Well first thing first you need to do some MAF comp adjusting. Your combined FT is like -15 while at idle. Also try to adjust MAF comp so that you AFR est and Wideband read the same while boosting. Is your wideband reading correct? Is LINK and the gauge face showing the same number?

Pretty normal for a well put together car on a 6466 to make 900hp on a dynojet. We made 860hp in a EVO8 with a ported intake manifold and throttle body. The car was fully built but i was still amazed at the numbers.

That is a stock N/T throttle body. The blade diameter is 60mm same as a turbo throttle body.

I did this on a customers drag 2g and it has worked perfect for 2 years of low 9 high 8 sec passes.

I do not see any alarming wear on any of the parts. Typical for I high milage motor.

I have a shop in Bloomingdale,IL If you need help you can just contact me. I burn chips as well if your looking for a easy route.

It looks like if you just get rid of that 17.2 scalar and fix the global and deadtime your maf comp curve should stay the same. Just start rich and work your way back down.

I also just noticed you have a -17.2 on your global scalar. That means your starting with -17.2 on all points of the MAF comp table. I would reset that back to 0.

Your Global fuel and deadtime are off. Look at your boost EST its reading 8psi when you say your running 24psi. I would start with -34 global and 300-400 deadtime. Make sure you lower the boost and timing and readjust the MAF comp table try to line up Boost est and A/F est. You will need to...

Guys liquid filled gauges have a temperature/pressure indicated variance. When the engine bay is hot it will read different then cold. As long as you set it cold and it stays in the same place when cold there is nothing to worry about. I ran into this years ago and after some research found it...

If you do not have the rubber sleeve then you have a massive boost leak around the valve.

Are you on SD or a MAF? Boostest will read higher then actual boost if your VE goes over 100%. Or if you add too much compensation in your maf comp table.

8550xx is the correct part number for wiseco .020 oversized pistons.

The banjo bolts that hold the coolant lines are 22mm or 7/8".

You have to understand i run a small DSM shop and deal with these cheap products on a daily basis. I have little to no patience for these products anymore. I was not trying to talk down to the OP i just saw a ebay j-pipe and the bolt holes were to close together. And to me the obvious answer is...

Do not be mad at me be mad at ExtremePsi for selling a overseas product and not even checking fitment. In the end its your job as a informed consumer to look at what your buying. If you wanted a great fitting J-pipe ETS,Punishment,Dejon would have fit the bill perfect.

I do not care who sold it to you. That is a Chinese made Pipe that's why it fits bad.looks the same to me http://www.ebay.com/itm/TD05-16G-20G-J-PIPE-OIL-FEED-LINE-TURBO-INSTALL-KIT-90-99-ECLIPSE-TALON-DSM-4G63-/350593205734?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a0fbc5e6&vxp=mtr

Big surprise your Ebay j-pipe does not fit. You need to elongate the holes so it will work. Cheap j-pipe=mortifications to make it work.

It needs to be coaxed off gently. Force will only make it bind up. I usually use 2 long flat head screwdrivers across from one another. and pry up in a smooth motion.

I just switched the pins on the IAC plug. The lower row left and right side need to be switched. So you are correct the black and white need to be swapped. Everything is good now idle is perfect.

I just found this problem last night. I was working on a 1990 talon and it has a 91-94 throttle body and when the IAC is plugged in the car idles very high. After checking everything out turns out the ISC is working backwards. So i need to find out what pins need to be switched.

A nice number for ring gaps under 600hp is .020 top and .022 on bottom.

boostin tested them on a evo9"Here's a comparison between a set of Jun 272 Evo 9 Cams and a set of GSC S3 Evo 9 Cams. The boost level is the same (40 psi). The only change in this test were the cams."

His car was mostly built in his garage. He is also on a tight budget and can not afford to blow up motors chasing records. He loves to just run the car on test/tune days that's about it. But this is not his first fast DSM. And with all the DSM community in the area it helps a lot. I...

This is my good friend/Shop techs car and this year consistently ran between 9.2-8.9et. And we have the car setup so it can do that 100 times without blowing up. The car now sports one of my aluminum long rod 2.0 9.0cr motors. It struggles to stall on the converter since this post it has been...

You want to try and get your af-est to line up with your wideband. The best way to do this is to log your wideband. Once you have a clean pull go in the log and find the spots that the wideband and af-est do not line up. In thouse areas look at your hz level and go onto your maf comp tab and...

