They make all the spectators stand way off in the distance. They're usually standing out there on their own which seems to keep the car from identifying them as a "crowd" so it doesn't seem to react the way you would expect.
Still kicking around, just spending more time with Luda on his other forum for track mustangs now. Still have a soft spot for the DSM platform though. Wouldn't want to build a racecar out of one, but an OEM+ build like this one that @Paintballaa5 built would be an absolutely awesome garage toy.
What do you mean about the lighter flywheel?You're going to kill third gear over time with a basic 14b setup. Trust me. I killed multiple.Here's a quick glance at the difference between the flywheels.2.0 NT flywheel...
I'm sure you did. The diameter and the bolt pattern is all 100% the same. The difference lies in the depth of the bellhousing. Compare the flat flywheel of the 2.0 NT 4g63 to the stepped Turbo 4G63 flywheel and you'll find that the clutch itself extends about an inch deeper into the bellhousing...
Looking good cioc - I like the gap filling at the bumpers. That was always one of those things that mildly annoyed me. Given the other issues my car had though I was never that concerned about the little details, but glad you found a solution for it.
The flares on that 2g look nothing like the flares i had on my Talon that were 240z flares. The 240z flares aren't all 4 identical for and aren't that large.
Parted the car out last fall. Guy in Ohio bought the shell and chased down my flares. Hes gathering parts right now to build it back up.Ive got a hci 95 mustang now thats pretty much full bolton.Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
ClassicCar - If you haven't already, sign up for Indystars DSM, there's a good group of DSM enthusiasts based in Indy who would be more than happy to help you get that thing back in tip top form.
I honestly don't know that anyone has ever done this. And from the handling both side by side I'm about 85% positive that they are not interchangeable. I've been wrong before though however.Also there are different axles. The 90-92 turbo's and 90-94 nt's share the same axles, the 92.5 - 94...
Defintely had power steering, cruise control, even a cd player still. Thought about putting a/c back into it before it got parted out. Those flares are in someones hands now. Not sure they've ever been reinstalled.
For the record my wheels were 17x9 +24mm offset. Tires were 275/40-17's.If I had it to do again I'd go to 18x10 + 20mm offset and 285/30-18's as they're closer to the factory rolling diameter and readily available in the afermarket along with that wheel size and offset.
Personally not a fan of hard mounting these sending units as vibrations can cause the brass to crack from the weight of them bouncing or just kill the sending unit all together. I used an oil feed line setup and remote mounted mine with a rubber insulator.
Please don't drag my name into nonsense bullshit. I never help Travis build his motor, and even on NOS it never made more than 640hp to the wheels. Certainly never cleared 1000. I was there the last day that car ever touched a dyno. :notgood:
I killed 3 nt transmissions. All ended up looking just about like the one posted above. Let this be a warning to those trying to cheap out on the conversion. All of mine died at 16-20psi on a turbo block mated to a nt trans with an nt specific act2600. The clutch could take all the power I could...
I hate all black wheels. And I'm not a fan of "blacked out" cars. Even on my wifes black car with tint we put some hypersilver Enkei's on it to geep it from looking cheap and ghetto.
Roof scoops are semi-functional in rally cars. The air builds up higher pressure inside the passenger compartment than outside and helps keep dust and dirt down for the drivers. Unless you're planning on rally'ing that car I don't think you'd find a use for it.
For what it's worth I run Koni yellows, 500f Hypercoils, and 415 rear hypercoils, along with a suspension techniques rear bar on full soft and a stock front bar.
Glad you guys made it out to the IndyHP Shootout. I was the guy running grid who was talking to you before your final run. Thanks for putting on a show.
Are you restricting the oil pressure to this turbo in any way? At low pressure mine used to always flow into the exhaust side while idling and feeding from the oil filter housing. Switched it to the head feed and it all went away.
Next time something like that happens, put it in reverse, hold pressure on the brakes, and accelerate. The open diff will transfer some power to the wheel on the ground because the free spinning wheel is held by the brakes themselves. Works great. A little hard to do though with a clutch...
Damn rear air suspension is being weird on thisso currently I'm dd'ing this when I'm not riding to work with the wife in her blacked out Outback seen in the background.
I'd go with a proven setup, there are plenty of rally racers still running 1g's. Most are about 1" above factory ride height for dirt sections. Track one down and ask them, or do it the easy was and call RRE since they've set up quite a few in the past. Hell there's even video of them jumping a...
I think once you guys had a real tv and real channels you'd probably be a lot more interested. I've got a 65" DLP from Mitsubishi and Verizon FIOS HD broadcasting through it. Some of the channels are awesome like Palladia where they show high definition live concerts from great bands. Yesterday...
It's going to depend alot on what the wheel offsets are and what rims you're buying.My 17x9 +24mm offset mustang wheels absolutely do not tuck under the wheelwells.
They also have this for the blackberry storm. I'm going to take a test run with mine tomorrow. Is there anyway to judge hp without doing a full 1/4 mile pull?
I have one, it can be a little tricky to get setup at first, but most of the issues I had were related to it not wanting to talk to my laptop. Once I got that fixed it seemed to work pretty well.
Glad to hear it's still holding up. I just rebuilt the motor in mine, waiting on some 1000cc injectors to make it here from Canuckistan and then I'm going to see what I can get out of this 18g.
If it's been done once, it shouldn't be done again. The issue was with the original part they installed, the set you have is the repaired set. Ball joints go bad, you should not be surprised that after 9 years of driving a lowered car that you have to replace the balljoints.