Well, I ended up going with #1, the Amsoil Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4. Great stuff. Shifting is much much smoother now, and feels like a brand new car. I give it an A.

They are not completely useless. They give you a general idea of how rich/lean your car is running. Not at all good enough to tune with, but definitely not useless.And of course there is always the light show!!! :rocks:

A consistant 315-335 a tank here. Bone stock.

The service manual says 2.5 ftlb for the valve cover bolts, and 2.2 ftlb for the plastic spark plug well cover screws.(Which of course translates to 30 inlb and 26.4 inlb respectively.) ;)

Yeah, I noticed the light weight- but figured I'd get some suggestions.I am leaning towards #1. Though, I have read that some have had good luck with #3.

Since Amsoil looks to be offering some different products for our frail 2g transmissions, I thought I would give one a shot. Which do you think I should try? (please vote, but also reply with some reasoning behind it.)And, no- there is no Penn/BG Synchromesh option. ;)Links to each...

Mine made the squeek noise only on a cold start- once it warmed up it went away. I changed the drive belts thinking that could be it, but it ended up being the pulley that was making the noise.When the car is cold try seeing if the outer ring has seperated from the center section.

Its kind of weird how it seperates like that, isnt it? Did they make a revision to the part, or is the new one just the same old POS that I'll have to replace in another 80k miles?I'll post the pics I have of the parts when I get home tonight.While I was in there, I did the timing belt...

Crank pulley. :notgood:

Original OEM. Known for separating....

85k miles- crank pulley bit the dust. Oddly happened right after satan replaced the 3 drive belts for me, but unfortunately there is no way to tell if it was caused by excessive belt tension on the new belts or not. I had them check the crank pulley when they put the belts on and they said it...

And the negatives are? I've been using an aquamist system on my mr2 for almost 2 years now, and I can't think of any negative effects it has had.

:thumb:Best combo for someone who lives in a smogtest state, IMHO.

Hey there are a bunch of different ways to skin a cat.....everyone has their favorite method. ;)

I like the side mount upgrade and water injection combo....but thats just me. :)

Of course you could just eliminate all of this, and use water injection. :D

Agreed, cause there is ALOT of documentation that syn is better than dino. Some facts with those claims please TotalEclipse112.

Ford has a similiar piece, but it cools the IC itself(which would be alot more effective than cooling the intake pipe). Coletti patented the SuperCooler over a year ago.

I have a degree in mechanical engineering, and my minor was chemical. Trust me, synthetic is better than dino. The techical data sheets prove it. Just like I said though, is it cost effective to warrant using, that is a personal choice.Actually, Porsche does use it. In fact, it is factory...

1) Synthetic oil is better than dino oil. Just look at the specs- they dont lie. Now, whether it is worth the extra cash or not? I think so, but that is a personal choice.2) The "no synthetic for break-in period" is older than my grandfather. The only reason not to use it for break-in is...

Those numbers look extremely low. (Low, but the percentage of temp decrease from stock to FMIC looks correct.) Try actually inserting a temp probe into the intake stream to get the temps, and I think you will find they are much higher.The infared is nice, but I dont think it can pick up...

He was commenting on Megan's parts in general.Thanks for the input you have given guys!

Stock IC. But I do not think an aftermarket unit would produce a lower temperature than the engine bay temperature. Easy check- get a temperature probe and test your setup.The MR2 does have its UIP right ontop of the motor. BUT- the airflow on the MR2 goes from bottom to top, not top to...

Pressure test the coolant system. From the symptoms you have given, I still say headgasket.

Alot more expensive than buying one off ebay. Same thing goes for pretty much everything Megan sells directly on their site. Thanks for the suggestion though. :)

Intake charge temperature before OR after the intercooler is greater than the engine bay temperature. Wraping it would just trap the heat inside.Proof? Just order a temp probe like I did. I actually bought and used it for my mr2, but decided to do the same test on my GST.

Title says it. Looking for a good source for a Megan DP. If ebay bought, sellers name would be helpful. Lets keep it within the rules.. no self-promotions please.Also, anybody with this DP and the GReddy Evo2 catback, how is the fitment/mating?

Sounds like you want it to be a blown turbo for the sole reason that you can upgrade it. Unfortunately, I am 99% sure that the headgasket is to blame- not the turbo.Buy both and do it all at the same time. Issue resolved.

Props for the best post in thread, and also the nicest color 2g. :thumb:

Ummm....caring about your turbo has nothing to do with it. You are actually just trying to save time by not waiting for the turbo to wind down. If your pressed for time, I understand. If not- get a turbo timer! lolSome newer cars you can't even leave running anyways, because of the engine...

Wrapping your IC pipes in anything is a bad idea. A simple temp probe will show you that the intake charge(before OR after the IC) is hotter than the engine bay temps on the outside of the pipes. So wrapping them will only block the pipe from cooling not only the pipe off, but the intake charge...

So will normal operation. :D

I hear you...but I'm just trying to warn you. 11's is no easy feat. For those that have tried, no explanation is necessary. It's a live-n-learn experience.

Definitely water injection.Oh, and ALOT of cash....

I can give you as much info as you need if you get the mr2. So can everyone else at www.mr2oc.com. :)

Mechanical recalls can be performed long after the warranty runs out as well....but that really isnt the issue here. The question was could the recall be performed multiple times.

Obviously a TD05H. And I think CanadianTSi is right calling it a 14b?------------------------------------------------------------------- Turbolader für Mitsubishi, Eclipse I 2,0 i 16V / 4x4 (D22A) Motor: 4G63Hubraum / Leistung: 1997 ccm 110 / 150Bj.: 4/91-11/95Original...

Rephrase the question please?

That is possibly a false statement. They did not perform an alignment on my car after installing the new ball joints.I'm calling the 888 number later on today to see if it is included in the recall. (Although, not 1 piece of paper I have on it mentions covering an alignment.)I will post...

Call Mitsubishi Customer Relations at 1-888-648-7820. Have your VIN ready. They can help you, and are a bigger help than any dealer will be.

Your not talking about wrapping IC pipes with thermal wrap are you? Thats a BIG no-no. :nono:

The only reason not to use synthetic at breakin is cost. Why dump all those break-in deposits into an expensive oil when all your gonna do is change it at 500 or so miles anyways? :)

I had the recall done Friday. Everything seems fine, and didnt catch any BS from the dealer. BUT....Correct me if I am wrong, but shouldn't an alignment be perfomed after having this done?

I thought when they state "lifetime", they meant it could be performed ONCE during the lifetime of the car. Well, that is at least how Toyota defines it, and I am suspecting that Mits is the same.Either way, mine are getting dome for the first time today. :thumb:

I dunno- it depends on what you consider "best". I consider "best" new oem mounts.Therefore my answer = satan.

It does. But like I said, it happened in 1995. (Shoot me, I'm an old bastard.)

Get off your lazy butt- sand them down, hit them up with self-etching primer and then some duplicolor trim paint(oem finish). I did mine a while back and they havent even faded yet.I know what you mean about no time. But if you have time enough to worry about it, and then post too- you could...

I only use 0W-30 Amsoil in all of my turbocharged cars. Now that stuff is thin. :thumb:

New clips? ROFL

Getting to the FP in my GST- a breeze.Getting to the FP in my MR2....NIGHTMARE(you think Toyota could have made an access cover!!!!).