Age usually has a strong relationship to maturity and experience. Tell me, what's the fastest car you've ever driven, and driven hard? Yep, and that's exactly why you have no business behind the wheel of a 600+ horsepower car. Like the newbie forum says, don't go around asking how to run 10's...

If you were asking how to build a 700+ WHP setup then I would say yeah, you are a newbie. If you're doing or asking realistic questions age shouldn't have anything to do with it, but he definitely isn't asking realistic questions, especially for his age.And all the NHRA tracks here require...

Are you kidding me? You think falling down to 4000 RPM's with a big T70 on a tiny ass whackjob 2.5" downpipe is going to have any boost at all? To make a T70 useable on a 2 litre motor you're talking about needing to turn 9000+ RPM's and have a very good tune to make sure it actually spools...

Dare I ask why in the world you think this should have any impact on deciding which crank to run?

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1612I didn't notice my 9:1 motor spooling any quicker than my 7.8:1 CR stock 1G motor. Just my 2 cents.

Why is everyone hung up on efficiency? The SC61 might move air that's 5 or 10 degrees hotter than the GT30R, but the simple fact is it's MOVING MORE AIR, and if you have a proper intercooler you will make more power on pump gas with the SC61.We moved from a PT66-GTQ to a PT76-GTQ on a...

Sc61 Ftw

T3: .48 A/R, .63 A/R, .82 A/RT4: .59 A/R, .68 A/R, .81 A/R, .96 A/RThose are some of the more common choices. If you're talking .63 it's a T3 housing.

AMS is turning 8500 out of their 2.3L stroked 4G63's, and that's with a piston that's less stable than a 100mm crank in the taller deck G4CS block. In the grand scheme of things 100mm of stroke isn't that much, and I can't see you having a problem turning one of these to 8500 or 9000 RPM's if...

Here's a good link comparing some cams, albeit on a HondaThat's a smaller motor than what he's running, but it shows how big of gains can be had with some big cams. The "turbo" cams tested on that motor already have a bit more duration than HKS 272/272's, and the second cam setup just dwarfs...

Do not wrap that manifold. They are notorious for cracking, and wrapping them only makes it worse. Good luck with the turbo and manifold, you'll need it. There isn't anything wrong with their wastegates, BOV's, or intercoolers, but I will never run another one of their headers or turbos.

For starters, a Stage 5 wheel and a P-trim wheel are two different wheels. A Stage 5 wheel is a T3-based wheel, and a P-trim turbine is a T4-based wheel, although you can adapt T4 housings to fit Stage 5 wheels and you can adapt T3 housings to fit P-trim wheels. A Stage 5 flows more than a Stage...

SC61 comp wheel flows more and is more efficient, should make more power at the same boost level and spool about the same. If I wanted 500 AWHP I'd look into something big like a PT67, GT4067, GT40R, PT71-GTQ, etc. But maybe that's just me.

Stock so you can learn how to actually drive the car instead of thinking you'll just blow by every body on the back straight.

Exhaust is different too.

With the proper tuning at 20 psi a 60-1 will make more power than a 50-trim, a 16G, whatever you want to compare it to that's smaller than. It's not in it's best efficiency window, but it's still moving a crapload more air and power than a smaller turbo.

I'd run a PT61 (56-trim GT40 wheel with a p-trim turbine in a T4 footprint) with a .68 A/R tang housing.

I don't think it looks too bad on paper, lots of low speed efficiency and still moves a butt load of air on the top end. I had one on my Integra for a while and loved it, but people seem to be afraid of it with the availability of some of the newer GT-series wheels nowadays.

657 WHP with the T3/T67 on the stage 5 wheel in a .63 A/R hot side. That's on a 2.0 litre honda, but far from worthless. .82 HO is refering to a .82 A/R T3 exhaust housing cut out for a P-trim wheel on the same T67 compressor wheel. Sure, it frees up some top end horsepower, but at the expense...

If you guys look at the 60-1 compressor map it's peak efficiency is right around 2.00 PR, or 14 pounds of boost. If you're making 252 WHP at 20 psi on a 60-1 you're doin something seriously wrong.

I take the whole thread with a grain of salt if he thinks a couple points in compression makes the same difference as 10+ pounds of boost.

Pusher fans will be more restrictive and your car will run hotter. Only do it if you need to for space concerns.

There was a GT42R dyno posted on a 1.8L motor on honda-tech, it made 25 pounds of boost by 7500 RPM's with the 1.05 hot side. On a 2.4 you're probably talking 6300 RPM's for full spool. He said it spooled better than a PT71-GTQ .68 A/R, so it can't be that bad for what a mammoth turbo that is.

Have any proof that 4" is "too big"? Nah, I didn't think so. Go look at the Honda guys, they're making 800 WHP on sub 2 litre motors and they're all picking up good power by moving to a 4" exhaust. Some friends of mine in Texas picked up ~30 WHP swapping from a full 3" exhaust to a full 4"...

