^^exactly what I was looking for.and the problem is both, car on and off. 1-2 and 3-4 I have no problems with. its going from 2-3 that Im having problems with. itll shift fine, but when I try to go from 2 up into 3, I have to actually guide it with my hand. I took a peek earlier, it...

ok but my question was about the shifter not the clutch assembly..?its hard to move the shifter. I really need to take a good luck at everything...

clutch pedal is fine, goes down comes back up fine. but Im fearing for the worst....blown transmission. shiiiit.

so my brother calls me and tells me his 1g has been actin up. I ask him what the problem is. he says the shifter is hard to move and wont slide directly from 2-3, it just goes back up into 1.I get home from work, take a quick look at it to confirm. I check to make sure the cigarette lighter...

^^sounds like a good idea...I think Ill try that this weekend. aluminum safe paint stripper right..? cool.

sticking brake piston perhaps...? sounds like it may be out a bit and causing some drag...although I dont think it would be enough to cause a vibration...

shouldve gone to a shop with a "touchless" tire remover.

nothing like the good old 4-3....and the ever popular 5-3. I dont look at the speedo/tach anymore, I just feel the car. you can just tell.

^^wouldnt masking off the lip be harder than trying to avoid sanding the already painted wheel..? although...I do see your point...how would I do that then?

looks like Ill be goin with 235/45/17. thanks for the input all..!

what I was going to do was mask the rivets off with vaseline and paint the whole rim minus the lip, and then just work on the outer lip. I was thinking the same thing myself. should turn out pretty good though.

there ya go. the only question I have is...how the heck do i do the part of the wheel where the rivets/studs are..? do those come off..? my plan was to just polish the lip and repaint the inside of the wheels bronze.

offset is 42.so its safe then to go with 235? I was lookin at the tires on there now, and they look decently sized already as is...I just want to go a little wider, wide as possible anyways.

ok so those wheels I picked up are pretty good on the inside, but the lip on all 4, are in dire need of a polishing. can you guys help me out and post up some write ups if you have any..? or if youve seen any...? thanks in advance.J

Kumho 711's are whats on the car now, haha. It seems to be a pretty good tire, was reading reviews for it the other day...

I got the wheels today....man 215 is a bit wider than I expected...makes me wonder what 235 is going to look like...or even fit.how many of you are running 235...? any problems..?

stick out..? like how far out..?

^^you rock man, thanks for the breakdown. :thumb:

I ran a 225 width before on my 2G, but it was 225/50/16.shouldnt I be able to get away with a 235/45/17..?Ill have to ask for offset..

the wheel width is 7.5.

Im coming into a set of 17's this weekend, and wanted an opinion on what a good tire size would be.This is for a 1G AWD. Car is fitted with Eibach prokits and KYB AGX'sI was thinking of going with 245/45/17...too much? my second choice was going to be going with 235/45/17...

well, I finally found the reason. dude sold me a broken bov. dont know if he knew that or not, still trying to figure that out. never returned my calls, or messages. I got hosed. so I just sucked up the loss and bought a new one. everything works just fine now. thanks for all the suggestions and...

I saw a writeup on another forum...something about tigthening up the springs...Ill mess with that, see what happens...maybe somethings loose in there...

if it wasnt working at all, then my turbo would be dead, true... the reason I was trying to figure out if it was even working was the BOV sounds nothing like an HKS at all. it sounds just like the sound that used to come out of my STOCK bov, which is what was causing all this concern. could I...

my HKS is the older one (there is a screw on the back)so if read those posts correctly...for the MBC the compressor line goes to the side of the MBC and the intake manifold line goes to the bottom of the MBC? not that any of this matters, Im running off the BCS at the moment, cause I think...

what is too tight? Ive read to adjust the screw until the fluttering stops (tighten screw down, starting from out most thread) vacuum I dont know, havent had access to a vacuum pump/gauge. I dont believe any of the lines are clogged, although thats something I hadnt thought of before. Ill...

ok, now before I get bombarded, Ive searched and searched and I havent found a problem similar to mine, let alone close. Although I could be wrong.allow me to clarify...I put on an HKS SSQV on my car earlier this week, started her up, and I was shocked when it sounded just like my old...

well the overflow is not supposed to leak out except when your car is overheating correct me if im wrong. If its not overheating and still leaking you might have a faulty radiator cap..

