Anyone know of any good resources for establishing the weight of factory DSM wheels, and also the weight of various sizes and brands of tires?

First, I'll give you the whole plan for the bottom end I'm about to build. Pretty standard, really.6 bolt 4G63 block G4CS crank, .25mm cut on rods and mains, appropriately sized bearings Ross forged 9.0:1 stroker pistons, .5mm oversize, with Ross racing rings and wristpins Eagle H-beam...

No, that's fine, thanks for the input. The more I look into it, the more I'm thinking it won't be necessary. The crank should be balanced well enough, and it's a planar style crank (all journal centers lie in the same plane) so I should be able to rig up something to check the static balance...

Thanks for the info man! I was under the impression that the rods/piston assembly was weighed and that weight was used to balance the crank. I guess there's different ways to do it, I didn't think the flywheel and all was that important to include, but I guess maybe. I would really love to...

How are your rods and pistons heavier than stock 2.0L cast stuff?When i built my 2.4, i did not get anything balanced. It runs fine, however, Im never going to wrap my motor to 9,000 or anything either.You might want to balance everything you have now. I dont regret not balancing my...

First, I'll give you the whole plan for the bottom end I'm about to build. Pretty standard, really.6 bolt 4G63 block G4CS crank, .25mm cut on rods and mains, appropriately sized bearings Ross forged 9.0:1 stroker pistons, .5mm oversize, with Ross racing rings and wristpins Eagle H-beam...

So I'll be swapping manifolds and I figured I'd replace the oil feed line while I'm at it. There has been discussion about relocation of feed source, but no concensus as to what is best. Here's the options:1) Feed from the head. I can get a local place make me a hose with banjos on both...

You can get them from Road///Race Engineering, both aluminum and steel. Their website is down right now, but I'm sure it'll be back.

You can do what they do with racecars and just make a pedal pad out of a curved piece of aluminum or steel that's rigidly mounted or welded to the pedel arm. Of course, many racecars with this setup usually have bottom hinged pedals too.

I just searched around online and asked some friends and 9/7 springs (504 lb/in and 392 lb/in) were higher than most people were using on their 1gens, even cars that were basically track-only. The 1G suspension geometry utilizes very little leverage effect on the springs, unline honda...

Thanks M, what exactly does the "fix" entail, and will those who have already bought sets be able to get the new parts?? I'd assume it would just be a longer lower section for the rear shocks. (I don't mind mailing back the old lower sections if needed)The rear is nearly as high as it can...

This setup is very user friendly as long as you have a good understanding about what camber and toe are and do and to a lesser extend caster. After that, it's easy. As far as dialing it in I'm basically going to set the rear toe as close to zero as I can, a little toe out up front, maybe a...

Yes, the car is a daily driver, though I have a beater for when the dsm is under the knife. I chose the D2s primarily because I could get the whole setup with the ingalls arms for about $200 more than Sportlines and AGXs. There is a ton more adjustability and with the D2s and you don't have to...

internet negativity rules.I'm less concerned about the springs actually settling than compression and settlement of the poly spring seat isolators used on both the upper and lower spring perch. Some information from Eibach:When Eibach suspension springs are fitted, will the car sit at...

After many delays I finally found the time to get everything installed. I am VERY happy with these coilovers. Here's the specs:D2 Coilovers (from thespeedfactor.com - Thanks Martin!)Fully threaded shock bodies, height adjustable Pillow ball mounts front and rear Front camber plates...

Okay, my car has been acting funny lately, specifically when I really get on it the front(s) will break loose like a FWD car. This worries me. I first though it could just be a blown VC since it's sortof acting like it's TRYING to lock up and hook the rears, but can't do it. Actually in the...

EXTREMELY satisfied with the performance, sound, fit and finish of my RnR. All stainless is a big plus too.

Why would you have to change the front suspension? Leave it all in place and just use outer cups from the front CV axles. Leaving those in place (once the joint is disassembled and cleaned of grease of course) shouldn't hurt anything at all. The CV axle itself is not designed to offer any...

Might Max tranny would be easy, certain years came with 4G63s (non-turbo block, 8 valve head) and as mentioned before the 4g63t swap is popular with them, but wear and tear on the tranny is less a problem because you'll flame the hides long before breaking something inside (no weight over rear...

Exactly what I'm looking at buying, hell of a deal for selectable onset boost referenced variable rate injection. Did you get the check valve that's recommended for >15 psi boost applications? I'm thinking about getting the fluid level indicating reservior too, unless I can find a simple fluid...

Actually, I've been doing a lot of research into water/alchy injection and yes, while it is agreed that a 50/50 water/methanol mix is the best thing to use all around, normal BLUE washer fluid is not 50/50 with some dye, it's actually closer to a 2:1 water to methanol mixture, meaning 1/3 or 33%...

I was wondering about this, and I found this MSDS sheet for what appears to be a good example of standard "blue" windshield washer fluid, almost all of which claiming freeze protection to 20 below.http://www.douglasproducts.com/commercial/msds_ww.htmlAccording to this, the composition is...

The primary advantage for you is suppression of knock and ignition timing advance. Water will do just fine in suppressing knock due to its high latent heat of vaporization, and it will cause the system to behave as if you're using very high octane gas, so long as the rest of your fuel system is...

