Nope. You're stuck between limping around on 91 craptane, or shelling out $6-9/gal for 100-110.

No. If your screw is stripped, it needs to be replaced (or carefully helicoiled if it's the threads in the throttle body). Not too expensive to replace, even from the dealer. Replace the o-ring at the same time.What does your vacuum read at idle, assuming you have an aftermarket boost/vac...

Damn... what's up with these? Kinda spammy if they keep going whenever a new one is added. If it's automatic, perhaps a subforum would be in order.Also, these are already sold off. Damn.

I'll have to get ahold of my former navigator. He had a sheaf of mapped routes for a lot of local roads that are fun to drive on, and beautifully scenic.. he'd use the outings to expand his photography portfolio. :) Also had a number that we'd have to plan ahead for, as we'd be driving about 2-3...

Canyonrunning. Mountain driving. Hillclimb. Technical road course. I use the first of those most times, to describe a spirited drive along a narrow, twisty road, usually located in some backwoods area with minimal to zero traffic in the interests of safety. Which is why I do not frequent a...

The parking lot where we stopped before we went up the last leg. Couple of us were yelling at you, figured you were done for the night and just decided to head straight home. Think somebody even flashed their headlights, guess you didn't see.. we were all there though. Figured you were just...

'Touge' is also defined as one of the easiest methods to spot a ricetard when you enjoy driving canyon roads. Anyone who refers to it as 'touge' when discussing it falls into that category, and needs a verbal b****slap, if not a more literal one. Gets on my asshairs about as badly as the 'JDM'...

Gotta get there early and cordon off a DSM section if we end up going again. :DThe run was very scenic.. was a clear night, so had a great view of the stars and the city lights. Everybody else cut out painfully early though... stayed out until 5am, myself. Caught a bit more crap from the other...

Wondered what was going on a couple of Tuesdays back... grabbed some Panda just before they closed, saw the metric buttload of Hondas, decided to head home and eat rather than stick around.Good to see a meet in this area though, aside from the Evo meet. Any particular place the DSMers tend to...

Easiest way would be to look at your wiring harness. There's a pinout up on VFAQ for the 1Gs, the only difference between 90-91 on that front is that two wires are swapped. Can probably look and figure out if they were switched, or if it's more likely to be the casing. I believe that there are...

Actually, I'm planning to do this swap as well. It seems like it would make little difference, but apparently switching from the olive-top '90 optical CAS to a 93-94 black-top Hall unit helps reduce or even eliminate idle misfires/sputters, as well as some WOT 'stumble' issues, along with...

Yes, they tested the hood vent at a dead stop. I never said that when the car is stopped that standard convection would not allow hot air to exit that type of vents (after all, with no other factors of course hot air will rise, pulling cold air up from the ground under the car to fill the void)...

Mine does the same thing. Put succinctly, our cars tend to sound like sewing machines, even fully built. What weight oil are you running? 20W50 seems to make it a bit louder on mine, as compared to 10W30. Though I also have a secondary rattle from the A/C fan lacking its bottom bolt (easier to...

Ah, thought you had already called RRE. Was just over there earlier (checking my tranny/t-case/rear diff fluids) and they do have them in stock. They make solid parts, and ship quick (usually mailed out same-day before 4pm, when UPS shows up) for distance orders.

Unfortunately, from reading those first two articles that you had listed, Mavisky, they were not using their manometer to measure pressure drop *in front of* the intercooler/radiator as compared to inside the engine bay, but rather either comparing the pressure inside the engine bay to that...

Because chopping into your stock wiring harness when there is a plug-and-play adapter available for relatively cheap is more than a little... well... stupid. Especially if the one doing the chopping might not have experience soldering splices.

I'm just curious how you tested how much air is coming out of the rear vent? At idle, the pressure system that I'd been talking about is non-existant, as the car isn't in motion. At that point, standard convection (hot air rises, cool air sinks) takes over, and obviously the hood-vents will...

