Thanks for posting test results :thumb:A dyno is the only way I can think of heat testing the manifold. Timing belt concerns may be unwarranted because it's is constantly moving, It'll be much less susceptible to burning vs a stationary object. Still worth the dyno costs however, and maybe...
Interesting. I'll note the article specifies 15-25" length.
"Longer tube headers (between 15" and 25" runner length) improve turbo spool time, provide better boost and are less prone to cracking."These benefits are suspect IMO.I think header design (great example in the article)...
Compared to what?It definitely works, FP doesn't make anything that doesn't. It has however been shown by one member to prove inefficient to reduce the intake diameter from 4" to 2.25" so close to the turbo inlet. This doesn't mean it can't be used. I've personally run the FP 4" intake with...
If you're getting a motor built and they charge 250 core, then a block is worth paying 200 for.No way you can find a complete 7-bolt shortblock for $200 when you need it. In fact, just jumped on Minnesota craigslist and all I found was a cut down crank for 150 :p
Just the bare block?I'd look at what the motor builders in your area are asking as a core charge. Around here it's about 250. I've seen 600 core charges, but I feel that's artificially high because they don't want to bother with finding another block.Personally I just sold a 7-bolt...
You're not, there are indeed size differences. Are there differences in mounting said calipers? Yes. That information is on the very first page of the thread.If you are going to do a custom brake swap, I'd familiarize myself with all the pertinent details before either wrenching or purchasing.
Is it me or does the drivers front tire look smaller than the others? Must be the angle.Also, do the doors have the original molding? Sideskirts same question.Anyways, looks fine as far as what a picture can tell you. Hard to find a 2gb talon.
Don't feel like quoting everyone, but to answer a few questions:-Timing is 19º from 4,000 up.
-Boost is 33.5 peak.
-AFR is ~11.5 targeted. (no log WB, but looks reasonable)
-UAE is basically sea level.
-Fuel is c16.If anyone has NLTS wired in a 1g, maybe they can help with the...
I can see in your log the negative effect each shift has on the car. Power drops off hard and takes a long time to recover. I would start by bumping up the rev limiter 500rpm to 8,000 and run the car again. The car will easily handle that and I'd feel good about 8,500 RPM too although it's your...
If you have a 2g, and you do, get the Mitsu-style. This one uses a plug and play OMNI MAP sensor. It replaces the MDP sensor which is worthless as far as I can tell.If your are replacing your stock 2g intake manifold with a different type, or have a 1g, get the universal or "gm style" kit.
There's a tab to select "Activate ALS with clutch switch while moving."I believe antilag's original intention was to keep the turbo spooled in-between shifts.
Mileage: Best thing to do is examine the car closely. Every little thing that would show wear-n-tear should be quite new-ish at 44k miles. My 95 has 78k miles and the car shows little wear. Another thing is to consider why a 1998 vehicle has that few miles. Look for evidence of repair or at...
vicky_turbo: two suggestions. First, you're lifting the throttle to shift. You can see the boost drop way off as a result. ECMlink has a no lift to shift feature which will help keep the turbo spooled in-between shifts. All you need is the clutch cut wire and a few hours to set everything up...
Nothing is wrong with cheap anything. It's your decision to spend your money as wisely as possible.I have a Miller 211 (DVI) for home garage and a Miller MIG and Sync 250 TIG at work.My next home machine is a dynasty 280 (or 350 depending on how froggy i'm feeling - I like power for...
I'm trying to figure out the best way to permanently mount the cover to the dash so it looks factory. My original plan was to TIG aluminum threaded rod to the back side of the cover and feed them through the two holes in the dash "bar" but it turns out there's no way to attach nuts to the other...
Bump for a good sale :cool:This is from Wingz Performance:2.4LR setup, GTX3582R, and E85 setup. I have gone through both cams for testing purposes.GSC S2:
- better mid-range with 30-40 more torque over S3
- spooled 100-300RPM's sooner
- makes 20-40 hp less than S3's pending...
If "cheap" is the priority I would consider putting the cash in your pocket and waiting on a quality, used machine. Jump on a deal when you find it.You'll get much more for your 1k.
