A pair of 90* snap ring pliers will do the job nicely too..

Stop spending so much on mitsu belts, I've been installing and torturing continental belts for years and they hold up just as well if not better than OE belts. If its good enough for BMW, it should be good enough for your DSM.

There's really no such thing as an indestructible motor, regardless of make or displacement.. That being said.. You can get close, aside from the obvious high quality forged parts, the biggest, most important issues when trying to make that kind of power are going to be critical clearances. Main...

Just so you know, most 4G63's are darker in that area of the head, if you look at the under side of your valve cover you'll notice there is a significant lack of openings for the baffle/PCV routing right above that spot, this causes a small buildup of hot, oil infused crankcase vapor in that...

If you're gonna attempt to mess with the surface, it should be lapped on a surface plate, or at very least a pane of glass thats not very old.

If it wasn't magnafluxed I don't wanna hear about how the head is "good". You shouldn't go decking the head either unless you know for a fact its not true.

Mickeysquirt is teh suck. There are so many more solid options out there. It was viable when we didn't have other options, but at this point, you can make a stock ECU act like a standalone unit, and it will blow MS outa the water.

Here's a link to give you an idea of what toe is.Caster, Camber, Toe

Torque wrenches are for squares, I never use them, when its that important they get gauged for stretch. Just put a good amount of tension on it, the important part is spacing on the hydraulic tensioner rod. I use angled snap ring pliers to set the pulley tension, using a small tool will ensure...

That's true, but it happens MUCH slower, bad toe will ruin tires in very short order.

Don't put too much into the 20 mile theory. I've seen cars with unseated rings and a few hundred miles to a 1k miles seat rings and pick up compression after a good hard dyno session. Eddy brakes are wonderful things.

Camber doesn't wear the edges of your tires, improper toe does.

You'd be surprised at what would bolt up, I've seen people run 20's on their 2g's. I personally got a set of old school, staggered Volk/Ray's wheels off of a Supra in a trade. Didn't figure the offset would be right, but they bolted right up to my FWD 1G, in reverse stagger order, of course.

Not sure on the trannies, I do my own tranny work, but its not something I would recommend without a full detailed knowledge of how your transmission operates, and experience. I've seen a lot of people try to do their own and get it back into the car to find out not all the gears engage, or its...

It really depends on whether or not you wanna push its potential, but I would say 750's at the very least.

Go with a flash ecu, either 98/99 or a 1.5 Mirage ECU, or a late model lancer ecu will work just like an EVO 8 with the exception of two pins being moved. And they are cheap, after that you tune for free, and the free software is nice too.

If it didn't leak and it was just a looks thing, you may get away with rerouting a little and flipping the IC to put that pipe behind instead of in front, hard to say if you could do it because I can't see the orientation of the outlet on the other end tank. So long as its straight out it should...

If it really worries you, you could also put an extra 1/4-1/2 quart in it and see if that brings it up any. Just remember, its not so much pressure that lubricates and keeps bearings protected, but actual volume of flow that does the job.Like stated above, check it with a real gauge and be...

Just keep in mind, that wet testing can cause compression numbers to be very erratic unless you know exactly what you are doing. So it very well still may be in the head depending on what you came up with. Dumping oil into the plug holes usually gets trapped sitting in the dish on top of the...

Yeah, well aware of how compressors work. You would obviously HAVE to turn down the regulator or you're gonna see 100psi plus. I didn't say it wouldn't work, I was just recommending the proper tool for the job.And I'm seriously inclined to argue with you about the boost controller theory...

Looks like the machine shop assembled your block. Did they by chance give you specs on clearances? When looking to make 500hp, you need to make sure your engine is up to the task, and just doing an OEM build with aftermarket parts doesn't mean your engine is going to handle that kinda power...

My advice on testing the actuator would be to do it with a mity-vac, then you know exactly where it opens and you aren't just pressurizing the crap out of it with a compressor.

Dude.. look, go get a coat hanger and cut a straight length then fold it in half, stick the two ends in the holes and rotate pulley clockwise as much as you can, then tighten the bolt, release the hydraulic tensioner and you're done. If you did it right your tensioner arm will be extended the...

Its common practice to have and offset a half tooth to get them aligned right once they get tension, so not too much to worry about on that one. Did you follow the hydraulic tensioner adjustment procedure, and verify the rod was extended properly? (not likely the cause, but can't hurt to be sure)

the holes are on the outside to use a tool and set the tension on the pulley. If you refer to the VFAQ picture it will give you an idea of position. But it seems these guys already said where it should be. Its not a "this particular position" kinda thing though, it needs to be in the posistion...

