PM sent

Where in Dallas are you? I may be able to take a look at it for you.

PB Blast = Nectar of the Gods.

^^^ Exactly the advice I would have given you.I just recently dealt with a very similar problem (almost exactly your problem, except mine was "locked" out of 5th and reverse)...Turned out to be a bent shift bracket on the transmission. Still not sure how that happened, as mine had been...

By "negative boost" I assume you mean vacuum. Vacuum is good. At idle, you should be reading around 20inHg. As far as the idle surge, check your BISS first. Does the car stall, or feel like the idle will occasionally drop too low for it to "catch"? Once you've adjusted the BISS properly, if...

Hard to tell from your picture, but given what you're describing, I'd be inclined to believe that whatever the "red thread sealant" type stuff that was poured over the BISS is can't be a good thing (lol). My recommendation would be to replace the BISS entirely, just to be on the safe side. It...

I don't believe there are any non-OEM shifter cables available for DSMs ;)

Try the classifieds, hit up a junkyard, or look around on ebay. I picked mine up for about $50 shipped, if I remember correctly. Keep in mind that any year 91-94 will work on your car (but not 1990!).:thumb:Edit: If you'd prefer new ones, you can try San Rafael Mitsubishi. Mention you are a...

Here you go :)http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html

If you can verify that the injectors are indeed firing, but the car still isn't starting, another typical (and very annoying) cause for a non-start is the coolant temp sensor. You can check resistance at the pins following the guidelines listed in this post (scroll down towards the bottom for a...

http://vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-2GFWD.htmlIn case you need it.

Ah, too bad :( Well, everything else I said still goes. Looks like you've got your work cut out for you. Electrical related problems can be a pain in the a$$.....Just start with the battery - you can take your old one to AutoZone, PepBoys, Advance Auto, etc and they can test it for you...

Battery....Alternator....Starter.... Check grounds, fuses, and wiring as well.Can you push start it?

A special tool for doing what to a fuel pump, exactly?If you mean installing it, then no, you don't. :)

grnchevyz raises a good point - someone may have attempted to steal the car (or something out of it) when it was broken into, and could have screwed up some electrical components, fried the ignition circuit, etc.Might want to check out this post if you haven't already. It'll show you some...

Damn, Damien. You really have some great luck with the automobiles, don't you? lol.Actually, funny you should mention this...The exact same thing happened to me a few years back...It took a Dremel and a lot of heat, if I recall correctly (as well as some brute force kindly donated by my dad)...

Here is a VFAQ article for adjusting shifter linkage at the shifter base. I am actually in the process right at this moment of making a "full" shifter cable removal/installation/adjustment tech guide for this site, so look for that within the next few days. But this should help you get started...

You know what, you are absolutely right. That's what I get for thinking about 5 other things while posting....Edited my post above...Chalk it up to a blonde moment. haha.

Yes, the fuel pressure solenoid can be safely removed, along with the other solenoid(s) next to it on the firewall if the whole "emissions" thing isn't quite your cup of tea ;).Its main purpose is to adjust fuel pressure on HOT starts - one more useless part on our cars courtesy of good 'ol...

According to VFAQ's "1000 Already Answered Questions" you cannot (without modification to the shifter):Not saying that no one's done it, or that even you won't be successful, but as far as companies making these and selling them for DSMs, I highly doubt that will ever happen, as each gate...

Great post Mondo....But to address the original poster: I would be willing to bet cash that your temp sensor is indeed the culprit. Every symptom you listed perfectly describes a bad coolant temp sensor. I mean that is a "By The Book" explanation of what happens when that sensor dies.Before...

Usually in this case the fuel pump would continue running, just wouldn't be able to send enough fuel to the injectors to start the car (or keep it running). His problem appears to be that the ECU isn't hearing a signal from the fuel pump, and thus isn't able to keep it running after the starter...

At this point I would susupect ECU as well. A major symptom of leaky caps is that the ECU is not able to keep the fuel pump running once the starter circuit has primed the system.Go ahead and pull the ECU and let us know what you find. If you've caught the problem early enough, you can...

In case you're still having this problem, there's a temp gauge sending unit on the thermostat housing, next to the coolant temp sensor. The sending unit itself doesn't usually go out - it's usually the wires going to it that get old and brittle, and will break off. Here's a link to a post that...

Good catch man. Guess I should have read the whole item description. Haha. :p

It sounds like a wire may have been shorted out somewhere between the MPI relay and the pump. Is your pump rewired? If so, check the relay at the pump assembly. I recently saw a problem similar to this - turns out the ground on the rewire relay had been rattled loose and wasn't always making...

To answer the original question, yes, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to install that pump. I imagine that the installation would be fairly similar to any of the other aftermarket pumps. See here for an example: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/1GFWD-pump.htmIs there a particular reason...

