Hey all, I need a second (or third/however many I can get actually) opinion on what I can do to fix this. It had minor rust damage when I bought it last summer, now it has gotten much worse. I want to fix it this summer before it gets bad enough where it might be truely expensive to fix. Pic...

I'm just about finished with my install...phew. It's taken me about 4 leisurely days to fabricate brackets from sheetmetal, dynamat, and run wires thus far. I'm finishing everything up today by cutting holes in the doorskins for tweeters and probably hacking a power antenna unit which...

On the right is my new Image Dynamics 6.5" CX and on the left is the stock basket- Notice the wedge that angles the speaker to point slightly up? It has to match up with the door skin to fit correctly. My problem is this: I have to find a way to create some sort of speaker shim that can be...

Hard to get this work of modern art out of my mind...the new F430. I would have sex with this car.:sneaky:

Thanks for the suggestion. It doesn't look like it's coming from there, either :(

There's coolant on the crossmember (driver's side). Checked all coolant lines on the turbo, radiator and hard pipe, pretty much everything in the front of the engine. There is no coolant on the side of the block indicating a leak from the water pump (which was replaced when I removed the head)...

Michigan is the same...we probably get a lot less of those days but gets pretty bad when you're looking at 95 percent humidity and the temp is 88 degrees and sunny. :notgood:ddavisaf, thanks- that was exactly what I was looking for. I will see if some penetrant helps quiet it down a...

2/60 A/C. Funny guy LOL!I know it robs HP, sucks gas, etc. Here in MI it gets to be 85-90 during the summer. DSMs heat up like a tin can and DO NOT cool off very quickly- that's why I'd rather keep my creature comforts ;)I guess I'll just deal with the sound. :talon:

I also get the same whirring noise when this happens. Anyone know if it's normal? Is there a way to quiet it down? It blows cold air and works great. I wonder if it's just because DSMs are noisy :confused:

After hearing this nifty little nugget of info I am going to take a bit of time to spray behind all the wheel wells (quarter panels, fenders) just to be sure this doesn't need to be done again. Michigan winters have rusted pretty much every car I've owned :|

Dr3wStx while you're at it you might as well re-paint the cosmetic trim too, it looks a little faded ;)I hesitate to use fiberglass mostly because I hear the "proper" way to do body repair is by replacing the affected area with metal since welding is the best way to bond two surfaces that...

Got it! I think I know enough to be dangerous (to myself, not others :D ). I will take some pics along the way and show the results...this might take 2-3 weekends, though. I will head to the junk yard as soon as I get the Cut-Off tool. By the way, how much should I spend on a spray gun? I've...

Awesome. I'll pick one up on eBay friday. Now all I need is a spray gun and to rent some welding tools, then I'm set! What stuff do you use to coat the backside of the panel? I am guessing more stuff will need to come apart- mainly the shields in the inner wheel well, correct? This should be...

Would this do the job?

BaaaaahhherrrrrzzzzztSome guy: hey! what what are you doing?Me: ;) :shhh:lol, I wouldn't even try to get away with that! It definitely seems to be the best way to go about it. What do I need to cut the piece I need? This just might require purchasing additional tools...

Ok, I'll be out of here (work) around 7p EST. I'll send you a pm before I leave. When I said desireable results I meant mainly the lip on the quarter panel (around the wheel well)where it is rusting- that part of the panel seems to be hard to replicate with sheetmetal due to the half-elliptical...

ddavisaf, thanks for the response- in regards to removing the fender are you referring to to cutting most of the fender off? Is there any other way? I heard you can also locate the spot welds and remove the fender. I'm going to check my Haynes manual when I get home to see if there is any...

Thanks babel! Yeah, it's going to be kind of tricky. The piece I'm going to cut will probably be a triangle, from the bottom "lip" of the wheel well on both sides to near the top of the glass where the other hole is. I'm praying there's nothing else underneath but at this point it's going to...

What I am thinking is hit up a junkyard, cut the portion off I need with the right tools then weld, grind, primer and paint until fixed. I am confident this can be pulled off by a novice (since the damage isn't too severe, YET) if I have the right tools. Any suggestions would be much...

Hey all, I need a second (or third/however many I can get actually) opinion on what I can do to fix this. It had minor rust damage when I bought it last summer, now it has gotten much worse. I want to fix it this summer before it gets bad enough where it might be truely expensive to fix. Pic...

http://www.sw-performance.com/pods/pod.aspx?productid=552I read the PDF instructions for installation; they are identical to the Pro Pods model I bought. I think it's safe to say both these companies must be buying from the same manufacturer. It's "possible" to mount the pillar as a full...

Mine is the ProPods one as well. I will find some good reversible way to mount this thing on the pillar and make it look right...I will try to get some pics up in the next couple of days. :talon:

I was hoping I could get some input from the DSM Community regarding their experiences with installing full pillar gauge pods. I fitted my 60mm Apex'i Boost gauge and it looks pretty good, although the bottom portion doesn't sit flush as the top does when you push the gauge back into the pod -...

I think this will work...not finished putting the stem in it yet. It's actually three parts since I had to mix and match.

