Do you still have these?

The service manual calls it the "Front Deck Garnish"-- I thought that was funny. Anyway, I want to take that plastic grill thing off that's under the windshield and wipers, so I can paint it black (it's badly faded). I see in the service manual how it's installed, but I don't get how to get...

You definitely need to check with AEM. There's some issue with getting the EMS to work with the stock TCU that causes problems. One guy a few years ago got it work (don't remember his name), but he said it was very difficult.

The lag is not a problem. I'm running an 18G on my A/T-- even though you're AWD and have a tad more drivetrain loss, it's not an issue.

That's the spirit! :dsm:

And the other verdict is to take a few minutes and actually read some of the thread if you're interested in the answer instead of asking to be spoon-fed.

I thought Al Gore invented the Internet.

I have that exact Dejon 1G adapter on my SSQV knockoff and it works great-- it's a really nice piece. Just for extra leak protection, I applied RTV around the inside edge between the adapter and BOV before I mounted the adapter to the intercooler piping. As I mentioned before, no leaks at up to...

My Monza SSQV is still performing well. I've leak-tested it to 25 PSI and it's leak-free.

Max base pressure. To update, I've had mine for a few months now and seems to be performing flawlessly.

OK, cool-- thanks. Yeah, clamps I got. :D

Ooh, good timing on this thread. I was just told that my tie rod ends were shot as well, but I think the guy said inner tie rod ends. Are those just as easy to replace as the outers?

1) I'm not sure but I could guess if you want. Probably keeps the A/C from coming on above 5000 RPM. 2) Makes the stock boost gauge register knock. Do it. 3) Prevents ECU from getting nervous about seeing too much air and thus shutting down the engine. DEFINITELY do it. 4) They're asking you if...

A local DSMer just told me that too-- I'll try that.

Yeah, me too-- I've read differing stories about how much this pump can handle. I have a Walbro pump laying around here somewhere that a buddy of mine gave me a while back. Now if I could only find it, I could tell if it's a 190 or a 255...

Violator, sounds like a good plan. My fuel trims were pretty dead on the last time I checked them, but it's been a while. Definitely time to recheck them-- good call. All the timing sliders are at zero, and on a knock-free run (like yesterday with the 110 gas), I get 15.2 degrees of timing...

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumpflowrates.htm

Peak airflow is just over 37 lbs/min. RRE says the VR4 pump is rated at 180lph at 12V at 43 PSI. For comparison, the Walbro 190 is rated at like 168 lph at 12 volts.

I cannot get rid of some persistent knock at about 5000 RPMs and up. I've added fuel to the point of not wanting to add more (I'm at about +3 on the DSMLink fuel sliders for 5000 and up). I'll be doing yet another boost leak test REAL soon, but short of that, is there maybe a possibility that my...

I dunno-- RRE says that the VR4 pump at 12 volts flows 180lph @ 43 PSI @ 12V, while the 190 flows 168.45 lph @ 43 PSI @ 12.5 V. I guess this is a case of choose who you want to believe, although stealth316's real world test data seems pretty convincing. Anyway, if you want to be the king, just...

To update, my core had a small leak in it (internal, not DV/DT's fault) so I sent it back in. Albert replaced it free and shipped it back to me last week. And this is after I had the kit for about a year.The new core is now on the car, but I haven't had it dynoed or anything yet. I had the...

You should definitely add a bigger tranny cooler. The stock one is like the size of a shoe. I went with the B&M SuperCooler; I think the model # is 70268. It's the 8 x 11 one. I mounted it where the stock SMIC was, since I did it at the same time as my FMIC install.

I'm pretty sure it's not ready to run-- the spark plug wires aren't even hooked up.

I've been told that the LubeGard actually makes the fluid MORE "slippery," not less (still looking for confirmation on that...). Supposedly the LG just puts the coefficient of friction in the proper range that the Mitsu tranny wants. If you're making significantly more HP than stock, though, it...

