Amen brother! This experience was painful but, I know how to troubleshoot every electrical part in the car now. As soon as I start the rewiring process, I will post that as well. I plan on keeping the wiring that is interior to the car unchanged but using a painless system for all my...

It ended up being the ground cable from the transmission to the chassis. I checked the resistance on the cable and it was reading 2 ohms. I cut the cable out of the harness and stripped the insulation off and found that the copper wire had that green patina through the lenght of the cable. I...

I guess I got a bad batch of plugs. Definitely takes trouble shooting to a whole other level.

This is the result of the problem with my spark plugs. For some reason, internally the electrode is grounded to the body of the plug. I do not know how this is happening; it took me a while to figure this out because I thought (as you can see by my previous posts) it was my ignition system. I...

SmoochDarling, I think you are right. For some reason, my spark plugs were bad. . . all 8 of them. They didn't have any visible damage so I do not know what was wrong with them. I did have one new plug though; I replaced it and cranked the car, sure enough, it registered RPMs on the timing...

Ok where to start; I used an external plug to check spark and I have taken the plug out of the engine and checked for spark...they both have spark. Next ground strap...I thought about that too; since I did relocate my battery to the back I cleaned the paint away from the rear shock tower to...

I apologize for the confusion; yes, the plugs will spark when I touch the frame, intake manifold or valve cover. The wires are good, I checked them with a multimeter; I have another set of wires and it is the same thing. I did check all the other wires with the light and it is the same result...

I don't know if this has happened to anyone, but I can't figure out how to correct the problem. For a few months now I could not get my car to start, I changed/replaced just about every thing that deals with the ignition. Today, I found the problem; I only see spark when I ground the spark...

No change, I am just going to replace the wiring harness.

I am picking up an engine coolant sensor tomorrow. . . hopefully this will do the trick. I have inspected and did a voltage drop test on every ignition circuit and it all came out good.

I just replaced the CAS and it was not the problem. I double checked the compression and I have 190 across all 4 cylinders.

I would like to bring this thread back to life. The same thing is happend to me; no timing belt issue. Piston is TDC, camshafts marks are level, CAS is notch-to-notch. My injectors are firing and spark is good but no start. The only cylinder firing is #4; I pulled all plugs and #4 is sooty...

Thank everyone for all your help. Thanks mental health, I checked all the wiring and found out that the diode in the instrument panel was bad. So that problem was solved . . . get three more diodes. As for the car still not running, I found the problem. . . with help from my wife. After...

Alright gang I am back. Had my box sent in and they found that a jumper was missing and modded the box so it would not short out the drivers. Now that is fixed . . . the car still wont start unless I connect the old ECU. Since the AEM box looks for specific voltages, I am thinking it is the...

It looks like it was two things: 1) the fuel regulator diaphragm was bad (replaced with a rebuild kit) and 2) the AEM box is bad. I swapped out the ECU for the original one just to see if it would start. . . and it did. Of course it was after I fixed the regulator. I will be calling AEM again...

luv2rallye, although I checked the fuel pressure regulator, I was able to disconnect the hose to the regulator after the pump primed to pressure. There was no spray of fuel. . . so I guess I will be buying another regulator. <All> By the way, when I turn my CAS all the way advanced or retard...

Yea, I thought that was the case but I sent it back to AEM and they said it passed all their tests. I switched it with my modded ECU and it still didn't start. I guess my next step is to test the wiring going to the alternator.Just checked the cables going to and from the alternator and...

Okay, here is my status: I took the fuel regulator apart and cleaned the fitting. The internal spring was good (still had plenty of tention when the compressed). Did not see anything else preventing the regulator to hold pressure. I took the alternator out and had AutoZone test it. The...

I have to admit, this is my 3X Autozone alternator. I will add that to my list. 9-out-10 I will go to OEM; AZ is not cutting it if my alternator is bad.

I am running speed density. The fuel pressure does drop to zero after the pump primes. Is there a way to check, I have an aeromotive regulator. I can't remember the model but it has a -10an inlet and a -6an return. I will hit the website to check. Thanks for the suggestions guys. I will let you...

