Did you the pursue the cyclone manifold? I see you have your IM done in black which may have been in the works before talking about it last time.edit: "While you're at it", you should pull that alternator out and put in a Saturn unit.

That's as good as it gets right there.

Maybe not bottoming it out is the ticket, because I have a 1g here with the FIAV deleted and it is without question the worst mod to these cars I have ever experienced.

Check the connection on the TPS sensor.

How is the grounding wire at the battery ran?

Well. If it's a 2.3L you have the Loadscale wrong. In direct access, go to the loadscale tab and change the value from 100 to 87. You will have to do this with the engine off.

With E85, I run peak timing about 21-22* and all the boost until it stops making power be it out of airflow or fuel or ignition. You would absolutely without question be into the 10's by switching. Al Blaha was running mid 10's over 20 years ago with a fp red and a freakin' 1g MAF. It's...

Yes. You can run all the timing and all the boost with e85. It is jesus juice.

I do not know what that is. I used mirc for irc.dsm.org #dsm... I think.

#dsm was fun back in the day. It's probably completely dead now.

I like that. So 14v always, you use the hobbs switch to get it to 18v under boost. Have you tried higher than 18? I remember my JMS booster would allow me to go up to 22v. I wonder what the limit the coils can take.

No.

The 'bounce' is usually between idle and cruise, once you're past ~60cc/min nearly any flavor injector should be mostly linear.

Have you done this? I asked about this many years ago and brads (afaik he made the arc-2) replied:

Every setting you have is ridiculous. Zero out the fuel sliders. Zero out the timing sliders. Load in a stock SD table.

I had to use BR10ES plugs gapped to .018 with an arc2. I would get about 10 clean pulls out of them until there was some break up, then I had to pull all 4 plugs. I'd have a shoebox full of them after a year.Being stuck with a setup where we can't have a huge plug gap sucks so bad.

If anyone should ever have a Cyclone IM, it's you. Ideal for your setup and it would be set up properly with experimentation until optimal result. Sounds fun actually and I would love to see that happen. It also looks OEM for visuals/inspections and goes along with everything else in your...

Throwing more aftermarket parts at it will make it worse. Then you do more trying to fix it, then more, then you part out or give up. I've seen this movie 1000 times, I know exactly how it ends. Putting those 650s in I promise will be the final dagger for you.Put a 1g MAF in the car. The...

Your SD table is a disaster. Start completely over. Meaning put in a 'stock' table and don't edit it. If you have to add that much airflow, your fuel settings are wrong. You're using airflow settings on the table as fuel settings. Don't do that. I assure you, with your mods, the stock...

That is amazing. I would pay you way too much money for that.

If only there was a way to search the entire internet about putting a 3g master brake cylinder on a 2g dsm.

I remember seeing about 20 years ago someone ran 2 stock fuel regulators with success. I've always wanted to try that.

That is a BM (I think) top hat on a stock regulator. It's easily 20-25 years old. It can only raise fuel pressure above stock, never lower, which was the whole idea of us using an aftermarket regulator. I bought one at the shootout 5 years ago for 20 bucks for kicks, never used it though.

I have a few of these and they are what's up. It checks every box. Surprised the concept didn't catch on and evolve.

If someone got their hands on those panels and reproduced them, they could be a 20 thousandaire.

I'll clip the complete male/female plug off my parts car and mail it to you. Just PM me your address.

10# of crap in a 5# sack.

That wouldn't work very well with our -AN fittings to an unsealed catch can. DSMrs are so smart and frugal, then you see that trend. A waste of hundreds and worse than the stock system. And dare I say rice. Never understood it.

I haven't tested either way so I do not know. They might get you the general shape. Maybe a shape between stock and the one provided is better. No idea. All said and done though the numbers simply won't be correct. Keep in mind deadtime is largely influenced by voltage and base fuel...

Deadtime is an arbitrary value based on many variables. It would be near impossible for any dealer to say here's the values, drive off.If they gave values based on a DSM ECU driver, and said here's the other variables, and this is just a guide, cool. But to give specific numbers that are...

They sell injectors specific to DSMs, then include a deadtime chart of values obtained using a driver that is not found in a DSM ECU, misleading and confusing customers.

Just a week ago I was looking through his website on archive.org after reading through the 14b thread and wondering what happened as his [and toms] site seemed and still seems ahead of it's time, I then was happy to see he was still doing stuff on youtube. I looked through his video history...

I feel like I've seen brass sensors in aluminum housings since forever.The no-no, as I understand, would be threading for example stainless into stainless as that would give you the galling.

That's pretty cool dude. Did you cut it yourself? Where did you source the material if so.It looks like the gaskets I make for my bov and tb, you can get a 4x4"ish square of it at Homedepot Plumbing Racing.

Gasket over RTV always.

The Saturn alternator pigtail has a S wire that regulates voltage output. The idea is to mess with that wire.

Hopefully I shouldn't need another one.I had to pull so much deadtime after doing this I can't believe it. I'm going to mess with the S wire and see if I can get closer to 15v out of it before adjusting the fuel more and maybe do a global adjustment. I knew I would have to adjust but this...

I did that a couple days ago and wow. What a mod. I'm getting 14.4v at idle and the casing still needs a ground wire and I didn't run the S wire yet.

A relay is just a remote switch. You can use one the size of a brick if you want to.I use the Stinger SGP38 with the largest wire possible.

I snagged a super99 recently with the incredibly rare divided T4 turbine housing. My first thought was to get this manifold to pair with it, another thing I have been dreaming about forever but never had a reason to own.First thoughts. The design is amazing. The casting is smooth and you...

Same as a single tank, just daisy chain them or ideally run 2 wires off the relay. I'd use a bigger relay than the 1" by 1" square block usually used on a standard pump rewire.

I am only familiar with HKS cams. They are the only ones I'm comfortable dropping in without degreeing.

What wires are those? Was never a big fan of the blue either, but those NGKs are the top dog.

I have HKS cams in all my cars. Couple of them I used Evo8 springs, others are stock. The Evo guys say the springs are good to 8800rpm, I put my revlimiter at 8500. Never an issue. There's no tuning needed, just put then in. Mine idle like stock.

This is exactly what I did putting a 90 in my 92. Took a couple minutes it was incredibly easy.

I wasn't serious.I am curious why a tribute is on a 3g eclipse.

Strong way to describe someone's death

Why?

Rad.

Wow, it occurred. I've talked about doing that for 20+ years. The Festiva's weight off the dealer lot is 1595lbs [reciting this over the decades] while the geo metro's weight is 100lb more.