You will need the resistor pack to go with the injectors as well and wire them up. There are a couple threads on here that show the diagrams for it. N/T injectors are high impedance and the 4g are low.

Seems you are pretty unsure about our motors as pretty much nothing relates to the 4g63 other than you use a turbo...etc. There are numerous threads on this exact question. You wont need head studs to run a stock engine. You also wont need injectors as our stock will be fine.Turbo Downpipe...

Just so you know the strut bars go on top and the sway bars go underneath. They arent actually the same thing. You just made it seem like they were in your title. Anyway, as Paul said, I have seen many different opinions on this where people put their car on a lift and let the suspension droop...

As everyone else has said there arent many options when it comes to tuning. MS is your best option but will require a lot of wiring and tuning which I dont think would be a good choice for you. Just get the AFX. It will be the easiest to do and you can see some improvement from it.

This could probably be my problem as well. Seems like a common thing. I have seen a video on youtube about it as well. 180,000 miles on the stock tranny isnt too bad though even though it makes a couple noises here and there. :thumb:

The wideband will have another sensor you need to tap into your downpipe (I believe its 2ft away from the turbo is optimal). You will have to check into that. You will also need to wire in a resistor pack if you run with the 1g or any turbo dsm injectors. Our injectors are high impedance. I have...

Tokico blue combo as Locke said sits the car perfectly and not much is needed to correct the rear. I think I got mine for less than $300 off a member on here brand new. The ride is great as well...to me anyway.

You might as well just go with a full 3" exhaust and not have to worry about upgrading later if you ever decide to rebuild and up the boost.

Just so you know there probably wont be any "tuning" with the set-up you will most likely run and the boost level you will be at as there will be nothing to "tune." This of course makes it simple and has been proven again and again to be reliable ;)

You wont need the injectors with a 12:1 FMU. Stock injectors will work just fine with the 12:1. Also the fcd will be needed. Most people go with the electronic one. The mechanical will need to be cleaned from time to time although I dont have experience with those as I dont own one. Make sure to...

5psi is a HUGE difference when youre coming from ZERO.

I have the tokico blue combo as do a few others and we are all very happy with it. I dont do any racing but the handling has definitely improved and so has the looks if thats all youre wanting. I think its the perfect height to be at...not too much wheel gap...not too little.

You can use a 4g63 exhaust you know? Just not the awd version.

Seafoam is meant to only be used in the oil for <100 miles and then changed out again. What would be the point in cleaning all the carbon/deposits off of your pistons, rods, and cleaning out the head if you just leave the oil in there to have that stuff floating around again.Change your oil...

Yes that will work and anything on Ebay will tell you the same thing. 1000hp for a 20 dollar part. Thats just how Ebay works.

This is all well and good and having a sleeper can always be more fun but I wouldnt consider having a "fast" sleeper is possible being N/T. I wouldnt consider Bulletts to be a sleeper and that is the power range you need. ROFL You can hear it from 20000 miles away. Not to mention the GIANT HOLE...

I concur. Save your money for the GSX if thats what you are really looking to get.

The spindle you can just take an impact gun and its off.Make sure when doing the rear rotors to take off your handbrake before you try removing the rotors.

Megasquirt wins and will always win unless you are just going for simplicity. Endless tuning options, running your wiring anyway you want, cheaper, upgradeable...Im sure theres probably more.I usually hate telling people to read but ummm...this has been covered numerous times with only one...

The names are in the top left...that was the car you just thanked ROFLAnyway...sfmu's are pretty hard to find nowadays. I had to get mine on ebay a while ago and I think it was the only one available at the time. It was still pretty pricey even on there but that would be your best bet...

No, I have already explained this earlier.

There probably arent too many that specialize in the 420a. You may need to ask the neon guys if there is anyone that they use. Any machine shop should be able to port the head whether or not they specialize in the 420a.

That is why we have to use an FCD which is for the 420a but you do not need one running megasquirt. We do not have a maf though as you are in the wrong forums. lol.

Well it is hard to tell what you said there and compared to your last posts....:confused: but you cannot run a 12:1 fmu at 15psi. Your fuel pump will not support that. You would be running 230psi OMG I do believe if that were the case and you had a big enough fuel pump to handle that. You must...

I dont have any comparisons but we use lexan for blast shields at work and it will bubble if heated to extremes but will not break/crack. It is not the most flexible though in small quantities. If it was something big such as a windshield, rear glass, side window it would work but for something...

