Dave, that is a beautiful car!It's a damn shame about NABR. I got lucky and got in years ago because my old boss was on there. It was pretty ruthless, but it kept the BS to a minimum. It was like a necessary evil to make it so they could curate only the best information for the tech write...
I agree with Pauleyman. The only way I would consider all of that is if you were going to turn it into a show car, otherwise there isn't a real reason to take all the panels off in order to have is painted. You could pull the motor and tranny if you wanted to change the color of the car and...
I think it just depends on what you use to tune it. Back then people were using maf translators, which imo aren't the best. It's better than a Safc but still. The most I ever made before I went built motor and standalone was about 285whp, that was with a big 16g (22psi) and a maf translator...
Pointed straight at the ground the sound shoots back at the car, kinda like when you have a car with a exhaust dump under the car and not out of the back.
I agree. Rust is cancer for cars, and you never know how bad it really is unless you take the car apart and get everything blasted and cleaned up. If you do fix the car you are going to have a lot of time and money in it. In it's current condition I wouldn't consider buying it, just because...
IMO it's not as loud as it is when it's pointed straight at the ground. As far as the hood goes, if it's a close to flush mount your hood will get dirty especially if the paint is a lighter color. Don't know anything about driving in the rain with one, I wouldn't want to but that's just me.
It's hard to find these cars in stock form these days, but if I were you I would just keep an eye out, and don't rush into anything. Find yourself one that's in at least fair condition, and if you can have someone that knows cars go look at it with you. These are really fun cars and they are...
My car was down for a blown up cluch for a month (had to save the cash for the clutch). When I put the clutch in and start the car it runs for about two minutes then the dash lights and kick panel lights start flickering (any light that is on when it starts doing it starts flashing). So I shut...
I had a 6 puck unsprung 2900. After a 2000 miles, the rivets holding the disc together came apart. It cost me $100 tow truck ride and left me or the side off the road for 2 hours. The pucks still looked brand new, and ACT wouldn't do any thing about it. :notgood:
You need an aftermarket gauge, the stock ones are pretty hard to read and slow to react. If your pan is crushed it could be partially covering your oil pick up, which could restricted oil flow.
If I where you I'd go with the slicks, for 1 drag radials on a fwd will never hook as good as a slick. Second drag radials usually = more broken parts than slicks, because drag radial side walls are stiff and have no give. But the slicks will give a little and help save drivetran parts.
My car was down for a blown up cluch for a month (had to save the cash for the clutch). When I put the clutch in and start the car it runs for about two minutes then the dash lights and kick panel lights start flickering (any light that is on when it starts doing it starts flashing). So I shut...
Did the timing belt on a 2.4l single cam in a 1999 galant got it all back together and now I have a lot of vibration around 3000 rpms. Tore back into it and Ieverything looks fine it's all still lined up.My question is about the oil pump balence shaft, aren't you suppose to just line...
Yeah if you get the motor level with a jack (as level as it is with the tranny in the car) it's real easy. Just as easy as a 1G tranny (1Gs have 3 motor mounts holding the motor in straight).
If that end cover is cracked it's most likely because either one of the two, or both of the two 36mm nuts behind the cover have worked themselves loose. They back out then when you shift into fifth or reverse they hit that cover and eventually crack it.If the cover is cracked open I don't...
Well I have no experience with the dsmlink, how does it compare to lets say the AEM EMS. I have a little bit of experience with the AEM, and a little bit with the haltech, and I would rather have one of these but i'm straped for cash right now.
I have a 2g and I currently have the MAFT setup, I put the maft on with my current setup.
which is:
Big 16g turbo, maft, safc, 880cc injectors, and a 100shot(and all the supporting mods)I put the maft on the car, got the car to start up and rev then we did a few pulls on the dyno. Got a...
Is it possible to swap the internals of a 1g tranny to a 2g tranny? I have a bad 2g tranny and I have a bunch of spare parts from 1g trannys, and I need one good 2g tranny.
Be careful with this problem, it's a pretty common problem with a lot of dsms I've seen. After the master cylinder is changed and before check to make sure that there is no cluth fluid (brake fluid) on your carpet. Because if there is there might be a slight chance that the bad master...
Yeah I know it's been done before and 9 times out of 10 they don't last long but I was just wondering if anyone had any hp numbers.Oh yeah I'm not trying to do it I already have a 6 bolt lng block that I'm building.
So what is the right way to use a AVC-R? I have used both of them and from my experiences the profec be was the better of the two. Just for the simple fact it didn't spike or the boost didn't drop off. just my .02
Ok I also have an idle problem, but my problem is all the time. From the time I start my car it idles at 2k until after about 10 minutes of driving then it starts to surge from 2500 to 1500 until I turn it off.