To answer the question, no, that's not a normal noise. You positive its the belt making the noise? If so, it wouldn't hurt to take it off and inspect it, pull your pulleys off and inspect them too, as well as their mating surfaces to the block, making sure their is no foreign debris causing...

After grinding it down its gonna rust being steel it will rust really fast, gonna have to prime it after the weld to stop it. Then maybe a nice glossy paint.

90's V8 Ford Thunderbirds had 8.8 IRS rear ends.

Actually the 20g is the biggest mitsu turbo that most DSMers use, but its not the biggest turbo MHI manufactures.And uh, what MAF? I don't see one..

I've searched this to death and can't find anything, I find lots of this problem on a 2g, but the suspensions being different I didn't think it would be the same.I just installed new vogtland lowering springs with a brand new set of shocks, springs have not been broken in, but they are...

the 4G61t was 1.6l not 1.8.1.8 performance motor was the 4G93 I believe.

Could be a custom burnt EPROM chip.

Yeah, Nippon Racing is definitely some sort of knockoff compay looking to capitalize from the Nippon name. I recently ran into this same thing when one of my friends with a honda was telling me about Nippon Racing parts he got, and I was like "there is no nippon racing, NPR means Nippon Piston...

Well yeah, in Rancho Cucamonga a car like that is a give away item.. hahah. Nice score.

Yeah, I've seen both versions of EPROM and non EPROM in 90 and 91. Always worth checking.Then of course you have the option of eprom conversion now.

I NEVER advocated ebay brakes, rotors, or pads. I simply told him not to let the general hatred for ebay make the decision, i told him to do the research and find out THE TRUTH, that's all. I've seen people pay ridiculous amounts of money for parts when they could have bought the same darn thing...

You can go with the EVO III 16g, and then if you want to upgrade in the future, you can always turn it into a 20g really easily.

What?? Did I say to buy these things? Again, did you read before you posted, or are you skimming?Just nevermind, man, you are clearly having severe problems interpreting my posts.

Good grief.. Did you even read my post? I don't only use ebay parts, what I was saying is that I do buy ebay parts all the time, that doesn't mean my whole car is ebay, it simply means I do USE ebay parts, but I also buy/sell vehicles so that's where the volume comes from. I clearly stated that...

It really amazes me to see the pure hatred for anything that comes from ebay.. Knock on wood, I've never had a problem with any of my ebay bought parts, and I buy lots from there.. You just have to know what you can get away with being cheap on, and if you are gonna buy something cheap, do your...

The amount of money for the swap could be next to nothing if he's skilled and has sources for parts. I'm sorry to be rude, but it drives me crazy to see that band wagon response "you can do anything with enough money and fabrication and blah blah blah" / "it'll cost you sooo much to swap in that...

I don't understand why 95% of the tuners crowd treat fwd's like they are garbage.. The AWD cars aren't nearly what we make them out to be, and yes, I've owned several. I honestly prefer the fwd DSMs in 9 out of 10 scenarios, snow being about the only time I'd prefer the AWD, or that rare...

Gave $450 for current 1g in stock form with low compression. Its undergoing a build right now. I posted in this thread like back in 02, can't believe its still going, I still get the updates from STILL being subscribed.

You may also add to that, while advocating the tape, the biggest mistake people make is wrapping it the wrong way, on a standard thread you want to wrap in counter clockwise direction, so it pulls to the fastener while being threaded instead of loosening and trying to bunch up.

If I'm not mistaken.. Its a banjo fitting for the feed, they use two copper crush washers to seal, you don't need to put any kind of sealant on the threads.

Yeah, but you have to think about the time it takes the rings to make up for minor bore distortions after everything is bolted together. And yes, this happens torque plate or not.

Unless the BOV was leaking horribly, venting is only gonna cause it to run rough in between shifts, and in vacuum situation where the valve is actually open. Under acceleration, that valve should be closed and the computer is none the wiser.Oh and by the way, I'm willing to bet you have a fair...

Why are you guys so quick to tell him its not gas? A chimp could tell the difference between gas and coolant. Just because he made a random stab at head gasket because he's obviously boggled, doesn't mean that It's definitely the HG and therefore what he's seeing in the exhaust is not gas but...

I suppose I'm just lucky in that aspect then.. Out of my 4 turbo 1g's I've yet to have one with leaky TB seals. I've run into every other kind of boost leak you can think of though. That's why I figured it was less common for those to go. Who knows.

It really depends, are yours definitely leaking? Honestly I rarely see them leak, even in 150k mile plus cars.To answer your question though, you'd probably be best off to contact a parts supplier for the manufacturer of the throttle body itself. Now if I wasn't so foggy tonight I would be...