The design has been around for quite some time. The arc is only going to go to 1 "strap", so it really would not matter if there was 20 vs. 3 vs. 1. Plus more difficult to set the gap on multiple "strap" design.If they did actually increase HP it would be due to the fact that the replaced...
So I'm a newb and "don't know sh!t", I follow your directions and remove the wires and plugs from their respective locations...how does it all go back together? How do I know which wire goes where?There should be a statement (step 1) " work on/remove 1 wire and 1 plug at a time" or something...
So you want to slap a few cheap parts on a car to produce a couple of good dyno runs and then sell that POS to some unsuspecting newb for considerably more money than it's worth.Sounds like you're one of the reasons this board exists.
I'm always curious as to why people ask a question that they have no intention of following the answer unless it matches what they want to do in the first place.Why ask a question if you're going to do whatever in the first place?There is very little in life that's "absolutely...
On mine (and generally what I've seen) it will idle at 600F-750F, cruise at 70MPH = ~1200F and after a hard pull, top of 4th = 1450F-1600F.That is done on a stock 2G mani. in good shape (no cracks). 1st runner about 6" from head.Your state of tune will have a big impact on EGTs.
With the crossbow I will more than likely have a greater range and acuracy...so I only need the one shot, and it will happen before you even get one off.On a side...the OP's idea is not a great example since it's a totally different platform. A good example would be the Evo guys that took...
Not that I would say that it's a good idea or anything....but people doing stuff that most would not try or think about is the reason why you have a "turbo-boosted motor in your car" right now (plus a slew of other thing as well).If everyone operated "within the box", we would still be...
From you profile I see you have a 97...not so sure about the Talons, but on the Eclipse 2G-B (97-99) there is a safety bulletin for changing the grommet that the throttle cable goes through the firewall because of a similar issue. The cable would stick. Not accelerate, but just not come back...
And the picture from Defiant shows why the "ramp" type of gapper is not preferred...1. Harder to read/gauge.
2. The electrode can twist and have one side correct, but the other side is too low giving too small of a gap than what's required.
I personally prefer the blade type like this...
KD Tools 162 - Spark Plug Gauge Blade Type .051 to .635in.However, there is a wire type:
KD Tools 165 - Spark Plug Gauge Wire Type .015 to .045in.Both work well, just depends on what you prefer.It's also nice to have the electrode...
The first thing I would do is make sure any and all maintenance is "up-to-speed", and I do mean ALL!No, it's nothing glamorous as a new turbo, but all the "go-fast" parts in the world don't make a car that sits in the driveway any faster.
I've had a similar issue while using the K&N FIPK...When I first put my car together I ran an upgraded SMIC with original route IC piping using the K&N FIPK, also running DSMLink.When the fan kicked on during idle the air would "bounce" off the IC piping and hit the filter at some weird...
Can't see the link at work...However, if the front bar does attach between the lateral arms (straight) as opposed to the control arm (curved) it could do some good. Providing the quality is "up-to-speed" and you push the car hard enough (which should not happen on the street).As for the...
Looks as legit as anything else I've seen on the net. Contact info...address and phone.I'd just give them a call and speak to someone and go from there.
I would have to agree with both. Even a single gauge pod "hacked-in" would be a better location site-wise, for a few dollars more you can get a pillar replacement that will make it look factory.
OK, I'll give you that. However, I would still argue that the gains from under-drive pulleys whether from weight savings and/or slower running speeds, there is not enough "bang-for-the-buck" to make the investment worth the cost unless you make money from your car and need every .xxx to win...
Since we're throwing our 0.02 in....Both AEM EMS and DSMLink are quality products, hell, even the SAFC is a quality product when used properly. Each have their place depending on what goals you've placed for yourself.SAFC: good for 650s before the "cheats" start effecting timing too...
I imagine the advice would be a bit different if the OP had the front of the engine torn apart. However, since it's "buttoned-up" with only 63K on the car and no discernible issue, there is no point in opening it up again for a part that should be "good-to-go" for many more miles.I will...
