It was an airflow issue. I pulled my MAF and cleaned it up with some intake cleaner. no issues anymore.

thanks for the replies. I will do that once I get to work. Only thing I don't understand is if it was the TPS, shouldn't that set a code aswell?

whats up everybody.I'm having a bit of a problem and am getting pretty frustrated. it's a 91 talon tsi awd and i'm having stuttering issues between 2000-3500 RPM. The car idles rough, i can give it a bit of gas and it'll start to rev up to about 1500, then basicly stops reving around 2000...

forgot to add, i performed the transfer case recall with a new yoke, could that be the cause of this driveline vibration?

Drove the car home today. Almost all good except for a few minor things that seem normal, i just wanna make sure. Theres a vibration that starts to come in about 110km/h and gets progressively worse to about 125km/h I did have to remove the driveshaft but i marked everything and put it back...

On a 2g it may not be adjustable, but i have a 1g. Heres the VFAQ on how to center it, http://www.vfaq.com/mods/shifter3.html. i just need somebody to elaborate a little on how to fix side to side movement when everything seems centered.

trans is in the car, goes into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th easily. but 5th and reverse cannot be engaged from inside the car. If i pop the hood and pull up on the shifter lever, i can get it into 5th and reverse. I assume that an adjustment on the shifter base should suffice. Also the shifter...

Trans is together, gave it a spin in all gears, and it seems to shift great. It's now mounted to the engine ready to drop into the car. I'll let everybody know if it works as well under driving conditions as it seems to on the bench.

Sorry, Didn't mean it to come off as rude, as I re-read i realize that i was. but it's a little bit of the pot calling the kettle black i think. i get a little sick of answers like "Dude, eBay. seriously", especially when people havn't checked themselves, which happens a lot around here...

Look, i know you are trying to help but please read my posts before posting a solution that makes no sense to the situation. I am looking for a REAR sway bar end links, not a FRONT sway bar links. As for the ball joints, I realized though VFAQ that yes, they are the same, but no i will not...

Have you searched eBay? becuase I did and could not find any ball joints specific for a 1G rear. And could not find swaybar end links at all. But Thanks :rolleyes:I ended up buying the toe adjusting bolts from the dealer, only 7 bucks a piece. I found on the VFAQ short tips section...

cool, i actually have a tool that a friend made up that will work perfectly. its an old clutch spline welded to a piece of flat stock. i used it to hold the input shaft to torque the 32mm nuts but i guess it'll work for spinnin the trans too. thanks.

trans is all together. The gear clusters spin without binding. Seems to shift gears too. Is there any good way of testing a trans without putting it into the car. If there is something wrong i don't want to have to pull it out again.

Ok, so i went to every part store in town, aparently there is no aftermarket ball joints or sway bar end links. I went to the dealer and 67.50 per side for the end links, and 145.20 for the ball joint (it comes as the whole lower control arm).The ball joints I think i'll just leave, they...

I am installing energy suspension bushing kit and I broke the rear trailing arm cam bolts (the one that adjusts toe) does anybody have a part number, aftermarket or OEM. I checked at work and can't find anything.I also need a p/n for the lower ball joints on the rear, as well as a sway...

I've got a set of KYB AGX's comming and allready have sprint springs 2" drop front and rear. I need some bumpstops and I was looking at energy suspension's universal stops. My question is...which bump stop should i use? http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/sk_bsp1.html (see the bottom of the...

Found a picture showing where the oil guides go.

Ok, the gear clusters are all together, all races are in place. I just can't figure out one thing. Where do the oil guides go. The service manual doesn't have a very good picture. If anybody can tell me (or better yet, show me with a pic) that would be awesome. Thanks

Never got my parts though JNZ, said it was lost in the mail but becuase they shipped it as a gift though the USPS (which i did not ask for) there was no insurance on a 500 dollar order. They are still trying to find it but said it could take 3-4 months. I asked for a refund and they said no...

Cool, thanks for the advice; i figured the solder didn't matter too much, as long as its thick enough to crush down to get a measurment. As for the fluid, the manual recommends 80W-90 Gear Oill; but from the sounds of it, most people (including myself) ran BG Synchroshift (hard to get in...

so unfortuantly i am still waiting on my parts. should be here any day. Just wondering what kind of break in prodcedures there are (easy driving, fluid change, fluid type ect). also any answers to my previous post would be great too. Thanks.

well, i've got about 2 weeks until my second gear arrives and I can start putting things back in the case. I was talking to a local tranny shop and they said with almost all their manual transmission that come into the shop, they reuse the shims that already installed, they just put new...

yeah, for the center shaft is Canadian, the dealership couldn't believe it either. Hell, i could probably have one machined up for less! and i tried JNZ, but they don't have a center shaft listed. I'm actually waiting for a few parts from them including my double synchro second...its been...

ok, got some pics of worn parts, can i get some opinions on wheather to replace or what I can get away with. (pics below)Output shaft - I was quoted from the dealer 397 + 14% tax plus freight for it, basicly going to come out to 500 bucks. Mitsu Graveyard has a 22 spline shaft and female...

