well i have been dealing with a clutch engaging right at the floor and it was hard to get into gear . it started with a problem with the pedal not making contact with the clutch starter switch . so i kept adjusting the master rod . it worked for awhile but then it started all over again . now...

you have to work by process of elimination . start by doing a leak down test . you might have a warped head or a crack . what you do is take the coolant cap off and make sure there is coolant right up to the top . then with the leak tester you put pressure in the cylinder and watch for the...

These cars were built with 210 HP and when they are modified with more power they will start to have problems . With my car i had 2 trans rebuilds and an engine . My air fuel went lean one time which caused cylinder 3 to go . The trans went the first time when my son drove it . The second time...

is this an auto or manual

i am glad someone finally saw my post cause that new meth nozzle design atomizes the meth better . i have seen close to 32 pounds of boost with 0.7 counts of knock on a 2nd gear pull .

maybe the a/c compressor

aem has an updated injector nozzle v3 and it works great. my knock almost totally went away at 30 psi of boost. there is a video on it check it out .

when the rod is adjusted properly you should have some play in the pedal up top . but also make sure all the air is out of the system .

hey keltalon good to see you back

check the gear and make sure the teeth are in good condition .

do a leak down test and with the radiator cap off see which cylinder is causing the antifreeze to rise .if the antifreeze starts to rise then you know you have a head gasket leaking .

ATF + 4 is what you should use for the power steering .

you really should fix your obd port so you can get a code out of it . that way it could give you and idea on where to start.

try miller auto parts in North Carolina . they are going to be used but you can restore them .

i forgot to mention that i still use the factory main fan on the p/s and a pusher fan in between the radiator and front mount for my a/c.

this is what i did on my 98 gsx without external switches . there are 2 speeds low and high . low speed comes on first until it needs the higher one . so what i did was to reverse the wires so that the high speed fan comes on right away instead of the low speed . the low speed will never need...

what i would do is when you get the new seals try slipping them on the axle to see if they fit snug . make sure there are no burs on the axle . if the seal fits properly then next step is to look at where the seal goes on the trans . inspect for any groves where the seal seals on the outer...

that sounds like a large vacuum leak . did you connect the brake booster hose to manifold .

i would double check your valve timing and if that is correct then do a compression check of all the cylinders .

it does sound like a misfire . did you try to scan it for any codes .

that is a factory ring that mitsubishi puts in the manifold so that the exhaust pressures don't blow out the sides

who wan'ts exhaust gases back in there intake ? not me

cleaner engine bay less clutter more air to circulate . only problem check engine light will come on .

are you using to large of a nozzle cause you don't want to inject to much meth . on my car it ran a lot better with a smaller nozzle and air fuel around 11.7 . to rich and you have rich knock

i found the best way to bleed a lifter is with a T pin .

i just had my transmission done by jacks and i can't say enough .

i had my trans done with a 4 spider center diff and a limited front diff like 15 years ago by TRE and they did a good job but about 2 months a go my 3rd gear shattered . not blaming them or myself cause all i did was downshift to 3rd and hit the gas . now i had my trans rebuilt by jacks with...

i would also like to see a FP red turbo with that set up

both hoses coming out of the heater core should be hot . if one hose feels hotter than the other then the core is partially plugged . another thing is did you install the thermostat the right way . there is a jiggle pin on it that has to face in a certain direction so it can bleed all the air out.

if you put the axle in a vise and then you have to pull outward on the outer joint while hitting it with a hammer . it should come out with a few good wacks.

ok so you probably have that screw on the throttle body that you can adjust.

you have the chrysler none turbo motor that is a different set up

there is a fillip screw on the top of the throttle body it may have a black plug . take the plug out and back off the screw a quarter of a turn and see what happens.

The sensor that usually goes bad is the smaller one which is for the oil light sometimes called the idiot light . there should be a signal wire connected to it with a spade terminal end .

Start by changing your oil pressure switch .

in your first post you said that it try's to start but dies . to me it sounds like your timing jumped . all you need is one tooth to cause a problem . i did my timing belt one time and when i went to start it the engine would run and die . checked the timing and it was off by one tooth .

i would check compression and if it's off then your timing jumped .

i had this problem on my car and i tried 2 x to seal the pan . finally i put dye in the engine oil and found that the leak was coming from the timing belt side of the engine . taking everything apart i found the leak coming from behind the engine mount bracket . after removing the bolts there...

For me being a Chrysler Dodge tech and having first hands on these vehicles i quickly fell in love with them . My first dsm was a 1989 mirage turbo then a 95 gst and now a 98 gsx that always puts a smile on my face when i hit that 30 psi of boost .

My 2g 98 eclipse gsx is not my daily car . It's in the garage and i only drive it on nice days. my other car is a 2010 Chrysler t&c and my wife drives a 2010 Infiniti g37x which is pretty fast to .

15 to 16

I ran a Toyota supra fuel pump with no updated regulator for a long time with no problem until i rewired the fuel pump . looking again at this problem it does sound like a boost leak .

how much boost are you running on that stock turbo . maybe it's to high and your ecu is trying to shut the engine down . try lowering your boost and see what happens.

i would just change the flywheel since everything else failed .

I bought a FP exhaust manifold from extreme psi . Now the only thing is i have to port and polish it .

sounds like you have a clogged exhaust. drop the down pipe and see how it runs .

take the door panel off and you are going to see window in and out adjustment . if i remember correctly it's a 12 mm lock nut with an allen head screw . you loosen the lock nut and turn the allen screw in or out to adjust the window tilt .

i agree leave them in . leave them out more vibrations , things loosen up ,oil leaks more problems .

My trans was done by t.r.e and it's still going with no problems .

Keltalon I have been waiting to see you back in action . can't wait to here more.