The hardest part seems to be finding a piece of hose that will fit the cap snugly. I will check Damman or ACE Hardware to see if I can get what I need. Btw I was using the guide from the vFAQ site; was just wondering if any of you made yours differently since I was having a hard time getting...

I'm having trouble finding the parts to buy what I need from Home Depot or Lowe's. I would like to see pics of your Boost Leak testers and/or any makeshift parts you used. Where can I buy a valve stem for it? Any help would be useful. Thank you

Awesome suggestions guys! I was pondering the use of some light lubricant but never even considered Meguire's Tire Endurance. Thanks! I'm going to pick some up. :thumb: :talon:

There is quite a noticeable difference. Without having my boost gauge installed yet I am unable to confirm there are boost leaks since I haven't tested for them. When I give her gas the timing seems to be pulled; the car jerks a little depending on how quickly I get on the throttle. I also...

Great to hear it man! I'll be sure to check my mani after I port the exhaust inlet on the turbo. I dunno yet if there's broken bolts or if the gasket might be gone- I think I reused the old gasket so that could be the problem. Glad your problem is fixed :talon:

This has probably been asked before, but what type of die grinder should I use? I've found some cheap ones on eBay around $5-$15. They're 25k RPM, 300 W and use a .23" shank. If anyone can tell me what type of stone/bit works best that would be great. I'm sick of driving the car like this...

I needed to replace my 1g mani since it had a lot of cracks in it and bought a 2g ported mani. However I noticed while I can hear the turbo spool the car isn't really making any power. There just seems like it isn't boosing as much as it should. Will porting the turbo solve this problem? Also...

Weather has been really cold, now my windows are freezing up. Since they're Power windows I can't forcibly roll them down. This can last for a while until the temperature of the glass gets to a warm enough temperature and it can go down. I'm thinking there is moisture gathering where the...

I get the exact sound Stooklum is getting, yet like he says there are no symptoms- car runs normally...but the sound wasn't there before I swapped heads. My pulley also appears to be fine, I inspected it when I removed it during the swap. I think this winter it'll be time to take the pulley...

I'm having the same sound after doing a timing belt job- no one seems to have an answer. I'm thinking the cause might be an over-tightened balance belt. The harmonic balancer (crank pulley) is also suspect but it was fine and didn't show any signs of wear or separation. Any help would be...

:barf: :shhh:there goes my appetite.however I have been a steady diet of spicey chicken burritos and cheesy fiesta potatoes...mmm.

I'm sure that's what he tells all this friends... :laugh:

I'm happy to announce the lifter tick is gone! I decided not to change the oil twice so I went to pep boys and bought some Marvel Mystery Oil; got out to the parking lot and dumped it in. There were no immediate results. I got back from vacation and picked my car up at the rental place after...

I grounded the plug and set base timing 5*, she seems to be running much better. Judging by the difference in performance it's important to have your base timing set correctly. The noise coming from the head is definitely lifter tick. I'm going to have it changed to Mobil 1 and add some Lucas...

I know but I needed a quick fix because it wasn't even adjusted. At 2am I just wanted to get it roughly in the ballpark - I'll do it properly when I get home. :thumb:

Knock count was around 22-25 at 18% TPS and 21*-23* of timing. it only lasted a few seconds. What I wonder about is why the engine doesn't knock but timing goes down as I accelerate. There are a few instances of knock like I described but it doesn't seem to attribute directly to increased...

Well, I tore the car apart again last night...finished around 2am, car runs and drives ALMOST perfect. When I did the timing again I rotated the exhaust cam clockwise and the intake cam counter-clockwise until they lined up on the plane (checked it with a straight-edge ruler) then proceeded to...

Damnit I think I know why this is happening...when I did the t-belt I rolled the intake cam forward slightly to make the belt notches line up correctly with the sprocket teeth. I had a problem with rolling the exhaust cam one tooth then aligning the crank; that might have something to do with...

Well Roast Beef the first couple of times I did the belt I put the car back together, car was running as you described. It was chugging and would sound like it wanted to die, the ECU was compensating and keeping it running. After that I re-did the timing belt, this time making sure ALL the...

I'm currently using Quaker State High Mileage Oil, same as before. I didn't think it would make that much difference, but maybe it does. This head is just much louder and I'm used to having a quiet DSM :)unfortunately the noise seems to be affecting the performance, though :(my car...

The product description from eBay:"This auction is for one cylinder head assembly as removed from a 1992 Eagle Talon TSI Turbo All wheel drive. This head was just rebuilt and installed at the local Mitsubishi dealership onto a car that was then side -swiped only 350 miles later. The car was...

What could be causing this? I did the timing belt, it was off a tooth a couple of times but I fixed it, the car idles perfect. The head seems a little loud, loud enough that it isn't lifter tick (not a *tick*tick*tick, more like *clack*clack*clack). When I accelerate with more then 2-3psi I...

I used a 7/8" socket and finished the belt, now the engine runs crappy. 43 counts of knock! :|that's another thread...

It helps when the car isn't in gear :laugh:I'm an ass. Thank god ignorance isn't painful :p

:laugh: :laugh: :eek: :shhh: :D :thumb: