:thumb: Good to know Tom. It'll be Sunday before I'll be able to mess with mine again, but I will check it then and post back. Were you getting any vac leaks from anywhere else?? What about the one you have under the intake mani?? Have you got it fixed yet?

Eagle 1 Nevr Dull. The best stainless and aluminum polish I have come across.:thumb:

Ok, just for the sake of agreeing. Just say your fuel pump is going down. You said your dad got it to run at 2.5k for 10 minutes without a problem. I'm not saying it's not the fuel pump, but if it was it would be dead by now. The pump isn't gonna work crappy one day then work correctly the next...

I've pretty much halted this thread man. Jump over onto the other one that Alan stated above. Post your question on it and we can discuss it there. But I will go ahead and agree that it's most likely a boost leak situation. You might as well go ahead and run a full boost leak check on the car...

I would say if an oil change really does have anything to do with a PO300, it would be more likely to be internal pressure related. That would make more sense than heat. I guess it could be a little of both though. It's possible though that with too little or too much oil the pressure could jump...

Have you fixed the evap leak then?? If not that needs to be addressed first.

Well, I'm not concerned about the mechanic's price. He's my neighbor and he'll just make me do the work using his high tech equipment while he watches and advises. He teaches auto mechanics at the local tech college. I just don't ever have him do any work for me because I have a lot of...

If you have an type of fabrication skills or know anyone who does you could just buy the Greddy intercooler piping you want and buy the HKS flange from Extreme PSI and weld it on. Also, Stillen used to make a 2.5" UICP that a Blitz or HKS would bolt to. I bought one for my gst when I first...

Man, the three of us (Tom, Alan and I) should be experts on this by now. From dealing with this for so long I have found that there can be absolutely numerous things that can cause the PO300 code. Have you read through mine and bboyalan's threads in their entirety?? You should do so if you...

First take the other guys advice and do a boost leak test. Nobody ever went wrong doing a boost leak test, even though I believe that has nothing to do with it.Are you getting an excessive amount of lifter tick?? If so you are most likely having some phantom knock issues. 2G's are usually...

This doesn't make a bit of sense to me :confused:. What does your mechanic friend mean by fog is pouring from the tb?? I'm not very familiar with the 420a engine, but most EGR valves are located below the intake manifold with vaccuum lines running to the egr solenoid and tb. You should be able...

I worked on the car all afternoon testing all the things I had left, and AAAAGGGHHH!!!!!:cry:. Why don't they have a smilie that's screaming?? :D. Anyways, I obviously couldn't find anything else wrong. Everything I tested was good. I'm stuck now, the only thing I haven't tested is the CPS. Just...

Actually if you are going to be eliminating the fuel pressure sensor you won't have to pressurize it to get a reading. You would be able to just test the resistance of the solenoid and line it up with a resistor of the same resistance. Make sure though that you buy a resistor that will dissipate...

Just use a multimeter and test for the resistance in ohms across the leads of the fuel pressure solenoid. You will also need to apply vaccuum to the solenoid to see how much the resistance changes according to vac pressure. Then you'll have an idea of which ohm resistor you'll need.

I guess thats really about all we can do. After I installed the new ecu and mas yesterday and didn't get anything different I got to thinking about it. A couple years ago for some reason some mice got into the engine compartment of my gst. They chewed most of the leads from my MSD DIS-2 to the...

It may very well be dumb and annoying, but it could still be the problem. You need to start testing parts instead of replacing them. Trust me, I've been through all this. The power transistor could cause your problems, but test it first to be sure before you replace it. You've already swapped...

Did you ever test the MDP sensor like we talked about?? Since you were throwing a code, that would be the obvious first place to start. It is possible the fuel pump could be getting hot and restricting the output flow, but it's unlikely unless your pump is old and worn out. If you do have an...

Hey guys, sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've been really busy preparing for my new job in a couple weeks. Anyways, I have an update, but it definitely isn't a good one. I got my ECU, MAS and BCS in a couple days ago. I swapped it all out today. I did the MAS first and cranked the car...

Since this problem supposedly came about after washing the engine bay, you might consider testing the CAS (cam angle sensor). Usually the CAS is the first thing to go out after getting wet.

Most of these types of problems that originate depending on the outside air temperature are usually caused by the MAS. The MAS contains 2 different sensors: intake temperature sensor and the barometric pressure sensor. When one of these 2 sensors starts throwing fits the engine will have idle...

I forgot you were running a blow through setup. That is exactly right that ambient air temps do not affect a GM MAS. Have you tried testing any of your sensor yet?? The MDP sensor is not gonna affect everything that you are having go wrong. The MDP sensor will usually only cause idle problems if...

And backfire like a Biaatch.:DBtw, you sound like you are running quite lean. I believe a lot of the a/f problems associated with the PO300's is originating in the MAS. I will know in a couple of days as my MAS and ECU get here. The MAS contains the intake air temp sensor and a barometric...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/291862-my-car-has-gone-skits.htmlThere's the link to a thread where I discussed how to test the MDP sensor.The CAS and CPS can be tested without an oscilloscope. Unplug the connector, there will be 3 pins on each sensor. Those 3 pins are...

Have you read through mine and bboyalan's threads?? I'm guessing you have since you said you have read all the PO300 threads. First off your timing is not gonna be off. Thats a for sure thing. If the timing was off, ie ( if the t-belt jumped a tooth) the car wouldn't run right period. Since you...

