a 99 vr4 for sub 10k :thumb:you shouldn't be posting that question, you shuold be driving around your vr4 :pmake sure its got a clean title and hasn't been in any accidents for that price :shhh:

cheers to having horrible luck with cars :thumbdownyou've got it even worse then me :eek:it let go at about 2k rpm's but what I think really finished it off was the ~20 sec of cranking after I thought i was out of gas :shhh:

I had the exact same problem with my thermostat, idling it would bring it up to temp but driving around it would cool back down. it was the t-stat, a new factory temp one fixed the issue and the car warms up 10x faster then before now.its a super simple job to change the t-stat on our...

I wanted to salvage the head but what you can't see really well in that picture is that there is a 1/4 inch deep gash between the two intake valves that no amount of fixing would make better, most of the stuff could be smoothed out but the gash went all the way up to the seat, I'll get a better...

http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb1.jpg http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb3.jpg http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb4.jpg http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb5.jpg http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb7.jpg http://www.tongboy.com/images/car/itb8.jpgreplaced the second picture...

so a new twist, I got the head off and after making sure the belt was still intact and aligned (my timing was all aligned all the way around!)and I broke a valve off on the #1 cylinder and it kind of rattled around inside the cylinder punching a hole in the piston and tearing up my rebuilt...

with it not having any oil in it for that long of a time it could have been just about any bearing that failed and locked up, only a good inspection of the entire engine will tell you what failed

pics as promisedhead was rebuilt 3k ago and new timing belt/pullies was done then. 1k before that the BS belt was replaced (yes the new belt skipped 1k after replacement becuase I didn't do the pulleys/tensioner, atleast thats what I can assume)the rest of the plugs look fine...

my car sputtered and died last night as I was pulling into the rec center. I pushed it into a spot and added gas and all that and I couldn't get it to start.this morning I go back and pull the plugs to do a compression test on it, start at 4 and pull all the plugs out, when I get to 1 I have...

depending on where the engine was when it got turned off sometimes the belt will slide to one side of the tooth or the other causing a very small amount of slack between the cam gears, other times it will be completly tight.if its anymore then that then its well worth the time to check it...

500 bones is on the high side for that engine in good order, let alone in the condition it in. it could be an easy fix or you could need to buy a crank/have yours machined if it's bad enough.either way i'd say 200-300 TOPS for buying a broken motor, oyu never know how bad it is until you get...

I remember a vw shop that used to sell quaife's at a totally sweet price. well quaife caught on and threatened to cut off his supply if he didn't sell it at there minimum price.long story short quaife doesn't give the big discount room other product makers do.they've created a good...

I can only assume that he's talking about the oil squirters opening up since they are run off the main bearing oil pathways.but I don't think we'll over know

I found 77 at walmart and didn't think to look in there auto dept. for any other headliner adhesives.I found one at schucks that I had tried before and it lasted all of 2 days before it fell down again so i'm trying to do this right (it could have fallen down again because I didn't scrape...

i've seen belts that didn't squeek but did slip, an easy test to check for slipping is to let the car idle and then shut it off and feel the pullies, if one or all of them are hot its slipping, this can be from a bad belt or sometimes also bad bearings in whatever is getting hot.I dealt with...

I live in the middle of f'ing nowhere and I can't get 3m 74 unless I special order it and wait until friday for it,will 3m 77 work in its place? it says it bonds certain types of foam which is what i'm of course dealing with?any thoughts on it, experience?thanks

yellowing is normal for a car that doesn't have its oil changed damn near constantlythe black looks like burnt oil or carbon buildup, hard to tell from the pic but it does look pretty expansive, certainly not something that happens from running the car full hot for a few minutes, thats a...

make sure your thermostat is functioning, if the car doesn't come up to temp it'll run in warmup regulation most of the time and that kills the gas mileagenot that i know or anything :shhh:

I just finished doing that two days ago, its such a love hate relationship, when the car works great you've got a shit eating grin on your face all day and when its broken you want to take it out back and shoot it :mad:do it right or do it again :thumb: something that is so VERY true with...

if you are replacing the auto tensioner you can completly get away without any special tools.instead of buying the non auto tensioner tension tool just use an allen wrech that fits in the hole and put a socket on the bolt and apply torque to it over the socket with the allen, tightens right...

assuming it was done correctly the two aren't related.but if the bearing got left installed normally or something then it could certainly be related

if they are making noise its already too late to just replace the boots.I recommend raxles.com :thumb:

this is actually from having to do a new head when my mechanic screwed up the last job and it lasted 1500 miles :(I went ahead and was able to get it back down to a tight 5/32 without using any special tools by loosening the tensioner just a bit and using an allen wrench to tighten the...

