It's not like 3" DPs are expensive. I wonder if it wouldn't be easier (and cheaper) to bolt one of those up rather than fab up the WG you're suggesting. Unless you have them lying around, of course.

Vacuum leaks, TPS settings, BISS settings, throttle cable adjustment, stop screw adjustment. All of these have cause idle issues on my car at one point or another. The real kicker is that they're all related, so fixing one means going back over the others.

Also check the stop screw that the throttle plate rests on. I've had my idle creep from 1000 to 1500, and each time that screw was stopping the plate from closing all the way. Not sure how it keeps screwing itself back in, but hey.

This is a good point. My GSX is a reclaimed salvage due to an earlier accident. I saw the accident pics and except for some cheap paint the car is solid. It insures and registers just fine.

So I put the car into reverse, let the synchro collar hold the reverse brake ring, made sure the wave spring was lined up, and put it all back together. The noise has not reappeared. Go figure.

So I popped the cover. The snap ring on the VC is still in place, as are the two nuts on the gear stacks. The culprit seems to be the reverse brake ring. There's nothing holding it on the stack, and only a wave spring to keep it in place. When I removed the end cover, the ring was out of place...

Yeah. That was my bad memory.

LOL no kidding. I had a fiberglass dust mask from Lowes on under a full face welders mask when I was cutting my bumper. And long sleeves and gloves. I ended up using a jigsaw because my sawzall was taking too long ROFL

I can rotate the wheel a little before the diff stops me (since the other wheel is on the ground). I forgot about the coupler - I must be thinking about one of the gear stacks. Ugh. Would a loose nut match my description? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? I guess the only way to know for sure...

Highly unlikely. There's no chance I was able to keep the stock fogs with my VRSF kit.

I've got a loud clunk/knock coming from the right front of my car. It has gotten louder over the last few days. It only becomes apparent under light throttle or coasting. It disappears under moderate throttle or braking. It does seem to be speed dependent - i.e. faster at higher speeds.I...

You just have the core? You can get piping kits from a bunch of places, but make sure you get the u pipe to connect to the T25. Or do the smart thing and keep your sidemount until that 16g is in. ;)

Could be either or both. Run a boost leak test and you'll have your answer.

Unless the DTC just says random misfire... I was getting those codes too, but then I told Link to ignore them and the car runs a lot better. Of course my issue was with vibrations and a 1G CAS.

This is true, but if your car is going to see DD use, or even be parked at Walmart, I would definitely try to fit the crash bar in. In a REAL crash, you're in trouble either way. But when the jerk in the Expedition backs into your car at McDonalds, you'll be thankful for that bit of fiberglass.

I wish it was plastic. At least on my 95, it's fiberglass. A total PITA to cut as it melts and creates these nasty cobwebs of glass. I had to hold off until I could get a respirator, as I couldn't even get one cut done without my lungs burning. Grrr. Definitely some saggage, although it's not...

My only complaint about my VRSF is that it swallowed my T25 LOL

You must have gotten lucky. You bent more valves than me, and have less piston dings. Get those valves replaced and motor on.

That makes sense. You're putting the same amount of fuel in, but a lot more air. 10psi on a 20g is not the same as 10psi on a T25.

At least next time I will be able to get right to the problem area LOL

I didn't press the gears off of the shafts, but I did take the stacks out.I know, I know. Looked means nothing. My 3-4 synchro is probably on it's way out. The only way to keep it from yelling at me is to shift SLOWLY. Lesson learned. I just got the car back together after a month down, and...

I took mine apart in my garage when my timing belt broke, just because I could. Nothing was amiss, and I was able to get it back together without issue. It can be done, it's just not for the faint of heart.Actually, I took it apart because I had some grinding going from 2-3 or 2-4. The...

From the comments: "this was on some Honda forum and it was actually a DSM owner ####ing with the Honda kids. the person who posted this was banned from the site. lol still funny, but glad to know this was a joke and not someone really that dumb" Troll ahoy.

^ has a good point. I set my TPS etc for my 900 idle. When I was having a lot of issues it was due to my CAS/CPS wiring. I had gone from the odd 95-96 two sensor setup to a 1G CAS, and once I got it wired properly it resolved a myriad of issues. So a CAS/CPS sensor could cause issues.

I don't think the lighter flywheel is the problem, but it is certainly making it worse. When you depress the clutch and put the car into neutral, car should go into idle. Sounds like yours isn't. That's why I recommended all that throttle body idle adjustment stuff. If you leave your car idling...

