If it is stuck that bad do your best to work it out but I have had to heli coil more than one head in a customers car. Not something you really wanna have in an all out race motor but if you have to have it done your head should still be use able. Just be as gentle and careful as possible to...

I would agree with most here. 35-50 shot is "safe" on almost any motor obviously depending on age and condition. Anything really around 100 or more you are playing with fire. You will always find people saying "well I did it" but you don't want to be the one doing the rebuild because it didn't...

A lot of this information is correct and there is a lot of other information in this thread that is incorrect or just assumptions. We now perform cryogenic processing in house because we found it had such huge benefits to a lot of different parts and materials.We also race a 360 cubic inch...

I know the catalog says 1000 hp but we have built a couple motors now that have hit really close to that mark and we didn't use eagle rods. They have been proven reliable between 650-700 hp but if you have the money to build a true 1000 hp motor I would recommend putting in a little better...

You can run aluminum rods on the street but I think what Buschur meant is that the average guy will never check the rod bolts every 3k miles on a street car. Standard eagle rods are really rated at around the 650 -700 mark. If you are looking for something that will hold up to a little more...

You can buy them from me at the link below:Yonaka 2G CoiloversIt is a little late to ship them out today, but if I get the payment asap, they will ship from New York tomorrow. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks.Wayne

BC 272's are a great choice but they will be on backorder until at least mid january :(Wayne

Just so people reading this thread know, the BEP mitsu housing is meant for the people who want an easier install and still have an excellent performing turbo. Bullseye makes the extended tip turbos in a variety of different exhaust housings. Here is what is available just for the S258:Mitsu...

BEP makes the S366 in a bolt on dsm housing that supports up to about 750hp. That seems a little more than a 50 trim :thumb:

This thread here has some good info on the s256.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264201&highlight=s256Wayne

On a side note stock cams are about .350 lift so on a stock 1g intake manifold it would be about 223cfm. 272's are closer to the .400 lift mark which looks like it adds another 10cfm to a total of 233cfm

FFWD has it on there site linked here:http://www.ffwdconnection.com/intake_flowchart_data.htmHopefully thats what you are looking for. FFWD knows their stuff and all readings were taken off a Superflow 600 which is no slouch of a company either.Wayne

You can try new gaskets at about $3 x 2 gaskets or you could step up to the billet return fittings and pushlock style hose. Gaskets would be cheaper but it depends on the problem

I believe JET A is the kerosene but there is another fuel that my local airport carries (and its a small airport) that carries a jet fuel that is 100 octane leaded gasoline. It is about $4.50 though so I figure if I am going to run leaded I will just spend the extra dollar / gallon and run 110+

Ceramic is close to stock except they are low dusting and last longer. Sometimes improved braking but it depends on the brand.As for the other two McFox's description sounds pretty good.

I think the best answer might be that it all depends on the block itself. All blocks are susceptible to casting flashes,core shifts etc..... What you need to do is use a sonic tester to test the thickness of the cylinder walls. Most machine shops have them. It would be nice if you had a few...

Definitely get the correct bolt and do it the right way other wise you might hate yourself again later :)Also they came with 5 from fidanza so that must be for a reason so don't run it with 4.

I didn't see it posted earlier but make sure you removed the c-clips that hold them in because it sure does make it a lot easier to remove if you take the clip off first. Sometimes there is so much grime build up people don't see the clip :)

Which one are you looking at? The one that does stock and higher boost or the one that does the low and high boost but both are above stock setting?

If you have a not on the stud then pb blaster is some of the best around at breaking nuts and stuff like that loose. If you have problems after that getting the stud out of the head since it is usually a good idea to replace them when old and brittle you can heat up the head around the stud with...

Did you buy it new? If it is 20psi it should have two springs inside so maybe check for that first make sure yo DO have the 20psi springs and also make sure they are not damaged.

If you had bigger injectors like 650cc you would need to lean out some fuel but that is the case with 550cc's a lot of the time if you have the supporting airflow mods to need an increase over even what the 550cc will put out off the stock ecu programming.

I found the correct fitting but it is about 2 days out. It is a 10mm x 1.00 to a -4 but it is straight. It has a sealing washer on the metric end where it would go into the tial. If you need the 90* fitting I can get you a 90* -4 to -4. PM me if you want more info.Wayne

That wastegate should have come with a 10mm banjo and fitting that makes it kinda into a 90*. You should just be able to get a 10mm banjo to -3 or whatever and do it that way. Will that work for you or are you looking for a one piece fitting that threads in and is a 90 also?

SBR made 401hp on a vtrim on the dyno and I think the big 16g was close to that but not quite. SBR has the dyno run for that vtrim on their site. I don't see that turbo putting out much more than that though to be honest.

