My friends black is around 650 at 37psi right now. Only 8:1 motor tho. If you're at max flow you're at max flow and only gonna find gains in the tune via fuel and timing adjustments or cam timing adjustments. So, finish the tune and hit the track. Either way, congrats breaking the 600 mark and...

Finish the tune and turn the boost up. That's where I'd go...

Spark firing order is probably off.

What boost level are you running this at lowel? You used to live in the pnw didn't you?

That's solid power man! Not that it matters much but what correction factor was that? I could be, and probably am, behind on things but I don't remember seeing higher than 131mph on that turbo.

What dyno did you put it on this time?

Yea, I saw somebody put it on the link board but I didn't recognize the dyno software so I'm curious what dyno it was on.

Attachments won't load. What'd you post?

About .019 unless you have a cdi.

I don't bash boss and the likes because of the price point. I bash it because I've been in sales for over 20 years, managed the audio/video department of a future shop that did the 2nd highest volume in the company, done two stints managing local high end audio shops, so my exposure to these...

You can tie the factory amp in if you find an amp integration harness. Cd changer should be obsolete if your Sony has a USB port.

The gears are probably stripped. For what you'd spend on the repairs you can buy a new one. However, buying another boss would be a waste of money. Boss, dual and other super cheap brands are complete garbage. A good flip out 7" is the pioneer 7500 but it'll set you back $500 and if you want to...

Do you have iscposition selected in the logged and displayed values?

I'll be interested to see what it actually puts down on the DJ. I've looked at countless dyno sheets comparing peoples experience on MD vs DJ and most are within 10%. AMS says that their MD reads exactly 8% lower than their DJ. With all the variables that can be programmed into the MD...

The head doesn't care how many bolts are in the crankshaft. It's the same gasket. As long as the head is straight and not warped you should be fine. I would have fresh o-rings installed in the head though. Same thing for the block, just make sure it's clean and straight. The composite...

It's 88mm (stock stroke for 2.0) and 100mm for 2.3l stroker motor (100mm crank in 2.0 block). If you have a 2.4 block the 100mm is stock stroke. The added displacement will yield more torque.

You can mount it to the firewall. Having the shortest possible vacuum line running to it is the best practice.

Oh, so you're building a straight up 2.0, not a 2.0LR, got it.

Make sure you find the part number for 100mm pistons. That link is showing 88mm. Before you order anything I think it's worth putting a call in to john at force engineering to see what he can do on the exact pistons you need. 22mm pin, 7'ish cc dish, HD. It might be $100 more but that's really...

No no no, off the shelf pistons did that. The HD pistons are rock solid. Went with 22mm pin and 10.5:1 for my 2.3. You won't be disappointed.

Honestly, well worth the $740... http://www.forceengineered.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=CWDSM Worlds better than an off the shelf piston!! Sure, it's a couple hundred more, but that's a drop in the bucket when it's your motor we're talking about. You'll be happy you did it. My off the...

You are not going to run a .020 head gasket in the real world when you build the motor so why bother skewing the numbers via that method? Makes no sense. If you take an off the shelf Wiseco stroker piston with an advertised compression of 8.5:1 and run it with an 88mm crank it'll be roughly...

You don't modify head gasket thickness to get the desired compression, you order pistons with the desired dish. If you don't want the wait time for a custom piston then you just get the closest thing available off the shelf.

No, stroker piston compression ratio's are based off a 100mm stroke. You will need to calculate the actual compression with an 88mm stroke. What compression are you shooting for? What head gasket are you going with, what deck height? All of those things are going to come into play and more...

ForcePower, that's a good point to make. I was pretty much going on the assumption that there were no issues with the installation or the tune causing the failure.

I'd look into a different machinist if the work they're doing isn't allowing a MLS to seal. Get good surfaces that are straight and have an Ra in the 20's or better and a Felpro MLS. That's what I would do. Good luck.

Looks like it was run with bolts that were too long?? Personally I'd send that to the scrap pile and buy a new one.

Call Tim @ TMZ Performance if you want a replacement flywheel. You do need the shorter flywheel bolts as well. Post pictures of the flywheel in question so we can see how bad it is. You might not even need a new one. Yes, you can use your OEM throw out bearing but you will need a clearanced...

Yep, hit the head stud passages with 1/2" to fit the 12mm hardware. Besides that, it's just the normal stroker clearances on the block and main caps.

No you shouldn't be. Unplug the arc2 and just run the cop if possible and see if your unit had a failure while sitting. I'm gonna guess you need a new tach adapter box or everything is working as it should and it's a problem with the instrument panel.

The gears appear to be zero'd out. You set them just like normal cam gears. Dowel pins up, marks lined up across the head. Even if they are not zero'd out, you set them just the same with the pins up and marks lined up across the head.

You probably have a fat boost leak. Do a test and find it.

Sounds like a bad solenoid regardless of testing good. I'd lean towards the test being performed on a good day when it was wanting to start.

That seems low enough to possibly be the root of your problem. Dumb question, but what's your battery voltage read?

Do you have a way to test the voltage when the key is in the start position? That's when it needs to see the proper voltage.

The signal/trigger wire is the small gauge wire that hooks to the starter.

Starter solenoid or the trigger wire?

Good luck finding the recirc fitting that replaces the trumpet outlet. If you have a machinist and a small chunk of aluminum you can fairly easily make one. I'd probably just buy a new bov though unless you want it for the old school factor. I used to have that same valve myself but switched...

It's not on the pedal, it's on the pedal assembly. There is a tab that protrudes off the pedal to contact the switch. Your switch is probably gone so you're just looking for the threaded boss on the assembly where it used to be.

Yea that should be for cruise iirc and the safety switch on the bottom of the clutch pedal stroke. If it's bypassed the switch probably isn't there but you can look at the pedal and see the tab that would have pressed it and find the switch location and wires.

The switch is down on the pedal assembly and bypassing it is simply hooking the wires together. The problem is likely elsewhere in the system but I'd check the bypass connection first before chasing anything else. I had one a few weeks ago that was doing what yours is doing and it was the...

Is your clutch safety switch active or bypassed?

It will control boost better than a stock internal gate. As for the spring, pretty tough to tell unless you pull the spring out and see what it is. Have you modified the exhaust housing to run an external gate?

That sucks. Mine only have about 300 miles on them and I don't mind switching to the Ohlins so I would be up for selling them.

Hotbits are great as suggested above. I've got a set of JIC FLT-A2 coilovers from Muller and I love them. Not sure if he does that setup anymore though.

Depending on the chip, it may or may not re-programmable so you might need a fresh chip to start with. You can hand write the maps from the ecmlink tune and manually transfer the areas needed to write a new chip. If you're asking if there's some easy way to essentially copy/paste the ecmlink...

That is the sealing ring. Really tough to tell from the pics how it will fit but as long as it's not hanging too low it should clear the piping. Changing the lower pipe isn't that hard though so it's worth a shot to mock it up.

It looks legit, I have one of the same HKS gates sitting around. You're not missing anything on the top. That's a vacuum port where you can screw a fitting into when you use both ports. You are missing the fire ring on the bottom though. I can take a picture of the part when I get home but...

What step height did you have the flywheel machined to?

Yes. Just call fp and purchase the exhaust housing setup for internal gate and the internal gate.