The method I was told by RRE was to do one or two hard second or third gear pulls (not launches) at full boost to help seat the rings, then drive it with as little boost as possible for as long as I could stand it. Ended up going 3000 miles that way, oil changes every thousand (also at their...

If it doesn't have to be Magnus specifically (aka: just need the CAS adapter harness), then RRE sells them as well.Kinda makes sense that you wouldn't be able to get ahold of anybody, on a holiday weekend, much less in the middle of the night. Relax until Monday at the very least (or at least...

Not to derail the thread, but do a search for 'roller paint job'.. have a buddy who followed the Mopar roller paint job prep instructions, and just lightly misted his front bumper (off the car) from a foot or two away with a rattlecan instead of rollering it... came out with an awesome result...

The vacuum line being pinched would again read less vacuum. A boost/vac gauge exposed to open air should read at zero. It's calibrated to an atmospheric normal. When you apply vacuum (negative pressure as compared to ambient normal), it moves into the vacuum portion of the gauge. When you apply...

I'd really recommend that JC Whitney part instead... it'll cost you about the same ($20 per side), given the '$10' H4 replacements up on eBay all cost around $45 for shipping, and come with nearly-unusable bulbs. They also all have clear (un-textured) lenses, which makes it starkly obvious that...

Yeah, just get it rebuilt (or get your cash back if you can). So long as there's no wheel damage to the compressor, turbine, or housings.. should be salvageable. Didn't you check the turbo for shaft play before you put it on?

A vacuum leak will make you read LESS vacuum, not more. A vacuum leak you'll show 10-15in/Hg with an average leak. You're getting way too MUCH vacuum (30in/Hg)... FAR more than our cars are supposed to provide. Again, timing being off sounds like the only thing I can think of, assuming the gauge...

Just do a lot of suspension work, and do it right. On a 1G GSX, make sure to replace the half-rubber portion of the rear control arms with SS inserts with Heim joints, or fab up the arms directly with the joints if you know how. For all years, stiffen the rear up as much as possible. Until you...

Also make sure that your MBC isn't on backward. I've met a few people who installed them that way, and couldn't figure out why they were boost 'spiking' to 30psi (the limit of their gauge) and the car ran like complete ass. Wrong-way-round, it acts as a check valve and lets no pressure through...

It's unfortunately somewhere between quite difficult and impossible (leaning toward the latter) to retrofit a projector assembly into a sealed beam headlamp, as on the '90 and '91 model year (as the OP's car profile says he is). Possibly with a 1Gb or a 1Gb-swapped 1Ga... otherwise, the H4...

DiamondStar, be aware that putting HIDs on a 1Ga is illegal in CA, and it's extremely obvious when you do it to a 1Ga with the stock popup light assemblies. Actually, it's also illegal to put on the H4 conversion kits that are all over eBay, as CVC requires that if a car came stock with sealed...

Manifold vacuum that high sounds like either jumped timing, or a broken vac gauge. A boost leak will not affect your vacuum. A vacuum leak will drop it (and 15in/Hg is low vacuum unless you're cammed or well above sea level). Only thing that will *actually* raise it, especially that high will be...

Again, pull out those plugs first and drop in a set of NGKs or Densos. Our cars dislike 'bargain' plugs, and the ones you should be using cost a whopping $12 for a set of four. Test the plug wires with an ohmmeter, make sure they're actually good. Then test the resistances on the coilpack to...

Excellent! Glad you got it sorted. :D

Our cars sound like sewing machines at idle, for the most part. Even with the 3G revised lifters, there's really no way to cure that.

Yes, it's needed. And the only way to get it is from the dealer, with the specific VIN of the car it came installed in stock. They may insist on inputting it on-site and refuse to give you the code though.. just try another dealership in that case.

Er, the Mirage AWD swap isn't exactly 'easy' by any stretch of the imagination. There's pictures and an explanation of the process up on turbomirage.com but the guy is going to be selling DVDs and a how-to kit at some point in the future. Apparently the entire rear end needs suspension refabbing...