I will definitely agree with you there.We have to remember who's at the helm...Ross Brawn, the man who orchestrated numerous wins and championships for Benetton and Ferrari in F1 plus a couple of other racing series as well. Now it looks like he's working to do it again.Ross Brawn is...
Probably referring to the auto tensioner...The auto tensioner usually either works or fails, there is generally not an "in-between". Not an emergency device, but "active" at all times.Depends on where the "sloppiness" is. It is perfectly normal to have the TB somewhat loose between the...
Brawn and Virgin only have the deal for 2 races...250K per race. Although they're trying to hash something out for the rest of the season.I wouldn't really call Brawn GP underdogs. After all, they scraped any new development on the 2008 car after the second race and started concentrating on...
A water pump is "scheduled" to be replaced every 120K miles. Most people just go ahead and do the WP and TB at the same time for piece of mind (I do), but it's not required. However, with the car being as old as it is time plays into things as well.The key issue is not "do I need to change...
He was correct...A lighter flywheel does not create HP, it just "frees-up" HP that would otherwise be used to rotate the mass of the engine and can be used further down the line to rotate the tires.It will allow the engine to rev faster, plus drop off between shifts quicker.They...
Sounds like classic TB system failure and more than likely you bent some valves. The only way to tell the true extent of the damage is to pull the head to see what's up.Nothing that a good head job (not the physical kind) can't fix.
As stated, the body parts and things from the radiator forward are replaceable. The first thing I would do is take it to a frame shop and see what's up with the front, if anything. From the looks of it, it might need a little "tweaking" to make it right. See what the cost is, and go from there.
1. I'd say you need to learn proper English, it makes your thread easier to read and understand. That way more people would respond with answers instead of wasted posts telling you how crappy your grammar is.2. Depends on what shop you go to for the fix, but figure just to pull and replace...
There is not any "one" good reading for the gauge. It all depends on where you're at in relation to sea level, barometric pressure, humidity...blah, blah, blah.But generally...at idle: 15-20 inHg
at decel: 25ish inHg
Know exactly what you're talking about...the inside 2-3 inches of the tire tread (not side-wall) is wearing down which would indicate negative camber. If the wear was on the outside it would indicate positive camber.You have a couple of things going on...1. Too much negative camber for...
DSM_PWR is correct with his list if all you're going to do is 300WHP (be honest with yourself).However, if you have the slightest idea that it will not be enough (and most do), go with DSMLink and a set of 850s minimum, 255HP (re-wired) and an AFPR, stock lines are fine.That way you...
I run Ingall's on my car front and back...works great. If you can find a knock-off that works as well, get them.The backs will be cheaper than the fronts.On a side...it's your toe setting that's killing your tires, not camber. The camber kits will just spread out the wear pattern if you...
While I do agree that with a smaller wheel less movement will be required to turn the wheels the same amount...it will actually take more effort to turn the wheels the closer you get to the center of the hub.
I would also look at the crank pulley.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/169254-when-replace-your-crank-pulley-harmonic-balancer.html
The ball joint "bolt" is a press-in fit. It is accomplished while tightening the nut, however, you will have to hold the "bolt" stationary while tightening the nut, otherwise the "bolt" will just spin thus NOT allowing the nut to tighten..I usually use a pair of channel-locs to apply...
The first thing that should be done is make sure all maintenance is current. It does no good to have go-fast parts on a car that sits in the driveway.Then listen to what Matt is trying to say....get a logger (and a real boost gauge), they're inexpensive and will let you know what's going on...
On a side for the 2G guys...The coil pack bracket is stamped 1-4 in relation to the proper cylinder that it goes to (don't know about the 1G). As stated, #1 cylinder is closest to the TB. Also, as stated, if you run DSMLink on a 97-99 you will have to swap the appropriate wires according to...
I wouldn't say FWD guys do not run big brakes, I was giving you feedback as to what your options might be. The biggest factor is not so much the rotor size (to a point), but what type of caliper you run...A floating caliper only has pistons on one side (inner), thus a thinner caliper from...