I went from a 14b to a 20g it's definitely a different drive. I personally think the 14b is better for daily use but now that I have a second car. The 20 is fine for weekend fun.

I haven't used link but ecu flash is really easy to use and I haven't had any issues with it.

No problem at all. I step on the gas and I'm building boost in any gear.

Very! I have abs also and I've never felt until I did this swap. The outlander rotors will lock up your tires very easily.

That helps out tremendously!! Thank you. Yes I'm using the 2g maf with evo 9 settings. The car won't Go over 4k rpm with the stock maf setting otherwise. Well I guess I will rescale the timing map tonight. From 180 to 340 and up its -10 all the way across which is why the stock ting map felt...

So so I rescaled the maf yesterday bak to the stock setting because the evo9 maf died on me. And the car wouldn't rev over 4k rpm. Which I thought was odd it's the problem I had back when I switched to the 20g to begin with. So I flashed back the evo maf settings and problem solved. Not sure...

There is nothing different other than the I taken manifold. If actuated properly it's really nice. Provides a huge increase low end tq. The engine comes out of a jdm galant.

Ok so the low end knock is gone with the rescale and voltage output of the injectors. Scaled them to 565.

Isn't the 13g smaller than a t25? I would say your right at its max now.

So long over due, I have now switched over to big maps. I have a couple of questions for everyone. Now I have upgraded to a tdo5 20g turbo for starters. I still using the evo9 injectors. I have them scaled in ecu flash as 518cc because that's as close to 513cc I can get to which was in Merlin's...

Mines red and I have no issues with it, I'd prefer black... But it's hard to find these cars in good condition in the color you want.

May be easier to just buy a running car and have if shipped there I know a guy selling one for 4500 completely stock except for a 14b turbo and exhaust.

It should be richer at idle with a 255 an no fpr..

This is the current fuel map that's on the car that allowed it to get out of its mode of not being able to rev over 4000 rpms

Oh well that's good to know cause currently I have it turned down all the way I was thinking of trying to at least run 15psi and see where the idc is at that point. I'm using ceddy'a big maps to tune with so I have lots of room to work with.

I did swap housings, I have noticed that it does spike pretty harshly if I get on it especially in second gear. I got on it the other day and it spiked to 25psi in a blink. Third-fifth is pretty good about not spiking.

I do plan to raise the boost at some point. The flapper is stock, I'm sure at 25psi it will be a very different experience. I would like to do some road racing with this car. Eventually but till that time comes I'm not sure what it's going to do. It does want to exceed the 13si though. Yes it's...

Ok well given we are running to completely different setups my 14b acted completely different. Never spiked or had any creeping issues. I saw 77% idc at 21psi and would fall like I said to 15psi.No reason to get mad I'm the one who has to drive the car.Currently have logged 63 %idc at...

Yes I remember I saw, and the 14b was maxed out it wouldn't even hold boost through the rpm range. It would drop to 15psi by 6000rpm but I did take your advice into consideration.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/467421-20g-trade.htmlThis car is no longer my dd so I'm not worried about it.. And I can pick up so larger injectors fairly easily. The car wasn't running so now I got it worked out, so I went for a test drive.

Well I have gotten the car officially back in the running category. As far as what I think of the 20g so far, it's spools fairly quickly but it's silentl. I can almost not hear it at all. Second gear has boost spike issues. I'm running 13psi at the moment till I can't get a good gauge to how the...

Yes they is correct.

The calipers are a direct fit, rotors are the tricky part. You can use 13in rotors off a 03 cobra but they have to be shaved down just a bit. I was thinking maybe rx8 rotors may work.

That could be your turbo screaming at high rpms

So I flashed the big maps onto the car and now it runs it seems for now it revs like normal I'll keep everyone updated if it keeps working good but as of now it seems ok.

Just I put into perspective of how big a 20g is and it's amazing your car hadn't blown up yet running 18psi T25 14b- I hit fuel cut here with a 17psi on stock injectors 16g B16g Evo 3 16g 18g 20g- there's no way your you should be running 18psi on this turbo on stock fuel.