I'm not sure. Mine would just flare when it shifted into O/D, so I went ahead and changed the end clutch right then. I have heard of it acting both ways-- just revving, and not going into O/D at all.

That's a lot more buildup than I ever see in my catch can. Are you sure your head gasket's OK? Any white smoke in the exhaust?

Anybody having problems with it surging/fluttering after it's been adjusted? My SSQV flutter annoys me sometimes and I've been pointed toward the Forge BOV.

Yeah, that heat shield is my number one suggestion to the original poster.

That might be kinda cool. Although I don't need reminders of how old I am... :DSomeone mentioned Aslan (NosLaser) earlier. He's more into Mustangs now-- I see him occasionally. I just got a Mustang too (still have the DSM), so I still seek his advice every now and then.

End clutch is cheap and easy; I'd do that first and see if that fixes the problem.

Sounds about right. I agree with gotlag in that a flush isn't that crucial. A do-it-yourself drain and refill will use about 7 quarts. I use the Mobil 1 synth ATF with no problems. My tranny shop recommended not putting in the LubeGard, which disagrees with what IPT recommends; I'm still torn...

I'm using a VR4 pump with 780s and an 18G. Works fine. It actually outflows a Walbro 190, but not either of the 255s.

Depending on your local racetrack, the answer may be different. You might not pass tech with your battery in the back unless it's in a sealed box, even if it's an Optima.

Actually the VR4 pump outflows the Walbro 190*, but still, you won't need an AFPR for it. I ran it for about a year with no problems and only recently got an AFPR.* VR4 pump at 12 volts is 180 lph, while Walbro at 12.5 volts is 168 lph if you look at those RRE pages closely. The "190" rating...

Efficiency is important all the time, but yes, especially on pump. BTW, I believe VRMAN on here is running a 57-trim on his car; PM him for details.

Yes, you can, but it's a little bit of a hack to make it fit. I have one on my car and it works great, once you finally get it installed.

Or: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/catchcaninstructions.htmScroll down to the section called "Options:"

You don't really need a wideband with DSMlink, at least for starters. Sure, it's a nice to have, but nowhere near "critical".

No, the AFPR automatically raises fuel pressure for every pound of boost it sees. That's why you connect it to a boost source.

Call a dealership with the serial number of the radio and they'll give you the code (well, some won't because they're asses, and some will try to charge you-- keep calling around until you find one that's cooperative). The S/N for the radio is right on top of it in the front-- just pop off the...

Keep it at 43.

Mods in profile, 34 lbs/min at 20PSI with a couple of decent-size boost leaks (will be fixed soon, I hope).

Probably. End clutch kits are only about $75 or so and easy enough to install yourself. The main thing I'd suggest is a tranny cooler at this point.

Yeah, good link. That's what originally inspired me to upgrade the supply line from filter to rail. I still think that he should just try the banjo bolt elimination and see if that's good enough. When I put an Earl's filter inline with the -6AN line, it caused my car to run unbelievably rich, so...

I've been told by several sources that the stock filter, once you remove the banjo bolt thing, isn't much of a restriction. I don't have any definitive flow numbers (GPH or whatever) for it though. I'd try just the banjo bolt elimination kit first and see how that goes, and then upgrade the...

Mark, if you just need the fuel rail -AN adapters, Diamond Star Motorsport has them, as well as Auto Alchemy. I think other places too, but those are a start. They're about $25 apiece. I have a -6AN line from the filter to the rail and it works fine. There's an adapter by Goodridge that screws...

That TC looks pretty good. About the valve body, though, I don't really see putting down almost four bills for another one if you already have a shift kit installed in the one you have now. The cost benefit ratio is not in your favor on that one, IMO. I'd think you could find much better bang...

Well the AGP kit (usually one of the "Featured Products" links at top of this page) and the SlowBoy kit both use the same core and are a few hundred less.

Mine uses the Spearco 2-216 core. Here's the writeup: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177047