on my dash and started to overheat, it also started to chirp real loud. After further diagnosis I found that...

Put a fuel level guage in to match the other two and it would look alot better, but props for just going for it. Most people don't have enough guts to do that.

Cool guys, thanks for the help.

No, the vc would be pulling air from the intake which is before the maf in blow through mode which would be unmetered. I'm just wondering if anybody running a blow through setup has problems with idle or tuning due to this, or if it will be okay to just hook it up as normal.

I've been reading the stupid pcv thread and I've searched, but can't really find anything about using catch cans with maft and blow through. Do you guys just run the catch cans like you would normally and if so does this pose a problem with unmetered air being pulled into the vc from the...

I agree with changing the fuel filter. It is a cheap easy fix if so. Have you put any heet or anything in to see if maybe the fuel was bad? I had water in my fuel recently and my car idled funny and would die. I started looking at all the hard stuff and then my dad told me to put some heet...

I had that problem before. It turned out to be leaking compacitors in my ecu. Don't know if yours have been changed, but mine leaked on some chips which caused the fuel pump relay to turn on and off. I've read that is a common problem. I changed my compacitors, but the damage was already...

I agree with the alternator problem. I don't see how a fuel pump can cause lights to flicker. It definately sounds like an electrical problem and since in didn't start until you change the alternator, that seems like the obvious start point. It could be charging but skipping or hanging a bit...

Ok, I fixed the hard start problem. Both wires were broken on the coolant sensor to the ecu and one was to the a/c sensor. I also adjusted my biss and it actually idles normal sometimes. I'm still have a problem with that though. I got it set and then I drove it. When I got back it was...

My car is hard to start when it is cold. Doesn't matter what temperature it is outside. It will fire off then die and I'll have to keep doing that until it finally takes off. Kind of like a carbed vehicle that isn't getting gas or is flooded. It seems that the engine gets warmed enough and...