pick 1 of 3 sets:
$10 set is like new but I forgot what brand;
$15 set is satisfied pro ceramic, hardly used;
$50 Hawk HP Plus model HB214N.618 for street/track use, lots of life/pad left, not used much;front brake pads for various Mitsubishi/Eagle/Dodge models/years like
Stealth Talon...
4 konig villain 17x9 rims/wheels 5x114.3 (5x4.5"),
offset ~25 mm I believe, for 6" backspace
bald tires
fits Mustang, Eclipse/Talon (255 tire will stick out on 95-99), Lexus SC etc.
well used, not shiny like in retail picinfo from old web page back when I bought them:
Maximum Motorpsort...
Good idea but space is pricy in my city now, like 250 for 8x20 shipping container; it may also be hard to find a nearby open one for a car but maybe craigslist has cheaper private garages. Thanks
tow truck driver drove car 20 ft to give space and I did not hear/see anything weird; I think axle is ok and it's the beefier one for viscous lsd. I'd get 3575 - deductible if I keep it but repair would be 4k+
I'm in an apt and don't have space for it; unsure how far I can drive it so am thinking repair or selling are my only options =(. Value is $3900 if I give it up, estimate is about the same. Another hassle in CA is that a total loss must go thru new paperwork and inspection before being 'revived...
There was a hit n run on my parked talon and now it's a total loss per insurance. I thought about paying the $325 salvage and fixing it but don't want to spend hundreds on top of that and am worried it'll cost even more than shop estimate. The wheel points toward car center, so estimate...
I advise not to use an aftermarket upper front balljoint that's taller than the thin/short stock one; see other threads. I also have cut/rewelded front upper arms and offset bushings; seems like the best solution.
"Ive also raced off-road in my 95 Eagle Talon AWD...
Meet Our Team: An Nguyen | The Official BitTorrent Blogbut as I've been racing my m3 mostly in recent years I chose it not Talon for the pic =)
it'll be hard to reduce understeer on stock 2g; most 2g veteran autox'ers use much stiffer front than rear springs. More negative front camber like -2 or more will also help but would involve shorter upper arms, as offset bushings aren't enough.
for me, -2.3 is too little in front so I would not give any up on other side. I've raced/streeted for years w/ a front camber mismatch like your .6. Zero toe has kept wear even but racing will wear the shoulder more on the camber challenged side so I swap left/right for max life.
I agree and have used these pads on my ~3140 lb 95 awd w/ stock rotors/calipers:
Carbotech Panther+ now replaced by AX6? good for autoX and medium raceway, ok daily, dusty
Hawk HP+ good for autoX and light raceway, ok daily, very dusty, cheap, tends to squeak/squeal when cold
Porterfield R4-S...
thanks for this info! My 45k mi belt has a hole in between 2 belt ribs; the rest of the belt looks ok so I wonder how soon I need to replace it.
Thanks!
For 17x9" wheels, an offset around +25 mm will avoid rubbing assuming stiff enough springs.
Beware front wheel hubs may become a consumable.
Some of us who autoX run 600-900 lb front, 300-400 lb rear coilover springs.
Negative camber in front is key and I needed to employ 2 methods:
1...