The 4 people I've talked to were running: GT47-88 turbo on a 331" motor, 91.5mm turbo on a 402" motor, twin T74's on a 370" motor, PT88 on a 306" motor. 4 people who went from a few feet of piping and an air-to-air core in the bumper to 10+ feet of piping and a massive air-to-water core mounted...

Methanol on it's own does make more power. Converting from gasoline to methanol on a car is typically worth about 15% more power, on a naturally aspirated motor.For one I personally would not try and push that much power without atleast methanol for a safety net. Two, I really don't think...

Bbrooks made 601 WHP on 93 octane/methanol. Not sure on the setup.super95awd made 521 WHP on 93 octane with a 2.3/FP3052.

Skip aluminum rods for a street car. They beat the living hell out of bearings and bolts, and yes they do stretch. Pauter, Cunningham, or Manley rods will all suffice for your motor.

If you buy it, go out with somebody at 6 AM on a sunday morning and just cruise in slow residential neighbourhoods. Helps you get the feel of the clutch without throwing yourself into heavy traffic and making you nervous.

If by "500 degrees" you mean like "200 degrees TOPS", then yeah.I know it's not a DSM, but on a buddies honda putting the filter in the fenderwell was worth 20 degrees in air temps on a long wot pull. Makes a BIG difference when you're sitting in there in traffic too, as the turbo would just...

It's highly unlikely to bend valves or eat up rings so that all cylinders read the exact same compression numbers. I'd attirbute it to general variables (temperature, number of cranks, weather, etc), but if you're going on a road trip it wouldn't hurt to do a leakdown test.

I've talked to people who have moved from a modest sized front mount air/air intercooler to a passenger seat or even back seat mounted HUGE air/water core with a TON more piping in mustangs and camaros and reported no difference at all in spool. That's a much bigger difference in charge pipe...

20 psi by 5700 on a 750 WHP capable turbo ain't that bad in my opinion, and it's just gonna get better with the 2.4 :D

The STS "GT67" is a Garrett TO4R P-trim, AKA PT67, AKA compressor wheel used in an FP3575. It's nothing special.

Is this the AS1025 (600 HP rated) or the AS1026 (750 HP rated) core? Thanks.

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=25985600 RPM spool with the .82 A/R housing on a 1.8 litre honda. 654 horsepower to the front wheels. Tell me again why he needs to go bigger?

For daily driving you could have picked a much, much, much better seat than kirkeys.

Set cam gears to zero in the context of his post meant "set them to zero" not "adjust them when you can dyno tune them". Look at his post again. He said it's not worth it for 5-10 WHP, as in not worth it period. I know LOTS of locals who feel the same way, and even people who have cam gears...

Where did I say they should use any settings Jeff may have posted and use those for settings for their cams? Evil_Eagle posted that it's not worth it for a 5-10 WHP gain and they're basically good at zero, and I posted that to show what kind of gains you can see. Even the Hondas he tunes are...

Just FWIW, here's a Honda thread on cam gearshttp://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1744&highlight=cam+gearsNasty gains all across the powerband from only cam gear adjustments. Hopefully the "Set cam gears to zero!" trend will start disapearing, because there is power to be had.

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=2330~550 WHP 400 ft-lbs on a Honda with the .82 A/R GT30R. Damn good turbo.

alcohol > water/alcohol > PropanePropane works great for Nitrous which adds X amount of horsepower. Methanol injection works better for turbo cars where boost, power, and therefore octane requirement rises as RPM's rise.

Hate to break it to you guys, but Pro M went out of business a little while ago.

If you don't make the power you want on pump gas add meth. It's nice to drive around with your motor drinking pump swill, then when you get on it you get all that nice cooling alcohol for tons of octane.

That's 1.7 points of compression, and a full point in compression is worth about 3% horsepower. Assuming your car is stock at 140 HP, it'll knock you down to about 130. Will you notice it? A bit. Will you feel like you're driving a stock geo metro or a yugo? No. It'll run fine on the street.

Another case of I ran them, didn't like them, and Web treated me like crap after I bought stuff from them. I don't see any reason to run Web's where they're content to ignore you when Forced Performance sells great cams, have great customer service, and are loyal to the DSM community.

Like others have said, avoid web cams. I had a set in my 'Busa and it didn't run well, and I have friends who have broke them.I would run the FP4's for a full out race car. The FP3's are proven 20 WHP and 30 ft-lbs over FP2's, and FP2's are just as good if not better than the 272's. Makes...

Don't freak out about a 1.50 rod/stroke ratio on the street because it isn't going to make your motor fall apart in 10K miles. I have a friend running a stroked B16 honda motor with an 89MM LS crank and B16 rods. 1.50 rod/stroke ratio just like the 2.3L strokers, and it runs a 0.96" compression...

A motor with a high rod-to-stroke ratio is more prone to detonation and doesn't have as good of cylinder filling as a motor with a small rod/stroke ratio. A huge rod isn't all good. Why build a motor like that, that will want to make power to 10K when you could run a 2.0 or a 2.4 crank and make...

No. When you go up in compression you have to knock out timing, which undoes any small gains in spool you might see.