If it's just the thermostat, Autozone carries them (for the 1G anyway) for like $12. And yeah, Norco is awesome, and the parts manager is cool. Apparently they're the DSM distribution hub for the west coast... if a local dealer has to order a part, chances are that it's coming from Norco. Pain...

Sexy as hell, Mavisky. :DStill wondering if that old thread with that kid 'making' inset popup replacements for the 1Ga ever actually went anywhere... would be awesome to just bolt in a full dual-HID bi-xenon setup under a plastic cover (kinda like the later-model 3KGTs) and actually be able...

Yeah, the larger pumps really suffer (and the stock pump does too, actually) from the stock wiring. If you run the car and turn on a turn signal, you can hear the pitch of the whine change as the light blinks. Which is kind of ridiculous.There are notes/tables on pump flow up on VFAQ... short...

Well, the long tensioner bracket 'arm' just bolts onto the side of the block. The lower pivot point is cast in. I'm assuming that you've tightened the tensioner arm bracket in the meantime. :) Also, make sure that you have the proper bolt... I've seen some people who just threw on a too-small...

You need to leave enough so that the reducer couplers have pipe to be clamped down on, but still enough space for the air to follow the coupler flow. I'd put the IC piping on, then lay the assembled couplers+MAS next to where you want it to go... probably leave an extra inch of pipe on both...

I'd just stick with the 255-HP. Okay, so the AFPR is good, no problem with the rising rate adjustment there. Meaning the pump may be suspect. Might be silly to ask, but have you done the rewire? Is your alternator putting out enough juice? It's running okay on the stock FPR because the FPR is...

Hmm. Did EDM 1Gas come stock with the H4 retrofit 'upgrade' that seems to be so popular over here? Heard noises along those lines, but so far it's only hearsay.

Mine takes a while to start first thing in the morning as well, though I'm fairly certain it's because of my Aeromotive AFPR and Walbro fuel pump. The stock Denso pump has an integral check valve, while the Walbro (apparently) does not, which I can only assume allows the fuel to back out of the...

It's on the firewall, right next to the stock battery box location. I believe there's only one that it'll plug into properly. And make sure your CAS isn't 180 off... if you set the engine at TDC, there's a little dot visible through one of the grooves in the end of the intake cam. One side of...

Assuming you're meaning the square-ended pivot bolt (not the tensioner bracket/assembly), mine has zero play... sleeving the pivot would probably fix the problem. I'd call a few machine shops and see if they can do the work, or see if there's any way you can rig a full-on jig to keep it aligned...

Supposedly it's the 2G seven-bolts that have a supposed crankwalk 'problem', on the level of one in three eventually developing it... 95+. 1G seven-bolts (92.5-94) do not suffer from the problem, and can be considered virtually on the same level as the six-bolts, aside from smaller stock head...

Just don't paint your exhaust manifold with that 500F paint, or it'll be likely to catch fire, given that 1500F temperatures aren't unheard of going through there.

Well obviously your P/W is going to increase after an AFPR install if you were previously running it on the Walbro with a stock FPR. It overruns, fuel pressure comes up, injectors flow more at a lower pulse width. Switching to the Aeromotive (and properly setting your base fuel pressure) simply...

The pressure source for your EBC should NOT be teed off the BOV/CBV line, it should be coming from the compressor outlet elbow. Where is your boost gauge tapped in? Most people do it from the manifold side of the fuel pressure regulator/solenoid line for simplicity.You CAN hit 30psi without...

And closer to the throttle body than the BOV.Er... and the 3" GM MAS and reducer couplers is closer to 6-10" long... it's a considerable part of the pipe that has to go away.

Plus the center diff doesn't have the room to upgrade... 90 owners have to buy a 91 case just to get something better put on. Theoretically, the '90 gears should be stronger than the later years, but in practice they break just as often.I'm just wondering how the hell he has his AWD hooked up...