It should be an option under displayed values. If not, then you'll have to make sure Link is tracking it by adding it to captured values.I mentioned idle because fixing that solved some driving issues I had as well. But it sounds like your RPMs just drop too quickly when you lift?

TPS should be closer to 0.63 at idle. Make sure the idle switch is -1 at idle and throttle position reads 0%. Your ISC should read about 30. Try to get all these values correct without using Link to "simulate" if you can. I solved a lot of idle problems when I took the time to make sure...

A Tali reveal? Man guess I have to get ME:3 now. I always planned on it, just not anytime soon. As for games, yeah I guess Borderlands 2. I've been so busy with the GSX I forgot about my consoles lately haha.

So here's a new log with MAFRaw and Combined FT logged. I know there is at least one boost leak at the TB shaft seals, and suspect another around the BOV.

I'm sorry to hear that. I had a German Shepard growing up. She was put down when I was in 2nd grade. I still remember that day, all these many years later. They're wonderful dogs.

Sounds just like Lacie.She'll be 6 this year, and even though I adopted/rescued her at 14 months, she still has a lot of puppy in her. She's also pure white. I thought of naming her Shadow, both in an ironic sense and since she was my shadow.

Well said. I'm probably as glad as the OP to hear first hand experience. I guess in a way they are like most pets - a product of their environment. I still think I'll stick with my husky :)

Oh I don't doubt that it can be the owner's fault. But sometimes it's just a random trigger - a squealing child, a quick movement, a showing of weakness...I really wanted one, but I decided it was too much of a risk. I like to know that if I have an off day, my dog isn't going to try and...

I guess it depends on the percentage. If it's mostly dog with a little wolf, it should be managable. I just read too many sob stories about situations where the wolf took over and it always ends in grief.

Short of tearing the whole engine and drivetrain apart and inspecting for wear, I think you've got your bases pretty well covered. And I give you credit for actually taking the time to do the maintenance first. A lot of people want to go straight to the go fast parts without doing maintenance...

Thanks. I'm in the middle of a BLT, so things are apart. I'll add in that value and pull another log tomorrow or so. Driving around I get 200 for coolant temp.

So I've finally been able to chase out most of the demons plaguing this car, and I took a couple warm/hot idle logs for people more experienced than me to look at.If there are some values you'd rather see logged than aren't there, let me know so I can log them. :thumb:

Well if you sit back and think about it, the key has three settings -ACC ON STARTYou want a toggle switch for ACC, and toggle for ON, and a button for START, right?So you just need to replicate what the key cylinder does with switches. Find a wiring diagram and go to town.

Probably. Find the biggest turbo you can afford, buy it, and install it on your dresser. Then follow the upgrade path. Haha

You mean an actual hybrid?Good luck. If you like living the life of a hermit in a minimum security jail, go right ahead.I used to want one too. Then I did my homework, and got a husky instead.

I'd be more worried about why your piston is hitting the spark plug...

If you're going to start pulling vacuum lines, I would REALLY recommend finishing the job. Follow the diagram here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.htmlPulling just some lines is setting yourself up for a world of...

That "thing" is the evap canister. I hope you routed the fuel vent line out of the engine bay.

SO yesterday I took off the TB, cleaned it, and re-installed it. I then turned off the Link TPS adjust and used the combination of throttle cable, stop screw, TPS and BISS adjustments to get the car to read 0% throttle, -1 Idle SW, 0.63V TPS and 30 ISC while idling around 950. It felt good to...

Having just taken mine off yesterday for cleaning, you definitely don't need to drain the coolant. The amount coming out of the hoses/FIAV is really minimal. The bigger issue is all the cursing that will come about as you try and wiggle the TB past that poorly located cruise cable box....

Wish I had thought to check piston rings before I put the head back on. Oh well.And my broken timing belt ended up over $2000. But it was really just an excuse to do a LOT of stuff that I had been holding off on. If valves are bent, expect about $300-500 for head work, about the same for...

I have to agree with it not working too well. The sensor isn't very well protected from damage either, being just some wires projecting into the coolant bottle.

I won't deny that argument for the sport/race transmissions, but the econobox autos aren't set up to shift where most tuners would like. They may still be faster than granny shifting though :tease:

According to CAPS, it would appear not.

Well it seems that no one so far has seen a 2gb with the sensor. I'll have to see if I can get into my brother's 2gb cluster to check for the light.