it has everything that you should replace except the idler which again doesn't have to be replaced but its the only thing that isn't in that kit.I was quoted around 400 in just straight labor at the 4 different places I called up. unless you can find someone that charges just straight hourly...

all dsm maf sensors work with atmospheric pressure. the GM sensors are capable of dealing with pressures above atmosphere thus, they can be run in boost piping or in the normal place

the only thing I would definatly change about this is to for sure loosen the 12mm bolt that he called the lock bolt, its what actually holds the alternator in place and if you don't loosen that you'll end up having it not be as tight and slip later.loosen the lock bolt tighten down the screw...

lets straighten this out a bit.a range where the turbo is efficient is its efficiency range and it has to do with pressure vs air flow not just straight pressure. it is only related to engine speed when looking at when the engine is pumping enough air to get it into its effeciency islands. a...

sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging, check like the last person just said check your clutch fluid and add if necessary and adjust if needed as per the vfaq

why take any of the piping off? just check if its hitting the wide open stop on the outside of the throttle body. twist it with your fingers to full open and note where that is and then have someone step on the pedal and see if it goes to the same place, problem solved without getting a single...

if you just straight up side step it you'll send your drivetrain to hell in a very short time.a fast slip is the best way out of the hole

150 bucks now instead of a head rebuild later is SO much cheaper (trust me I just put my head back on tonight)I was 1500 miles after just a belt replacement when my auto tensioner went and caused my belt to skip a few teeth taking valves with it.having just done my timing belt job I can...

I just finished doing a timing belt job on my car and replacing the auto tensioner.I am using a new tensioner so I figured i could go without making the tensioner tool since I can't find the metric die in town nor can I find metric bolt stock.anyways as per the vfaq I used a 5/32 (.156...

have you tried having someone floor the pedal and check if it fully opens with the car off?if you've got that much slack the pedal might be hitting the floor before its getting the TB all the way open

sounds like its not disengaging all the wayalso check your shift linkageclutch adjustment - http://mywebpages.comcast.net/njdsm2/clutch.html

i've spent more years then I want to admit to working with pvc pipe, and I to this day would never recommend putting it under the hood of a car. sch40 pvc (the more expensive stuff) is rated at around 200 degrees internal holding temperature depending on the quality of the stuff. i've seen...

if you aren't leaking at ALL or very little then you can usually switch to synth without a problemmy ride wasn't leaking when I switched at 127k to full synth and I had to add 1 quart during 10k highway miles on the first oil change

if they are anything like the other integrated gauge systems they will easily be 150-200+ per guage and 300-600+ for hte base unit

you're right, even the description is the correct one :o

vce makes it a fwd so you would tow it with the two front wheels up and it would be fine.

are you absolutely sure you're getting the paper clip all the way into them. try it with all of them, the paper clip goes almost to the bottom of the lifter. when the paper clip is at the bottom and pushing on the piece it needs to be on the top of the lifter (where hte hole is) can be pumped to...

I would leave the radiator fluid in there as it acts as a rust inhibitor and with an iron block that can be important, just make sure it'll take the cold weather you're expecting, a cracked block is a PITAfill the gas tank and put stabilizer in it, if you don't the gas tank can get...

nah, the relay is just for the motors, the headlights run off a seperate circuit

jegs says dynomax 17753 is the 3 in 2x2 1/2 out46.99http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=1276&prmenbr=361first one on the page

thank god its a concept, its ugly as sinsounds like mitsu is getting some ideas from toyota's volta :rolleyes:

I ended up getting it out by prying on the edge of it that just barely sticks out of its bore, I don't know why it was stuck in there as I was able to pull it out with pliers once I got a hold of it without TOO much effort. lifter is destroyed though :( and my friend will be as well :mad...

I thought if you had a 90/91 and abs that you had an open rear diff? :confused:

I don't know why it needed to be tapped in at all either, the 8 I did just dropped right into place with maybe a wriggle, he said the rest of the 8 he did were easy as well, he should have stopped on that one, I don't know why he didn't :(now he says he did a bit more then "tap it in" i'm...

don't forget the big bracket on the back of the intake mani that goes to the block, its a PITA to get at but its what I couldn't figure out when my head wasn't budging

how to read the codes out of the 1g http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html

http://www.mckeone.net/abs.htmlits really pretty obvious if you have abs, theres that big block that gets in the way of doing everything in front of the battery, from pictures i've seen the diverter/blowoff valve is also in a different place then on cars w/o abs