Mine took six weeks, originally it was supposed to take two or three. It was WELL worth the wait though, everything is of very high quality, everything bolted together without incident, required NO modification of ANYTHING, every hangar lined up perfectly and all I had to do was buy three 3"...

RnR O2 elim. turboback, full stainless w/cat, internal wastegate (16G) recirculated. Looks and works great, if I get a chance to take some pics I'll certainly post them, but I'm sure you can find something.

It turns out that GP Sorensen, maker of aftermarke OE replacement switches, sensors, caps, rotors, modules, etc., buys factory OE Mitsubishi 1G knock sensors and simply reboxes them for sale to parts retailers.I don't know about the 2G sensors, but I bought a "GP Sorensen" knock sensor...

Yeah, when a friend of mine half melted down a piston and cracked a couple ring lands it pressurized the crankcase enough to blow out his dipstick and spray oil all over his turbo and manifold (SR20) starting a fire. It's very possible to just crack one piston and cause crankcase pressure that...

check your PCV valve and vent hose then go to the parts store, buy a cheapo oil cap for that engine and replace the gasket on your old cap with the one that came on the new (probably Stant) cap.

What kind of racing do you want? Rally? Road? Rallycross?http://www.d2racing.com.tw/racing-team.htmAnd really, not much R&D is needed on a dsm, the suspensions are about as rudimentary as they come. Some plans and a spec sheet is plenty when dealing with geometry that's common to 90%...

Actually, I was wondering if there's any provision for additional support for the turbo assembly, seems like the weight of it would induce a lot of stress into the joint between the runners and flange, if supported only at the head.

Hey Martin, what springs (rates) do the 1G D2 kits come with from the factory, by default? 7f/5r?? Just wondering, thanks.

Exactly, creating a bottleneck in the crankcase ventilation system resulting in greater accumulation of deposits around the small outlet (PCV valve)

Look at the distribution of all that varnish and crap, then look at the location of your PCV valve.

The TRE probe comes with a slide together connector, so yes you will have to wire the line going to your gauge into the empty side of this connector.

Autometer pyrometers use K-type thermocouples so yes, the TRE one will work. I'm using a TRE probe with a VDO gauge.

I'm not sure that the extra manifold length is necessarily a bad thing. Those exhaust pulses are moving FAST, so the size and efficiency of the turbo is of more concern than and extra 8 or 10 inches of exhaust runner. There's some thermodynamics theory that puts a turbo placed in such an...

Oh, okay I'm surprised I didn't jump on that one, especially considering that Continental's parent company Continental AG is a German company and the bags have "Made in Germany" all over them. Duh, makes much better sense now.

Hopefully that's a joke, cause D's post was meant to be...sorta. Contitech is the belt manufacturer. They're good belts.

This is close, but not exact. The spring rate is just that, a RATE, given in kg/mm. Converting it to imperial yeilds lb/in. The conversion goes like this:kg/mm x 25.4mm/in x 2.20462 lb/kg = lb/inAs it works out, it's a simple factor of multiplication of...

Hey Martin, what would you recommend as far as spring rates for a daily driven 1G AWD? I won't be putting this thing in the weeds either, maybe about as much drop as Sportlines (adjustable length shock bodies OWN). Thanks.-Colin

Probably because the T you used is a different thread than the oil filter housing.

Drain and refill the rear end with the appropriate type and weight gear oil (look it up in your shop/Haynes/Chilton manual, which you should have). The limited slip differential is a VISCOUS unit, requiring no maintenance or any kind of special fluid or additive like clutch-type LSDs do.

I've had this problem too...well kinda. Doing some "research" at work I found different Fel-Pro part numbers listed for 6 bolt and 7 bolt years. Never did figure out why, maybe somebody can shed some light on this.

There's a reason they don't make AN thread taps...it's a two sided system. MEANING that for an AN connection to seal, it requires the seat manufactured into the fitting. National Pipe Thread is a compression fitting, it seals itself. Your best bet, use an NPT tap and a (readily available) NPT...

I've got a contitech T-belt and BS-belt sitting right next to me that I ordered from Ongreenperformance.com. Belts appear to be of very high quality, are "made in germany" which usually means good since the germans are historically anal about production quality, and for what it's worth, they...

Okay, that's cool. I can't move mine at ALL, and I'm not a weak dude, but hopefully it'll all work out.

Okay yeah, I had considered that, but what about the function of the vc itself, should one be able to move it by hand, or should it be stiff like mine? I don't want to put it in if it's locked up.

Here's some pics, if it'll help.Note 1: This shows the outer side of the vc, which looks fine except for the stange "burned" looking area.Note 2: This shows the side, it has a "J X" stamped into it and the circumferential striations make it look like something may have been...

Quick VC question. I just bought one used, and I was wondering if I should be able to operate it by hand (turn the shafts in relation to each other). I can't, it's stiff as shit, just wondering if that's normal. It looks like it may have been heated with a torch during removal since there's...

The 2.6L (G54B) head swap from a late 80's caravan is common for 2.6L Monteros, Raiders, Mighty Max's, etc. since the caravan head, while the exact same casting and material, is a non-jet valve head (at least for the efi models) whereas all the G54Bs with carbs are jet-valve models, at least to...