Nice stats on that fluid but for the average nerd I'm cringing at 25 bucks a flush. I see (well, I saw anyway) a lot of ridiculous markups for ATE fluid (~$20) but I bought all mine at 12.99 a quart.Seemed like the best bang for the buck fluid, maybe not quite the best for serious track use.
The fact is the Ostar record will likely stand forever, it's just so amazing.. And it's backed up by the track dyno.turbodsm007: go for it. Don't let a handful of negative internet comments derail you.Michael Jordan was a great player but he's third on the all-time scoring list. ;)
Cool project, love the wastegate recirculate.The services of the local machinist. :cool: There's always the best sander, at your own risk of course. I haven't done it but some fabricators make it work.
1,000 mile break-in would probably be sufficient for everyone, however it's important to remember it's not about the quantity it's about the quality. Break-in miles means actively using the clutch, so every persons total number of break-in miles will differ as the environment dictates. I presume...
Yeah that's absolutely true. Point stands however, match turbo with cam.I think the little 20g on the 2.4L will make for an entertaining car, obviously street oriented. A nice, conservative cam will only make things better.Shift at 6,500 though! :p
Lighter parts do not necessarily make it safer for higher RPMs, in some cases it's the opposite. I especially like these changes from the original list.I would lean towards a nice set of 272's in lieu of the 280's, especially with the small turbo. Properly matching modifications is the key...
Found another damaged wire.. at the starter ground.Repaired the section and the car turns over now. Battery too drained to start but at least it's doing what it should.Note: the tired battery might have been an compounding factor on this no start.EDIT:OK back to no start.Last...
Pulled the cover under the steering wheel, found a remote start / security system.Then I found: The. Worst. Wiring. Ever.I'll upload some pics so you too can feel nauseous. In short, I'm surprised the car even ran. The owner said the remote start stopped working awhile ago, no surprise...
Shows 12.0v, car had been starting fine. Fuel pump is just the clip in connections, verified secure. That was the first area I looked over because I was just in there.Makes the most sense.Noted. The car came to me with a ripped-off ground to the firewall (no battery hold down), I...
Car was running normal. Swapped a fuel pump, then had to pull it back out. Went to start car:Key to ACC, all dash lights come on like usual.Key to Start, CLICK and dash lights go out and nothing happens (car doesn't crank).Leave the key at ACC and the lights flicker and slowly...
First, the OP's spring-rate choice is usually wrong, but in this case you've wisely omitted specific numbers. Having nothing to jump all over, I'll just grudgingly provide "helpful" advice. :boring:What's the stock rates for the ground control kit? (500-250?) That would probably be a...
There are.Version two is shorter than one and three. Both one and three are the same height although they are easily differentiable given the 3mm top oil port (3rd gen) vs the tiny original (size unknown).Also notable are the differences in oil supply hole, versions one and three...
Charles is correct. Use the right tool for the job, but beware even the flare wrenches can flex if you buy the HF cheapies! :coy: Here's an old trick if you're stuck: put the flare wrench on the nut, take a small vice grip and clamp it around the wrench. This helps prevent wrench-flex for...
I would pick a T3 manifold and turbo based off the best possible performance and then figure out how to hide it. I'd suggest a custom made shield or possibly a manifold blanket. Although IMO, anything that's "hidden" is bound to raise suspicion with other car guys, but would probably work on the...
If you drag race I would go straight to slicks as a dedicated set. 235/60-15's will be pretty wide on 9" wheels, and weld gets you strength and light weight which is awesome. I would really try to verify fitment before dropping the $$, it'll be a pretty penny for the setup and you might as well...
15x9 welds would definitely work.What's the goal of wider rims? wider tires > increased grip?I run 235/60-15 on 15x7 and I have yet to lower the tire pressure at the track, but the normal-pressure grip is pretty crazy on the street. 15psi launches (2.3/3052/auto) ramping pretty much...
Ideally you want to match the diameter of the intake pipe to the turbo inlet. Any deviation from that, (especially 3" in front the compressor) is going to cause some airflow disruption. Nobody knows how much, but you might ask yourself, why should I buy a part that doesn't fit?On the other...