Over the past 3 years I have built 3 R&R aluminum rod motors. All 3 motors are still running without ever opening them up. And these are not normal cars one is a 2g auto car with 30 low 9 sec runs and one 8.9et. One is a daily driver 1g auto that runs mid 10s. And the 3rd was my personal motor...

Troll. /\

That pic is of a automatic t-case witch has 6 bolts holding it. A 5-speed case is similar but has only 5 bolts. The only reason I bring it up is if the op is auto he will miss removing 1 bolt and be confused why the t-case will not come off.

Car was on E85 1200cc pte injectors and a 255 walbro.This is my DD AWD beater. My other car is a FWD but is now in a million pieces until i figure out what i am going to do with it.

Well i have been dying to get my DD talon to the track. I loaned some slicks and gave it a whirl. I was still spinning the slicks and did not realize that they were at 23psi until i was taking them off. They were supposed to be at 18psi but the gauge was off. I am pretty happy with the times...

Ok as a last ditch effort I put a stock intake cam in. Low and behold compression is now holding fine with all rockers in place. I have driven the car and all is good. I have a hard time believing the crower 272 is to blame but that's how its looking.

well got the head back today. I put it on and it did the exact same thing as last week.I am at a loss. I think i am going to just build a new head and see what happens. Only thing i can think is the head is tweaking when torqued down causing a valve to not seat.

The car came to me with all the emissions related stuff deleted and a few things like the cyclone butterflies not hooked up. After link is installed and tuned emissions will no longer be a problem. Other main issue with the car is a slipping auto trans. The previous owner did not use a Kiggly...

I tried shaving down the lifters. I removed a good amount off the bottoms and the lifter was sitting no where near bottoming out. Started the car and the problem still happened 60psi on cyl-4. Leak down test shows the same on all 4 cyl so the valves are sealing when set in the closed position...

I am having the same issue with a car right now. Built motor Kiggly springs,supertech valves,crower 272 cams bla bla.The compression on cyl 4 is low 60psi but 1,2,3 are 170psi. I take out the intake valve lifters on cyl #4 and bleed the down and recheck and it will got to 170psi. If i let...

I have run into a torched head on my techs car. Did you ever track down a specific issue?

Ok i am running out of ideas. My friends car has been through 10 or so headgaskets in the last few years. He has tried every gasket type and different types of o-ring methods.This year he decided to go with 2.0 vs the 2.3 he has used for years. So i decided to build a long rod 2.0 with R&R...

If I have the boost controller hooked up it will spike 32psi and fall to 28psi. With the line pulled it spikes to at least 36psi and falls to 29psi. I'm going on the dyno next week so we will see what happens.

I have tried a few different things recently to improve boost stability. I installed a external tial off the O2 housing and had almost the same boost curve. I recently put on a SMIM and 70mm throttle body to not much success. In the end i can only hold 28-29 psi till 8000rpm. the other day i...

There was a ebay manifold I saw a year or 2 ago that was a copy of a magnus.

That slave is moving the PP more then enough to disengage the clutch. I bet your PP is bad and not letting go and has nothing to do with the slave master or fork hitting.

That type of manifold would be beneficial for low end torque. The long runners and sweeping bends will give the air lots of velocity but in the higher rpms will choke out. That manifold looks a lot like a late 90s toyota 1.8l intake.

6-bolt rods use a 21mm piston pin and 7-bolts use a 22mm pin. But I have a solution for you This is something EVO guys do. Take the rods to a machine shop and have the big end narrowed to the width of a 7-bolt rod. You have to use 6-bolt bearings but otherwise it will work perfect.

Here's a 26x10 tire on a 8in rim 5.5in backspace. Sticks out bad and nearly rubs the strut.

I have seen this a few times it always ends up being melted wiring in the harness that runs from the inside fuse panel to the underhood fuse panel.

The boost is falling off because the turbo is so small it can not supply enough air at high engine speed. There is no way to get it to hold more no matter what you try. Just pick up a 16g and a install kit and you can hold 20psi to redline.

I agree with Justin if you need to stick with a DSM turbine housing then the T-25 from a auto 2g is the best choice. In fact I would say its too big for a 650cc but way better then the 14b he's running now.

The stock pump is not going to work max hp on it is in the 250hp mark. And 560cc injectors mite make it to about 350hp but I would not want to push them that far.

hate to say it but it sounds like a headgasket or a crack in the head/block.