If you are fixing to repaint it, you could always just sand the pieces to get the paint off. You will need a slightly rough surface to start with if you are planning to repaint anyways..--Kyle

The helicopter playground set is sweet. And the PBR fender. I seriously may rig something like that up on my rocket. That is dominant...:thumb:

The reason I am doing it this way is because in a way money isnt an option. I came upon a bit of money for free and decided to do my engine right and the way that seemed the most painless to do. I will pass on the stainless steel lines and just use rubber with the barbed fittings. Also, I...

Alright so based on time and no answers on the Evo intercooler setup, this is what I am going withPTE 50 trim Stainless Steel Feed Line Stainless Steel Return LineAeromotive Fuel Pressure Reg Stainless Steel Return Line (Or can I just get the barb fittings and rubber fuel line hose?)...

Alright, so 550s are good enough for the Evo III, or go with 650s??. I dont care if I go too big unless there is an adverse side effect to that??Also, What about the intercooler setup on the Evo III? That is one thing I am most concerned about. What intercooler setup is easiest to install...

Yeah, please explain, I am trying to go Evo III and I was thinking 650 just to have a safety cushion. What happend to the SAFC????--Kyle :talon:

Biggest thing I can suggest from personal experience is to take your time and dont rush anything. If you feel frustrated step away and breath. It will be worth it to spend the extra time and effort to do things right. Half-Assing it will only lead to getting it redone again....trust me :|...

The stock fuel lines are fine but I figured if I get all new stainless steel under the hood everything will fit together with the new lines and the FPR and all that jazz.My last big concern is an intercooler setup for the Evo III. What intercooler is the best to run and easiest to...

Alright, well I was hoping my turbo would hang on longer, but lo and behold it has blown before my anticipations. So I am looking to go with a new setup now, here are my for sures255 High Output Pump Fuel Pressure Reg. Injector upgrade Stainless Steel LinesDejonTool Cold Air intake...

Actually I think I would like to use SBR kits smaller streetable after all, the core is 24x7.75x3.5. Would that be good for a 50 trim with 680ccs, because that would be a good setup with the 255 and all that jazz....Would this work?--Kyle :talon:

Well what are the turbo options for the 680cc then?? If I can get away with an S-AFC or something in that price range that would be preferrable. Also, which intercooler should I use from slowboy. I have the money to pay for it so I dont want to hear a less expensive, but more custom...

Alright, my engine is getting rebuilt now and I am gonna get a turbo setup with some money I just happened to come across. My goal is between 380-460 hp or so.-50 trim with stage 3 turbine wheel (or maybe the 54 trim...thoughts?) -750ccs -Fuel Pressure Regulator -255 fuel pump, not...

I think the white and the black looks good, but then again I am partial to that seeing as my interior is also white and black, but it looks real good :thumb: :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

You can make one too, out of PVC, just get two end caps and a small peice of PVC, glue together and attach some fittings to the top to whatever you want to drain in there, and put a valve on the bottom for drain....good luck--Kyle :talon:

Lucky Mechanic :rocks: :rocks: :rocks: :rocks:--Kyle :talon:

Frolfing is so tight, I try to go but seem to never find the time, but Sunday is usually my day to get out, too bad that isnt often enough to not suck :mad:--Kyle :talon:

I dont know, I bought a real nice air tool set since I had the extra cash and it is irreplaceable since...If you dont have the money then fine but I am young with cash so if better tools are an option I say go for it, if not, I found success with my jack handle, slightly modifidy of course, over...

You dont need the center bolt out to pull the harmonic dampener....A little pulling and prying will break it loose :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

Age aside I think the first thing I ever learned about cars aside from checking oil is stands stands stands... I can honestly say I have never been under ANY car properly jacked/on a lift, nor would I and I have been working on cars since I was 16...its merely common sense. The only thing I do...