Starting to sound more like a wiring issue.All the things you listed run on the same circuit. Since your dome light is coming on, it's not a blown fuse, though (which would be fuse #19, by the way).I pulled up the wiring diagram for the area you're having problems with. Everything on this...

I assume you can turn the light off manually, correct?I would imagine that it's a bad door switch. These get old and corroded, and can stick. In the case of my car, the driver's side door switch got stuck in the "closed" (off) position, so my light never came on....but it looks like your...

I guess that's part of what you sign up for when you own a 15+ year old car, eh? ;)Definitely check out that pulley though - sounds like it could very well be your problem.No worries if it turns out to be in need of replacement; the crank pulley is surprisingly easy to change (just...

The harmonic balancer is also known as the crank pulley. It's held on to the cam sprocket by 4 bolts, and drives your alternator and water pump belts. Good catch, Defiant. ;)A search for "Crank Pulley" or "Harmonic Balancer" should give you lots more information than you ever wanted to know...

Cool, glad you got it fixed :)

I assume you've checked the fuse...? FYI, fuse #19 (the last fuse in the box) controls the dome light/reading light, the key illuminator light, foot lights, hatch lights, door ajar dash warning light, and glove compartment light. If these are out, too, it's the fuse (10A).If it's not the...

Mine did the same thing a while back....I Seafoamed the intake, and found a small crack in the exhaust manifold. As Matt said, Seafoam is great about "showing" you exactly where your exhaust leak(s) are coming from. ;)So +1 for the exhaust leak.

Your car's "favorite gear oil" does depend on your climate, to an extent. I run straight MT90 in my transmission and x-case, and 75w85 in the rear diff, personally. I live in a hot climate (too hot, really. I need to move). But I digress... Cars in colder climates seem to prefer either a...

Do you have a CEL, or a way to pull codes from the ECU? Not all stored codes will throw a CEL, just fyi. If you don't have a datalogger, I would recommend investing in one.Just off the top of my head - Check for Boost Leaks, make sure your MAS is plugged in and operational (no loose...

Have a rag handy and be ready to swap the sensors quickly to avoid losing too much coolant (if you don't want to drain your coolant first).Good luck. :)

You've gotten some great advice - glad to see you're looking into a DSM, as they are awesome little cars with a lot of potential. And yes, they can be as reliable as any 15 year-old car. Routine maintenence is key - I cannot stress that enough. Keep on top of your service intervals and keep a...

Yeah, what Steve said. ;)If you're looking for very basic guidelines, a Haynes or Chilton (90-94) guide is usually okay about noting year-specific differences, but for anything above and beyond the most basic repairs, I would track down a 90-specific factory service manual from Chrysler. I...

Haha, we are just on all of the same threads tonight, aren't we? :thumb:

You'll need to verify whether you're lacking fuel or spark first.Check out this article if you haven't already: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1825130 It'll give you the basic troubleshooting guideline to get you started. A lot of it is geared toward 1gs, but 2gs follow the same...

check your Shifter linkage first (just got through an ordeal with that, myself actually, and I now know more about shifter linkage than I would care to ;) ). Here is a VFAQ that includes the basics of how to adjust the linkage. The faq is for a 1g, but if I recall, the 2g adjustment procedure is...

Yeah, everyone has pretty much nailed it :thumb: I had to do it the "champagne cork" way myself a while back - just have a rag (and preferably a fire extinguisher) handy and wear protective eye gear and gloves; as would be standard procedure every time you're working near the fuel system. Some...

I heard about that. Very unfortunate. My heart goes out to his family and friends...Now? Plano is cop central. Always has been. :| Especially that area - I feel terrible for the kid, but anyone in their right mind should know better than to street race in Plano :nono:

Here's a link to the wire that's being referenced: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showpost.php?p=151022179&postcount=10 (it's the second pic in this post).That wire's responsibility, as stated, is to keep the car from stalling at idle when a load is placed on the power steering. I *doubt* this is...

Cool, glad we could help :) Sometimes it's the simplest problems that give us the biggest headaches ;)

+ 1 for the coolant temp sensor. Good job guys :) I first noticed the problem with mine when I was adjusting shifter cables. I removed the intake to get a better angle on the cables and I hit the temp sensor wires and they must have been old and corroded, because they completely came apart...

Glad you got it all figured out and back on the road :thumb:

spyderturbo007 is right -- DSMs like to throw an odd assortment of lights at you when the alternator is on the fritz. Check the alternator belt and make sure it's nice and tight, check all fuses (obviously), and if you have time, check for play in the crank pulley.First, though, I would stop...

Well, if your car cranks (rotates, but doesn't fire up), then I doubt your Neutral/Clutch Safety Switch would be the issue. 1g Autos have an inhibitor switch that is located on the transmission. This is not the same as the clutch safety switch, located above the clutch pedal assembly on M/T...