It depends what motor plate you manufacture but last I checked bushur racing sold a motorplate for a chevy transmission (powerglide, th350, th400). I believe he ran it with the 2 speed powerglide. Thats easy and cheap. You can get a driveshaft made up for about $150 with whatever yoke to match...

that filter should work just fine :thumb:

Fuel cuts whole design when mitsu put it in is to shut down the fueling system when the injector duty cycle gets too high (maxed out). I could almost bet you are very close to if not at 100% duty cycle and safe is around 80%.680cc is about as big as you want to go with an afc. That will work...

Your profile doesn't say if you have bigger than stock injectors but you have everything else you need pretty much beside those. You can reliably go as big as like PTE 680cc injectors on an afc. You won't have fuel cut then so no need for any kind of fuel cut defender. Use you afc for what its...

There are sooo many dsm's out there just find one for a little more money that already has a manual and save yourself some time.

I would stay away from that hybrid turbo also. I would recommend an S256 extended tip turbo. It will spool up at least 500rpm sooner than the BB 50 trim and outflow it by about 5-6 lbs/min on the top end. It is very close to the price of the BB 50 trim also. I have supplied both to my customers...

I know you are not in CA so you probably don't know but a lot of people like magnaflow etc... offer an obd2 style converter. Only problem is most are NOT carb compliant for use in CA (i know it is stupid) In CA on an obd2 vehicle you have to run a stock style cat or a certified carb obd2 for CA...

I will agree with that statement and yes P0420 is the correct code for cat inefficiency. Have you been running any kind of leaded race gas? I would think a new cat should last more than 2 years. If you need let me know I have a supplier that will rebuild cats and have carb legal universals for...

T9S1i: Here are the answers from previous posts. They should have it as something they can do pretty soon but it kinda seems pointless on a 2.0L or bigger motor.

When I spoke to Bullseye Power they said it could be done but asked a lot of questions regarding engine bay size, engine displacement, etc... probably to find the best way to make something like that work in a given application. The S258 that I sold with the smaller compressor cover was the same...

A good turbo for you I think would be the S258 with the smaller cover. I think this will flow about the same depending on how much boost you plan on running. I think that the extended tip turbos are already underrated as far as trim size goes and above 15psi they will flow an extra 6-8 lbs/min...

That is not true IPT. I just sold an S258 last week with the smaller cover on it. Bullseye makes the S258 with the smaller cover for all the mistsu guys who don't want to dent the water pipe.Bullseye will sell a S362 or a S366 with a smaller compressor cover if you want. You might hurt...

I have a stage 1 long block in stock at the moment that a customer put a deposit down and didn't pay the rest and pick up. PM me if you are interested and I will give you the details.Wayne

I would say they DO make an extended tip S362 because I have one in stock. It sure does look pretty too :D

It would also be a good idea to do some checking around and find a machine shop that has a 4g63 torque plate to use while honing the motor. You might not have anyone local but it would be a good idea if you could find someone.

I spoke with George from Kar King yesterday on the phone and he no longer has units in stock but he said that tre and shep both have a few units left. They still have the designs but are hesitant about making another production run because even though there were almost no issues with it, it...

I have heard of them before there is just not a lot of them out there in the dsm's. I am sure if John stocks them and is willing to install them in his transmissions you have nothing to worry about :thumb:

I recommend to all my customers to run the spring perch up until it just touches the bottom of the spring. You probably don't want to really preload the spring unless you are racing and have a proper set of scales to see what your corner weights are changing to. Anyways just run up the perch and...

I currently run the MAFT Gen 1 and an SAFC 2 on my FWD laser. That is my low dollar pavement beater and I added the SAFC later because I am a little finicky with my tuning and I just couldn't get what I wanted out of the MAFT alone. Just so everyone else is on the same page by v2.02 you still...

Hopefully I can be of some help to you. There are a lot of benefits to running the maft whether you are running it on the intake pipe or blow through on the UICP. It is a lot less of a restriction than a typical 1G or 2G MAF. If you run the MAFT original I would definitely recommend running an...

You would need measurements for any generics. If you are set on that piece I can get you a good price on a Tial but also as an option have you though about running a punishment-racing recirculate 38mm o2 housing. They are very reasonable and I should have some back in stock very soon. They are...

The Tial 38mm has a 2 bolt flange so it for sure won't work. The tial 46mm is all by itself it looks like

Looks to me like a Tial 46mm would work. You would have to measure the flange to make sure but if thats what it says thats my guess.

Thanks for the follow up. .611 to .612 is a lot better of a measurement and I can see a .001 variance due to some surface imperfections. To be totally honest you should be fine to run it and old school micrometers and depth gauges work just fine as long as the person reading it knows how...

Go have it checked out at another shop if at all possible. If not I would venture a guess to say its ok as I have never heard of that EVER before that I know of. It seems like it might just be operator error especially if he gave you a reading like that.