could have been anything really if its not connected to something then remove it. I can honestly think of 1001 uses for a switch. Ghetto amp turn on, ne0nz, alarm, ejector seat, hacking a speedo?
okay did you try to take the orange and touch it to the red or white wire? test light is fine in a 1g but a 2g is kinda sketchy if your just poking wires. a dmm is a digital multimeter and they can be had for 10 bucks at vatozone or harbor frieght or sears and they tell you exactly what is...
Black –Ground
Red - 12v ign. power-meaning power when the ignition is on.
White- 12v ign. power
Orange-Headlight switch.
Green - Sender
those are the wires for the gagues soooo
take the orange wire and touch it to the red or white wires with the car on and if it lights up...
t the radio the wires areRadio 12v
orange/black
+
radioRadio Ground
Radio Ignition white/black + radio
Radio Illumination green/white + radioand under the dash all the wires areConstant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition...
well if you want to make them higher resistance just put a sandblock resistor in series. I would think a 10 ohm resistor would stop coils from frying if thats what keeps happening.
Also make sure that the tranny and motor don't separate when you press the clutch! I have seen alot of cars with out the 12mmx45mm bolt that goes between the motor and tranny way below the starter
The switch is a normally open ground switch and if your tt works it isn't the switch or your tt is incorrectly wired. If it is on during the acc or off position but not on during the ignition i would say blown fuse or a wiring issue with the tt.
Gearwrench or a line wrench and patience. And your Oring probably has a chunk of dirt or grease on it and it lets water seep out. I've never hand one leak that was new and clean and at the high pressure it gets at 190* i doub't rtv would fix it.
+1 for the Gtp if not a dsm. Gtp's are Ok for a front wheel drive. Rear wheel drive I like old boats like the Lincoln Continental and you get a BIG ol' motor.
43084 Rancho Way #C, Temecula, CA 92590
951-699-1889 ph /951-699-1442 fx
Greg is a good guy and his work is top notch. I also know some private guys that do 6 bolt swaps and what not for a living the north co SD area.
I have a few dings in my pistons but that is alot of dings! Are you sure it wasn't a bolt in the cc or a dropped valve because some of those marks seem out of place from where they should or would be if timing slipped for a sec and you killed the motor. I wouldn't trust those pistons they look...
there is an O ring that seals the water pipe in it costs like $2 from mitsu just buy a new one. It may be possible if you removed your intake, j pipe and possibly the turbo water inlet line. And don't forget the bolt on the block. then you would just yank it hard to the left and if your lucky...
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/ecuwiring.html thats the ecu pin out its pin 18
and here is the vss adapter to conver the signal. http://www.gaugeguys.com/ratioesa.htm Have you considered a 1g cluster it would be way cheaper.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6523 look there
heres another http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4557
You could skip 6 and 7 and substitute this for filling the gaps http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,19985.htm
Imo he just made it alot more work than it had to be. He turned an hour job int a 4 hour one.
you can use the lc1 to sim the NB O2 and put a plug in the O2 housing if you want. Also you need a resistor on the heater wires but you'll have to find the value of it
Have you read the forums on innovatives website? Klauss is great! Here's a thread I found in a quick search. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5851
I have an ecu fried like that and my car still runs fine but idles like I got cams. Mine has one of the Isc driver blown up. After looking none of those drivers are for the cas
I have the rre flywheel and I love it for the price as long as your core is good. I just took it out during my new motor install and after lots of hard launching its got small cracks but nothing to worry about. I've put about 20k miles on it no problems yet.
considering I don't have one I"ll go out on a limb and say It "looks" as though it would work but with no documentation to back it up I'd pass. I have an older model of this http://www.dsmtuners.com/parts/product_info.php?cPath=2_140_81&products_id=390 It works bitchin
they can be replaced but you have to find them. Jeff might have some (<--- Keydiver) or possibly Steve but last time I asked him he had none. They are imported from HK or something an unless you buy a few hundred its probably not worth it. I have an ecu that looks just like that. You could just...
they goto pins 21 and 22 on the ecu connector c61 its th big one and I think the black one only pulses during spinning but my car isn't here to verify.
I was actually trying to find a place to host that cd
Maybe Ludachris would host it for all to dl for free
goto autozone.com pick any car and look at the rotors. they have pictures with all the dimensions but they are 200x200.try this one http://www.autozone.com/images/products/aim/aim31002003.jpgI found some better pics at this site with good dimensions...
autozone has pic of all rotors with measurements but I can't scale them or fix them to be able to read them. any one know how? http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1190382/vehicleId,1909601/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,2819/partType,00854/shopping/partProductDetail.htm
I have a 1.8l sticker on my hood and I've passed with it. All of the emissions stickers are in the Haynes manual I have but I would still just buy one and slap it on.
fuel injector drivers(little ics that are hard too reach) http://www.sddsm.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12511
dan can say it better than me. His write up is the bestest ever.
OK yes they all have a tt, the point of the Clifford is it uses an Intellistart module. It has a failsafe that makes it nearly impossible to start it in gear. Avital Boa Hornet Wasp Rattler and viper all lack this feature. I wouldn't install anything but a Clifford in a stick too much liability...