Boost...the replacement for displacement, hahaThe best I can do is to say that on Saturdays and Sundays all my friends know I am busy til the sun goes down...(I work on my car outside) They dont even call til around 9-930 :D--Kyle :talon:

Driving our family's "spare" cavalier...good times w/no CD player and shitty tape deck, haha, at least it gets me to work :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

I made mine following an article, cant remember which one...it appears correct, but then again I cant hit boost yet for a mysterious reason WTF--Kyle :talon:

I have a similar problem, but mine isnt significant enough to not idle...let us know how you find the leak so I can try it, haha :D--Kyle :talon:

Anyone? Im gonna be reassembling real soon and I want to make sure all my gaskets and such seal but I dont know what type of sealants to use or where...Can anyone give me a quick list, it would be really appreciated.--Kyle :talon:

Well in the haynes it lists three sensors...Coolant Temp Sending unit, coolant temp sensor (ECM) and coolant temp sensor (A/C)...Now I am assuming that with the A/C removed I would have no use for the A/C sensor, but would that work as a tap for water temp?--Kyle :talon:

By the way, Im not asking if it will fit so much as I am wondering if it will hurt me pulling the A/C sensor after I removed the A/C--Kyle :talon:

I currently have my DSM all tore up, which essentially means head off, timing belt side all disassembled etc etc. What I am wondering specifially is what kind of sealants or fluids (ie RTV, Locktite) do I need and where do I need to use it. In other words which bolts/gaskets need extra care...

I removed my A/C a while back and I was wondering if I could use the coolant temperature switch (A/C) on the thermostat cover to run my Water Temp Gauge sender? Anyone know?--Kyle :talon:

I live about 5 mins from Milwaukee, in Waukesha County :rocks: :rolleyes: ....Thats the best I can do--Kyle :talon:

There is a comparison on www.vfaq.com that shows the two manifolds from every angle....and like was said, chances are from the dealership they gave you what you had on there before.--Kyle :talon:

Other..................?? WTFIn all reality, Beer and Women, not much else :rocks: :rocks:--Kyle :talon:

I removed mine about a week or two ago, and I am quite certain you have to unbolt the axle bearing and then insert some sort of spacer (washers etc) in its place to compensate for the lost material.--Kyle :talon:

Yea, that write up is rather thorough, I will be doing this as well...I sure hope you didnt just order the kit though, you need/should be replacing a lot more stuff at the same time, seeing you will have everything apart anyway....--Kyle :talon:

Im lookiing for the same thing for the 1G as well, a power that will run when the ignition is on. Thanks--Kyle :talon:

Not to dig this up, but I figured why start a new thread....My autometer has two more spaces for wires, that say to ignition power? What is this for, I think my EGT has the same things...Anyone know where those get run to?--Kyle :talon:

It has the 420a in it, so whatever trim model that is, RS I beleive...--Kyle :talon:

For the pulley, you dont need to remove the center plug, just tap on it a bit with a mallet or pry it off with a flatbar or something like that. :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHAHA ROFL ROFL ROFL ROFL--Kyle :talon:

Check www.vfaq.com and look around on that site, get a haynes manual for a rough guideline, but that is usually the long way to do it, and search around this site, there are plenty of threads on this, you are bound to find what you are looking for. Good Luck.--Kyle :talon:

Yea, I'm replacing the hydraulic tensioner and the pulley.--Kyle :talon:

So is that a no then?--Kyle :talon:

I did a search on how to make the timing belt tensioner tool, as my battery tie down rod is MIA. I came across a few posts saying that you dont actually need the tool if you are replacing the tensioner. I am replacing pretty much everything on the timing side of the motor, including the...

I wish I could hit 20s :|--Kyle :talon:

Yea, the outside peice split complety from the inside peice.--Kyle :talon:

Well, I finally got it off, and to those in the future who may read this, just take out the four bolts and then give the pulley a few light taps with a rubber mallet, and then just pry it out gently, it will come eventually.--Kyle :talon:

ALRIGHT GREAT!!!! Thank you guys so much for helping me out, haha. I am off to continue work, now that I know wtf I am doing. Once again, thanks alot, I love you guys :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

Thats pretty brutal man...hahah, but quite funny too :thumb:--Kyle :talon:

I will be removing the balance shafts per the instruction of vfaq.comHalligoo, yes, that is what my setup looks like, I am an auto.--Kyle :talon:

Wait wait wait. Alright, plain and simple, I am changing the timing belt and I need to replace the crank pulley. Do I need to remove the center bolt or not? Maybe I am just retarded, but I want to make sure before I go pulling stuff apart. Thanks for putting up with my insane intelligence...

I worked for several summers on roofing for cash under the table. As long as you know/trust the guy I would go for it. I have referenced it as a job, and they dont check much, if anything they just call the guy. But as far as money and envelope of cash is rather nice :thumb:--Kyle :talon: