I've been a fan of this car since it ran at the half mile. It'll be interesting to see what it does this year...Especially at KOTS if you're doing it again. We threw an 894" motor on 3 kits in to the flat black Mustang to try and keep up with you... :D(j/k)P.S: I've asked on your...
I would wire in my own aftermarket continuous duty relay, and then use a toggle switch or the ECM output wire to turn that relay on and off. I'd advise against a toggle by itself unless it's rated for the continuous amperage a fuel pump draws.On racecars, I just use an aftermarket switch...
I wouldn't...Unless you're trying to break-in a brand new ring & pinion or gearset at the same time. That's a different ballgame.Properly seating the rings and valves are crucial. That won't happen properly without RPM and cylinder pressure.To each his own I suppose...I guess just do...
Yep, we've been involved in the event since the very first one when it was invite only.I do the electrical work on the flat black mustang...and usually handle a lot of the tuning. I wish we had time to test before the event, but shit happens. It was a blast and Devin is a cool guy...I'm...
A bad weld, too much stress on the joint from heat cycling and weight, poor material quality, etc. More than likely a combination of the aformentioned reasons.
Jeeze, the tech advice on that first page of the thread is brutal to say the least.You don't baby a performance engine during break-in. Fill it up with a conventional break-in oil(Brad Penn has some great oil) that has a high amount of ZDDP(But be careful, if you have a cat. converter...
You should have fun in Open Light. I've been thinking about doing a Group 2 car for a while now, but my scheduling doesn't really allow for it at the moment. Are you on RA or Special Stage? I've got the same username on both of those sites as well.
Well, I've been on here for 9 years now, but I haven't posted enough to bust out of the newbie section yet.Anyways, I'm looking to pick up a 1G this winter as a project to keep me occupied until Spring. I'm planning on doing a simple setup that will be able to go low 11s...Something that...
11:1 at peak torque and leaning out just a bit to 11.5:1 as you get to peak power. For cruising, as close to 14.7:1 as you can get while maintaining smooth driving(no bucking, etc.) 14:1 or so should be a good number to shoot for while cruising.
Did you replace or cut the rotors when you did the pads? Did you clean and re-grease the pins that the caliper slides on?Sounds like the brakes are hanging up somewhere.
Have a local fabricator make you a support out of chrome-moly tubing. It can mount in the stock locations, save a bunch of weight, it's still very strong(stronger than the fiberglass stocker), and it won't restrict airflow and free space around the fmic.
Looks great...All though pictures won't show many small flaws. But looks like it turned out nice.Get some pictures of it in the sun. I love the Pearl White(specifically the pearl white on the mid-late 90s Cadillacs).
You should be able to put them in the oven and heat them up. That'll soften the glue and allow you to pop the lens off. Then you can clean/wetsand/buff the inside and outside. Then use black RTV to seal it back shut.
Yep. I used black RTV on my mustang with no issues for 1.5 years(sold it, it's still not leaking for the new owner). Those cheap paper gaskets that come with most thermostats are junk anyways.
Sensor clip...As in maybe the sending unit wiring? Or the fuel pump wiring? If it would just crank and not start it sounds like you messed up the pump wiring.As for everything else not working now...Check all the fuses, etc. As well as the battery posts and connections. It's probably...
It works too good. It won't allow proper seating and wear of the rings as the fresh motor breaks in. Conventional oil allows for the hone of the cylinder to 'file' the rings and get a perfect fit. It has nothing to do with the oils viscosity as previously stated.Don't baby it at all...
The only way I can think of lower octane helping is because it burns/ignites easier. So you get a more complete burn of the fuel and therefor slightly lower emissions.
Just check the intercooler piping/throttle body/intake for oil...It will be obvious.If it was a head-gasket you would have cooling problems and problems with the coolant being pushed out of the overflow bottle.
Supras cut fuel if the boost goes too high. He's talking about the fuel cut defender which will prevent it from cutting out like this.What the thread creator was talking about sounds like it's just a poor part-throttle/low-boost tune. Easily fixed by someone who can tune good.
You can wetsand it if the clear is thick enough.(Use ~2000 grit). It still needs to be buffed after the sanding though because it will be scratched up and hazy...The buff removes the fine scratches.
Using some regular paint has no noticable effect on intake temps. As long as it's an efficient core from the get go, it won't lose much efficiency at all by painting the front of it black. I've already seen the effects first hand with a few turbo cars(with much more power than the average...
I don't have one yet. I've got a mustang that's quick, but I want something different. I've always liked dsm's..And since I've been reading into the auto trans' I've wanted to do one even more. My mustang has a c4 auto with a reverse-manual valvebody...So I shift it just like you would a...
Been a member for over 3 years now...But my first post.:)Since I can't ask in the proper forum, I'll ask here: What's needed in the auto trans for it to hold up to mid-high 10 second passes? I was assuming the performance rebuild kit from IPT with the nice clutches and steels, a nice...