Well I really dont beat on my car just because I just got the car registered like two days ago. The tranny thats in my galant now sucks ass.. 1st gear pop out sometimes, 2nd gear is hard to get to, and 3rd gear grinds which f*ckin sucks cuz I live in chicago.. Im going to fill up my tranny with...

wow all i gotta say is thanks.. u gave me some good ass info there!! well we jacked up the front and both of the tires turn.. so I was thinking it would be the rear diff or possibly the transfer case.. thank god that it wasnt my tranny (whew).. well the main goal for me was to move the car back...

so you think the problem is my tranny? Im at work right now so I cant really check til later on tonight..

I will check if the brake pads are hitting the rotors. IMO the tranny shifts fine. I tried moving the car in first, second, and third gear but just wont budge. and as for the t case im pretty sure the recall was done. what are symptoms of a bad t case? thanks for the quick reply!

Well I was pulling out of my driveway and suddenly my car just stopped and stalled right after. When my car died it felt like I hit the brakes but I didnt. As of right now my car is in front of my neighbors driveway. The wierd thing is that even in neutral and with the handbrake down 5 guys cant...

also my electronic boost guage on the cluster stop working.. I thought i blew out my turbo or headgasket.. will do a boost leak tester thanks!

Well I have a 92 gvr4 with a s16g.. The problem is my car hesitates and bogs over 2500 grand.. It backfires fast and a lot of black smoke is coming out of the exhaust when the rpms rise.. Also my car is eating up A LOT of gas.. When I rev the motor to low rpms I see white smoke coming out of...

o...theres no specific size? inches? or anything?

hey everyone my brake line tore on my 1991 eagle talon tsi...i wanted to know how thick the diameter is on the brake line? thanks

i heard the rear shocks have to be taken off to adjust? am i wrong?

hello everyone i just got my AGX's in and my eibach pro kit in...i havent installed it yet...i was wondering...what are good settings for my car...i wanna go a little auto X and a little drag...or just all around settings....thanks

thanks fer the info.. hopefully I can purchase the 20g bastard with my next check..

Slowboy came out with a new 20g. A 20g comp wheel in a 16g cover. You have the option of picking the tdo5h or the tdo6h wheel for an extra 100 dollars. Its a complete bolt on for manual 1g. its kinda like the t28 killer for a 1g. I was thinking of going with the evo16g but this came along.. Will...

i personally think that the 1g looks better.... i did a search and nothing came up so i hope this isnt repost

when I installed 560cc injectors made a big difference when I had my fpbig28 and also you should invest in a 190 or 255 fuel pump.

I had a fpbig28 ported. I did feel the difference in power at higher boost but ended roasting my tires in 1st and 2nd gear. I sold it a month later cause I eventually wanted to go bigger. If I were I would go with the green or some sort. but if you want a direct replacement thats also pretty...

arrite cool ill try n search around...anyone else have opinions?

i have a 91 :talon: talon tsi awd and i have three different manifolds. I have the stock one USDM manifold, the jdm cyclone mani and the ECI turbo manifold, the cyclone has the throttle body on it. im planning on going with the cyclone but what are your thoughts?thank you

Those three were the same turbos I was looking into as well.. I went with a ported fp-big28 about 3 weeks ago.. My turbo is set at 16 psi by 3200rpm and holds that with no problem till redline with the proper supporting mods.. I do get wheelspin with this turbo on first and a lil bit of second...

2nd gens= any variations of the garrett t28(direct bolt on for 2nd gens) but I reccomend fp-big28 since I have one and I hit full boost of 18psi under 3200rpm.. Look into agp big28 as well.. Dennis Grant made 348whp using the fp-big28 with his autox awd talon.. 1st gens= Any kind of 16g turbo...

wrap teflon tape around the threads since the two threads never line up correctly..