Yes, you could.

Lots of things can lead to knock - lean afr, over advanced ignition, dinged pistons, carbon buildup, etc....Post a log.

The rear drums are regular bendix style brakes.GS brakes (and suspension) are identical to GS-T's. All GS's came with discs in the rear.

If you can't get it sorted, log it while it's killing itself and post the log.

We try not to mix them up, but it's not a real big deal. You'll be alright.

Don't run both - that is unless you never intend on being able to lower the fuel pressure below 50. If that is the case, then you don't need an aftermarket FPR then.

Could also be the regulator or the wiring.

No, the 2.0 will only stroke to 2.2L. The 2.4 uses a different block.

Won't work.If you want wider gears, look into the 3.55:1 differential.

No, Cory. 2.0L 1g N/T DSM's used the 4g63 engine.

Boosting an engine's intake is largely an isometric process. Increasing the pressure of the air charge by any degree without increasing the volume must cause an increase in temperature. See: Ideal Gas Law for the basics.We typically say that more than 5psi of boost on a 420a is dangerous...

Ya, because every boosted 420a explodes when it sees boost. We only guide people into how to do this because we're evil, and want to see more explosions.@OP: Just be weary of the turbocharger itself. eBay chinese turbos have a bad reputation for eating themselves. Some work fine forever...

I'm not sure if I'm understanding your statement properly - the difference between short- and long-blocks isn't actually in the block itself, but rather groupings of parts. A short-block consists of the block and it's internals. A long-block consists of a short-block with the head and the head's...

Why is this thread still open? It was fail from the beginning and rapidly found deeper, unexplored levels of fail.Not just the OP - the majourity of you people. Every other post was a rule violation....

srt4 rods and pistons, cloud car block and crank, 420a head.You will need to modify your oil pan, rewire the injectors and coil and ~270cc injectors on stock ECU, and fab your own passenger mount... I think thats about it. 2gnt.com is the best source for 2.4 info.

How classy.

I suppose I should get to working on the 420a more often. I was thinking of the 4g63. :coy:edit: @my dreamt dsm: The printscreen button. I believe in Windows it copy's the screen to the clipboard.

I call it a "locking bolt", since that is it's function. Others seem to know exactly what I mean when I used the term.There is nothing special about that bolt, you could get a similar bolt from a hardware store. And no, I don't happen to know the bolts dimensions or pitch off hand.

Oh sorry, my statement was directed at the people who would give non-answers.

The GIMP's power is in its plugins. GIMP Plugin Registry | A repository of optional extensions for the GIMP.IMO, people that aren't aware of it's plugin system or those that expect it to be some sort of PS clone, tend to be the ones that think it sucks.

The only change in frontal area would be from the difference of exposed tire. Frontal area is geometric, and doesn't change because of its altitude.Frontal area is not the only deciding factor is calculating drag, though it is a very important one. There are other effects which affect the...

A good running factory 420a should pull pretty smoothly and easily from 80 to 100. See YouTube.Toss the wing and subs, raise the vehicle to allow some air to get under it, and fix your motor, then goto your local circle track or something and see how much your top-end improves.

I agree with you completely, Glow, that now is the perfect time to build and that he'll probably get the boost bug. But - you've stated several times already in this thread that fact, and by your admission in PM's to him as well. I'm sure he gets the point.I'd say we've all gotten the point...

No, you're trying to get him to do things YOUR way.@OP Factory internals with a proper fuel setup will hold 8psi reliably.While it is a good idea to have a motor than can handle some knock, the better idea would be to just not knock in the first place. Find out why you blew the last...

Pistons don't typically just up and break for no reason. I'd recommend that you try to discover what caused your stuff to break in the first place.

SAFC on a boosted 420a is only useful in awkward and convoluted setups - these setups are usually best avoided.

^ This is absolutely correct.

Back of the block under intake manifold - it's the middle sensor, between the OPSU and the CKP.

Do you have a multimeter? You're going to want to get one. (cheap ones are OK for most things you'll be doing on a car) It'll make your life (and ours, if we're to help you) so much easier. If you don't know how to use one, it's worth taking the time to learn.

Simplest solution is to just cut the block to accept the 96+ bearings, or you can order a second set of 96+ bearings, then you'll have enough.

Title is awesome :)All above recommendation are valid. Do them. Also, your profile lists that you have a Wally 255 - be sure that this is a 255HP, GSS342. It should be stamped onto the body of the pump itself.

MegaSquirt doesn't follow OBD protocols. This may be an automatic fail if your tester plugs in his reader and gets nothing.

Pillowball shock mounts on a 2g only act to firmly mount the shock to the chassis, and take the place of the upper bushing in the hat. Camber cannot be adjusted on a 2g at the hat, like would be possible on vehicles with McPherson struts such as the 1g. 2g's use multilink suspension at all four...

You can make your own rear kit with large washers and longer bolts. If the drop is moderate, then you'll be fine with the bit of negative camber up front. You'll want to get an alignment again after installing the rear camber kit.Search for "DIY rear camber"

OMG thread revival! I know this is not specific to the original topic, but it does answer this part of it.@ScottI did resolve the problem awhile ago where it was difficult to keep the doors on the 1g unlocked. It turned out to be that the locking linkage was bent, causing it to be shorter...

The fuel level sender has everything to do with the reading on your gauge. It has nothing to do with fuel delivery.

Do a compression or leak-down test to verify, but as others have alluded to it's likely damaged rings or piston.Thats cylinder #3 on the 420a.

The "best" way to go above ~8psi would be to use MegaSquirt, with a AFPR (instead of the 12:1) and larger injectors.

@Primestick I didn't direct it at anyone, specifically. What I did do though, is misinterpret/misread "I never said it wasnt N/A sroked... i was aksing why others implied that stroking it some how made it not the same motor." as.. I dunno... something else.I have had a nap since then, and am...

I'm so bored. You will see. For anyone that may not understand what stroking and N/A imply, and how the terms can interact read on - for anyone else, please be on your way:The stroke of an engine is the distance between TDC and BDC, and is set solely by the crankshaft. Using the word "stoke"...

Ball bearing turbo's do generally spool much faster than their journal bearing counterparts, but a lot of that has to do with wheel design as well. Garrett makes some good turbo's, and I'd never tell anybody to not use one, but do take a second look at the Holset turbo's. They spool very quickly...

@Cammus: Second post of this very tread. There is info and tips throughout this very short thread.

98 and 99 have the same ECU pinouts; a 98 ECU will work in a 99, and visa versa.Otherwise, the pintouts changed every year.

The factory 420a head gasket is MLS.

Specifically, what info do you want to know?Most of the information we have is on Howells site.

I agree with Josh - you seem to pretty much have it covered.For clutch, I (and many others) will recommend South Bend Clutch.For the transmission swap, don't forget the brake pedal and clutch pedal assembly.For brakes, yes all the GSX parts will swap right over. Don't forget to pick up the...

Split the case using the guides on 2gnt. The differential lifts straight out, and a Quaife drops directly in place.It is pretty straightforward.

The gearbox has a strip-magnet in the case already. A well used transmission should have only minimal filings on it. Shavings, or a lot of filings, indicates the need for repair or replacement.As an example, my 100k+ tranny had only the slightest peppering of fine filings on the magnet, and...

If you cannot find what you're looking for there, you can check 2gnt.com's classifieds also. For parts with simple functions, such as intake and exhaust, eBay is your friend.

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