I am stumped beyond belief with this problem. My GSX topped running and I cannot find the cause. A few months ago I noticed the car was having electrical problems such as the charge warning light would start to glow then go away. I was concerned that my alternator was going bad so I the...

You should be able to get dry ice at 7-11 or another convenient store. You can delete all the sensors except for the gauge temp and engine temp control. I also left in the AC temp and use it as a switch to turn the fans on and off when I have the AC running. I installed a vintage air AC since...

I would suggest to use Borla XR-1 muffler. It has a great sound . . . similar to a V8 versus a "fart can".

No, the tach module on the coil pack controls the Tach signal. The PTU affects the firing of the coils.

Since I am still noob status I can't post it as an attachment. PM your email to me and I will send you the schematic.

I will post a diagram tomorrow to help you rewire your knock sensor.

Steve is correct. Before you think about upgrading, you have to make sure that the car can support any upgrades you add on. First thing is to get the car running right in stock trim; it will save you any headaches if something doesn't work, then you can use the service manual to fix it. As...

For corrosion problems the best thing to use is baking soda with water. It will nutralize the acid and fizz the hard deposits away. Just like the other poster said, that is corrrect; just once you clean up the connectors, apply some electrical grease to prevent further problems.

Yes, I am pretty sure it is not the alt; I installed a new one and checked it for charging the battery and it is. I will try your technique and let you know.

Rallye, I just tried that. I disconnected the noise filter while the car was running and did not see a change. I also shut the car off then restarted it with it disconnected and still . . . no change. I am definitely stumped at what the problem can be.

Ever since my MSD went out, my coils (or power transistor) have been making a high pitched tone. The thing is, the noise doesn't begin until the car is warmed up. When I rev the engine up to 6k, there is no change in the noise. It doesn't look like anything is affected because the car runs...

You might want to paint the pod to match your car A-pillar. As for the a/f, even if it is a narrow band it is fine, as long as you don't tune by it. It gives you a snap shot of what your car is doing when you drive. But if you want to spend an additional $200+, that is up to you.

After experimenting and swapping out the noise filter. This is what I found out. . . that didn't solve the problem. After re-reading the service manual I found out that in order to read the pulses off of the B-03 (noise filter connector) or A-54 (engine speed adjustment connector) only the...

I will find out this weekend when I replace it . . . if I can find one in the local junk yard.

No, it is not the knock sensor. Yes it does have a connection that is routed underneath the intake manifold; the noise filter looks like a metal rectangle (underside filled with a black epoxy) that is bolted to the support underneath the manifold. The support has the metal hose junctions for...

I have an AEM stand-alone. 1990AWD is on point. I am going to the J-yard today and post my results this weekend. The more I think about the problem I do think it is a bad noise filter since I am not getting a signal from the stock tach wire, my dis-2 didn't work, and I am getting noise from...

After reviewing multiple links; I think the noise filter is bad. I have the same problem with my car; I am getting noise form the coils and when I taped into B-60 white wire, I am getting no signal. This week I am going to see if the dealership sells noise filters; if they don't sell them any...

But is there enough pressure to activate the BOV? You shouldn't need much pressure to activate the plunger.

Can you also tap the intake pipe prior to the compressor wheel to supply a boost source to the BOV?

Yeah, but mowing lawns would take to much time. But if anyone doesn't want to mow lawns to pay for the adapter, the answer is 12v.

I just thought of another option. If you have an AEM ECU, you could connect the black/white stripe wire to the 76pin on the ECU. I just do not know where to connect the red wire; is it a 12v source or a 5v source? I am guessing it is a 12v source since the device is a PWM and it is using the...

Has any one even attempted to wire the Ford IAC to the DSM harness? it seems that a few dollars for wire is much cheaper than an $85 adapter. Since both of the IACs (I think) are stepper motors, you should be able to feed the 4 signals coming from the ECU to the signal wire in the Ford IAC...

The A-Tech2's are sharp. I especially like the way the spokes flow from the rim to the hub . . . nice.

I used -6AN to 1/4 pipe fittings. I had to cut 3mm off the pipe fitting end to prevent the fitting from bottoming out in the turbo. To seal the threads, I just used high temp permatex. As for the water pipe, I purchased a -6an to 3/8 pipe fitting and re-tapped the treads to fit. Once again I...