Well, turned out i got a FWD kit insted of an AWD kit. new kit should be here in a day or 2.As for the outer race that was stuck in the case, we just used a torch and heated the aluminum around it to 200*F and it lifted right out. As for the inner races stuck on the shaft, took a die...

few more questions. My rebuild kit did not come with diff bearings. Also came with 1 seal that looks a little different than the others. THe output shaft seals that came off the trans were different (same dimensions, just one side has an extra dust boot) my new seals are both the same...

Tried the screw drivers, didn't work, the trans is back at school so i'm done work on it for the weekend. now when I said wear on the shift fork, i can't really judge weather its worn or not. All i see is a machine smooth, uniform finish on the tips of the fingers. i don't have a new one to...

yeah, i found that one, those snap rings have a ton of tension on them.I'll give that a shot, some of those bearings are damn tight on there, on the force gauge it goes up to about 4 tonnes before i hear a loud "pop", followed by and "aw crap", followed by "we're ok"They never really...

Yeah, thats the exact tool i've been using (except snap-on :D ....from school...not that it works any better!) but i just can't seem to position it to get the inner race off the intermediate shaft. Its pretty used up though, the edge of the puller is a bit rounded, maybe i'll go at it with a...

awesome, I got the same info from a friend at a tranny shop. the contact surfaces all look pretty decent. Next problem I've run into is I can't get a puller onto the taper roller bearing on the end of the intermediate shaft. The service manual shows a the puller pulling on the rollers and the...

well, i've got the cases and shift rails off so i'm right into it...way easier once your hands are on it. My reverse teeth are warn to blunt points, but i'm told this is normal as there is no synchro, also, who cares about reverse. Could somebody verify that All other gears looks good, the...

Notto my knowledge, my buddy put a double synchro in his 91 talon without any machining. I've heard its needed on 90's but don't quote me on it.

Any suggestions, or things to look out for for a first time tranny builder?

So its all pulled apart and I think i found why my car ate its timing belt. The crank sprocket had 2 different teeth cracked, both around the bolt holes, looks like it was overtightened.

Thanks for the info, i've gotta go out and buy a better measuring instrument to get the ID of the sleeve on the perch. all i need is a 5", 7" or 8" length.

yeah, MOOG was the first manufacturer i checked. Not greaseable unfortunatly.As for burning them up, i don't know what happened, but the boot was torn up on each, and then rusted pretty quickly with all the salt we had on our roads this winter.

ha yeah...its not my first time. I'll probably write one up now that i think about it. This is how we did it when we stuffed my buddys Fiero with a Northstar, its the only way it would go in, and only way it will come out. To be fair, he doesn't have steering components to worry about, but...

Keeping in mind that my control arms were comming off anyway for new bushings, and ball joints, i found this way easy. If I wasn't doing the suspension work, i probably just would have come out the top. But I'm at the point of dropping the motor and trans and subframe onto the bottom frame of...

I'm about to replace my ball joints for the 2nd time in 2 years. All the manufacturers that I can get though work are non-greaseable. Is it possible to just drill out the bottom, and put in a self tapping grease fitting, to make them greaseable? Or are there other options?

I'm interested in making the switch to coilovers. Most internet Vendors don't really work for me being in Canada, having to pay extra shipping, duty, and tax when the product enters the country. I found a "universal" sleeve kit through Colman Racing but i need to know what dimensions I need...

no idea, being that they are from the dealership, probably pretty expensive. If i were to guess I'd say 80-100 bucks. Well worth the money though if you do any serious work on a DSM. makes a Haynes or Chilton manual look like a childrens pop-up book.

I'm borrowing a friends, but he got his from the dealership, its two dictionary sized books.

How did you drop the engine and trans without taking apart the suspension. As far as I can see, the CV's must come out, so the control arms must come out, which means the shocks must come out.... or is there an easier way that i am just not seeing

Sorry for the misunderstanding. I don't remember it specifically being there, so i must have reused it.

Yeah, when I i first pulled the motor to rebuild the engine, I pulled it out the top, didn't go too smoothly as I remember.

thanks, i might do that. I have Energy Suspension subframe bushings to put in anyway, so the subframe is comming out nomatter what. How did you lift the car over the engine?

I've searched and couldn't find any information, but is there anything really stoping me from dropping the engine, trans, brakes, shocks and steering assembly out the bottom by the sub-frame. I need to rebuild my trans, do the CV's, and tie rods, xfer case recall, i've got a leak and a in my...

I've got punches, gear pullers, access to a press. so i think i'll be alright.As for the transfer case, by bushing do you mean the oil seal at the tail of the xfer case where it meets the driveshaft? I got that from my local auto parts store. Its a Chicago Rawhide (SKF) oil seal. Found...

that was what i figured. Engine is comming out to do a tranny rebuild anyway. Thanks for the assurance

yeah, im gonna throw a new belt on and see what kind of compression i get with a proper test. Also i removed the valve cover and all the seating heights of the valve springs are correct, and there are no loose rockers when the valve is closed.