Try these out. Bullett is running them on his car as I will be as well just from a different source. He said that is where he purchased him from which is a pretty good deal for brand new injectors. Should be drop them in and go. Also when using the sfmu, run a 6an return line if you are not...

12:1 fmu and stock injectors with a 255hp fuel pump will work just fine at 7psi. Your fuel pressure will be extremely high with this method but it has been done over and over again with no problems. The next simplest system to use would be the sfmu of which there is tons of info on 2gnt about...

Well I am not quite sure. It was when I first got my car and didnt have the time, know-how, or any resources to find the problem so I took it to a friends shop and he found out the problem. The only and final time I will take it to a mechanic.

I actually found this while browsing for my own machine shop. It might help out anyone who is in Ohio that could need one.Crankshaft Company - Ohio Machine Shops and Engine Builders

Theres a huge thread over on 2gNT about this and there are SOO many different opinions. Even Bullett was saying he uses something else. I put in the dealership fluid a while ago and it seems to be working fine. It was quite expensive but for the one time I will need to change it, I am okay with...

Why wouldnt it be reliable to get a rebuilt engine? You might want to try doing it yourself though as it will save you a ton of money and you will have the know how to do it again if you need or want. A complete engine rebuild(stock) can be bought for a few hundred dollars which includes all...

Definitely just remove the belt first to see if you can live with it. I tried that and it was a major pain and I didnt like it so I just put the belt back on. I deleted just the A/C.

I will be headed to the shootout on Sunday for the racing. Unfortunately I wont be taking the car though as it doesnt exactly have an engine in it at the moment :(I have also been looking for a good machine shop to work on my block around central Ohio but havent found much yet. I guess up...

Thats because the flywheel is riveted to your clutch which is called a Modular Clutch. There should only be ONE piece and then your flexplate. There is no actual stock flywheel unless you have converted.

No kit. Most of my parts I bought were used but I just pieced it together

Either turbo your N/T like a lot of us do or sell it and buy a 4g63 if you want less work.

We have told you numerous times what to get and you arent listening.450cc injectors w/6AN return line, walbro 255hp fuel pump, vortech sfmu <----- this is what you NEED in order to run your 15psi with the 450cc injectors.

Congratulations Bullett on the new record. Your car last year was quite the highlight when you first started it up and pulled it off the trailer on Sat. Hopefully you will be able to wow the crowd again this year with whatever car you decide to bring. :thumb:

Are you still saying you are using a stock fuel pump here because you shouldnt be??? Anyway, to keep the 15psi you are running, you will need the sfmu, not the fmu. I found my sfmu on ebay for $150ish I do believe.

Please do not listen to these people who dont have a 420a. If everything engine wise is running okay, you can run up to 12psi if you tune it correctly but most people like to keep it around 7-8psi on the stock bottom end. You will not need bigger injectors, afc, or e85. You will, however, need a...

For 15 psi you Definitely need a 255hp fuel pump and at least an sfmu. Then probably some 450cc injectors.

You will not need Megasquirt if you are only running a 12:1 fmu. This being because there is nothing to tune with it. You still wont "need" it if you rebuild and move up in boost but it would be the best option. If you are looking to keep it simple, just run the 12:1 and 255 w/stock injectors...

Just so you know the swaybars at MachV are ALOT cheaper if you buy both. $269 for both instead of the $169per bar. Ive got the tokicos on now and I would wait until you are done with installing those to make sure you want something. Depending on how hard you drive, it may just be what you want...

I got mine from a member on here for a good price. It was close to the $370 though so thats not a bad deal. I did nothing to the front and just guessed on the back with the washers and everything came close to the numbers I wanted (of which are also on here under the street low-wear setup).I...

I have this kit and just installed it last fall. Cornering is definitely better and everything feels quite a bit stiffer and not as much rolling which is good. I cant say about anything breaking as I have only had it on for a little while but I also just used the washer camber mod in the back...

Your local Advanceauto/Autozone can easily do this for you for free.

If you go back a section into the (auto racing exhaust) section and look at the rest of the exhausts being sold...they all seem to be 2.25"I don't know if that one is or not being that it doesn't give the size but I would guess it is as well since its in the same price range.

Personally I think the high rise looks better and more aggressive which is why I am in the process of looking for one atm.

Thats why he is a "wiseman." He is supposed to be THAT helpful. Plus it will help any future questions on what to check in the same situation.

I have that same manifold on mine, just bought separately from the same seller. The two center bolt holes on the bottom will cause some problems. The one under the wastegate you can grind a little off to make it fit but the other one under the turbo would take a lot of grinding. I didnt go that...