So preformed another boost lest test today and found one on the compressor housing. Apparently the 20g bolt holes go all the way through the compressor housing. So after plugging that hole. The car won't go over 4500 rpms

Agreed I have a daily and I'm still keeping my ac in other car cause sometimes I want to drive that one.. When it's working of course

With my car acting a complete retard my 20g builds boost at 2000rpms unfortunately I haven't been able to really use it yet.

Did that and the car diesI tried a different transistor pack and the car did the same thing. I'm thinking it must be the ecu. But I have no other thoughts on what it could be. I have a 97 ecu but my injectors aren't going to like it if I put that in the car. But I guess I could try just to...

14.7-14.3 at idle 13.5 before it starts to cut out. I have never had a boost leak that had made it where the car was unable to rev over a certain rpm. Did blt and found small leak through biss screw and tps sensor. As far as waste gate, I'm using the same one that was on the 14b. Which worked...

The same way everyone else does. I've had this car 8 years. Really doesn't sound like a boost leak anyway being I changed a couple things and now revs higher. But thank you for your not useful input.

So I went back through everything today and check for leaks replaced the o2 sensor and alternator. Both giving me issues. Now I can rev to 4000 some times 4500 but it does bog down once you hit boost just a bit. Well a lot.

I'm not referring to the adapter. If you go to the website on the top left corner of the package it shows a spacer for the exhaust manifold. Any how I apologize if I was incorrect, but I have never seen a 20g bolted to the manifold in a stock position.

Are you sure about this because the Hahn kits come with a spacer. Not to mention mine sits right on the pipe with maybe a hairs about of space to fit inbetween the housing and the turbo.

Also the 20g fp sales had a tdo6 compressor housing on it and will not fit with you exhaust manifold bolted to the head. You will either need an fp race manifold or a spacer for clearance for the compressor housing.

I don't trust what they did at this point. I asked them if there were any codes present and they told Me no. So when I got the car home I tested it and it showed a barometric pressure code. So I looked it up and said maf issue. I swaped my stock maf back on to try it out and changed the spark...

9 psi on bigger turbo I wouldn't just run 20psi on my a turbo that was just installed. Anyhow yes they did a compression test but said there was oil all in the holes if the so the blew the oil out of the holes. And only running on 3 cylinders. So cylinder 1 is not firing. Which may explain the...

Yes it's having issues for sure. They got it to start but now I am having to ruble Getting it to start. None of that makes any sense for it run completely fine before and then after the swap not work

So the shop says that it has low compression on one side of the engine and high on the other. And the spark plugs are fouled and it won't start because there's so much oil on the plugs. That really doesn't sound like what happened to me. It was fine before the turbo was swapped. So I'm going to...

Going to car today no crank sensor, because the car had a 6 bolt at one time. so now it only cam sensor

I have and evo maf that is connected with an ECM link harness. So I'm sure that's connected. I did a check on the ic piping and it's all connected. It wouldn't move at all when I tried to start it this time. I only removed a small part of of the ic piping when we put everything on. It almost is...

Yes all vacuum lines are connected it capped. The only thing that changed was the turbo we didn't touch any of the other lines that would affect anything else.

When the car was moving before it broke the turbo spooled at 2500 rpms. Now car won't work can't rev over 1500.

It won't rev over 1500 rpms it's like someone just cut the power yes the waste gate is fine the turbos starts spooling at 2500 rpms. It has evo injectors. When we started the car it wouldn't accelerate. About 15 minutes later it was driving mostly normal. This morning it started fine but then...

After the install the car was in limp mode. When we started it. It eventually got out of it and was driving fine but now, it is back in it. While under cruise. It has a tune on it already so I was wondering if it had lost the tune but that's not it either.

So i put the 20g on yesterday and now the car will only run in limp mode. It went out of limp mode but now but then I was driving to the store and it went back into it. Do I need to reflash it so it will run correctly?

Well I go my 20g in today with a super poted 6cm housing and it spools rather quickly. I have it on low Boost at the moment till I can figure out a good tune for it.

Really that's impressive, I figure that it would still hit hard enough to break the tires loose. When do you see full boost?

The 14b will be instant boost as well as a 16g I can't say what the 20g will do just yet because mines still in the install process. But I don't think the lag will be that bad but I'm using a smaller hot side.