The ecu does control certain ignition components, so yes if the ecu were to go out it could cause the car to not crank. Like stated, it's a possibility your CAS could be going bad. Did you check the MDP sensor?? Was it good or no?? Try testing your injectors next, just unplug teh connectors off...

The gasket only goes one way. Either upside down or right side up. Only one way works. Rookie is right, you need no spray. Take a bottle of soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it over the throttle body while doing a boost leak test. Then you can see if it's the BISS. If it is the BISS screw...

I think we all did the only thing we could do at the time. Not that it was the best thing, but hey, what else can you do.:| At least we've both got several new sensors and a new alternator for me that probably won't be going out anytime soon.Why not just crank that MBC up to 15 or 16 once...

My EGR solenoid is good, as well as the EGR valve. I couldn't find any problems there. After all this is over and I've got the car back up and running I'm gonna do a total emissions elimination though. On the plug deal, I know the car is running extremely lean, but I don't know what the deal is...

More than likely the alternator ground is loose or the connector on the front is loose or disconnected.

BG Synchroshift II is a full synthetic manual transmission fluid. It's about the best thing around for a smooth shifting trans.As for the EGR, like stated above it does nothing for performance to remove it, but it will just eliminate that much more that can cause problems down the road. It...

I would have never guessed you would be running a Greddy oil filter.:D

What does the insulator look like on the plugs you pulled out?? A white covered electrode means the engine is running too hot. But the insulators will usually be blistered and there will be very little deposits of any kind on it. What type of plugs are running?? If you're not already you need to...

Pull your intake pipe off and check for shaft play on the turbo. That will tell you what kind of shape your 16G is in. And yes, a boost leak can make such a difference in power it'll feel like a dog. Just get your bottle of soapy water and boost leak tester and get to it.:thumb:. Then you'll...

Yes, I did test the injectors. They all passed with flying colors. I was actually hoping one of them would fail the test.I replaced the plugs with BPR6ES plugs a week or so after I got the PO300. Just like we discussed in your thread, 2 of mine were affected. One was a lot worse than the...

You're boost guage is not going to give you any information about a boost leak. If you had a boost leak bad enough to affect the reading on your boost gauge you would definitely know it. An intercooler pipe would have to be completely blown off for that. The only way you're going to know where...

:thumb:, I'll definitely agree with that. :D. But the year model's not gonna make much of a difference there. Guys, there are no certain problems that you are gonna have more of with a 97 than with any other 2Gb. I have heard that as well that 97's had the highest percentage of CW. If the car...

The MDP sensor is located on top of the intake manifold. Unplug the electrical connector. The connectors on these sensors can be a PIA to get off if you don't know how to. There is a small metal clip that runs around 3 sides of the connector. Just take an awl/pick and pull the metal clip off...

That sure is a good looking skinny radiator you've got there. I would address the rust issues on the thermostat housing. A little emery cloth will take care of that in short order. The valve cover looks good too. You said you are on the fence about going with a blow through setup or not, do it...

Did the engine completely lock up on you?? If not you might still have some usable parts to work with if you're on a budget. The best bet though would probably be fresh rebuild for everything, unless you caught it before the oil pump was starved for oil. If you had an oil change shop do this and...

You could always just get another tank from a junkyard awd, and swap it out.

You're talking about the ECT sensor? I swapped it out when all this first started thinking that might be the cause. It didn't help anything, but it's possible that was what was causing the temps to fluctuate the way they were. I'll just have to get this ecu and put it on there and see what that...

The MDP sensor could definitely cause this intermittent problem. Which 02 sensor code did you get?? Btw, you said this is for your 95, do you still have the 97?? If so, can't you just swap the ecu's and see if that's it or get a buddy with a dsm to swap with. Just so you can figure out if that's...

Well, no I haven't considered that. Would that work though?? I've got a 97 ECU and BCS on the way right now. Should have it all here and in the car by middle of next week. Like Tom and I were talking about on your thread, I noticed this when the PO300 first showed up. For example, I went out and...

Yes, I know it's because I'm running lean. That is part of this whole problem. It started that crap when this po300 started. And I haven't been driving the car whatsoever, so I know I haven't caused any problem. Is it possible that it is the ecu like it was with bboyalan's?? I found a 97 ecu...

Man, that thing is taking forever to get there isn't it??For some reason when i crank my car and run it for like 2 minutes the exh. manifold gets red hot:confused:. I sent a couple pm's about ecu's so maybe i'll be able to get something in the next week or so.

OhOMG, shows how much attention I'm paying, doesn't it. It was back up with new posts and I didn't pay any attention to when you started it. Sorry. :D

:thumb:, that's great man. So it was the IC elbow coming from the smic that was actually causing the problem along with that hole on the TB?? I never could find any boost leaks on mine, but i guess that doesn't mean their not there. I think I need to go ahead and get an ECU bought from someone...

The burnt smell is totally normal for that kind of abuse. The oem clutch pressure plate and disc are designed to work well for everyday stop and go traffic driving. The oem disc wasn't designed to do any launching, especially 4.5k launches. The stock disc just can't handle the abuse that a high...

I don't know if you've been reading my thread, but I found out yesterday why I'm getting the 1104 code (BCS). I was going to reroute all of my vaccuum hoses back to stock to bypass my Greddy boost controller. Well, I got in there and found that the BCS was just goneOMG. I don't know where it...

Agreed:thumb: