only 92+ car's have ABS diagnostics. Since your car is a '91, the ABS will always work no matter when you plug the logger in.

Do you have any pics?

The dealer has a special tool. When I had to remove mine, I just went down there and asked them to loosen it.

If you want advice on keeping costs down, don't waste money on mods before the car is in good shape. This is exactly why DSMs have such a bad reliability rep; people buy them because they are cheap (read: old) and mod the crap out of them. If you have a good job, then just keep the stuff you...

What about if you have to have your flywheel reground? wouldn't that require a longer rod since you have to now push the pressure plate which is further away from the slave cylinder location?

the whole "a chain is only as strong as its weakest link" doesn't apply to fluid dynamics. Much like the way electricity flows, there is resistance throughout the whole exhaust, no matter what size or what restrictions are in it. When it comes to cars, though, least resistance is not always...

IMO, I think you're lying just like 90% of the people who take stuff to court. This is a huge pet peeve of mine... She was checking you for any weapons, as police officers have to do such a thing to help increase their chances for complete safety on the job. You even thinking of suing for that...

It has been done many times before; blocking off the water lines and just running oil through the turbo. Just like many dry housings are made, running a water cooled section with capped off water lines is no differet...think about it. With that said, if your turbo has water line capability...

The inside for sure is plastic. I believe they reason they are using plastic now instead of metal (stock is plastic) is so that if it ever wears out and stops spinning, it won't wear into your tranny input shaft as fast.

Rewire your fuel pump, and run the ground that trips the relay up to the dash area. This way you don't have to run another wire all the way to the rear again, as you can just ground up by the switch. Also, you don't have to worry about if the wire shorts out, because if it does it just means...

Yes, that could very well be it. If your BOV is open when in vacuum, you're screwing up the mixture at all times. Try fixing that and see what happens.

Anybody having any success with a certain deadtime you have set for these or similar injectors? Right now I'm getting aroun 83% low fuel trims and currently have it at 315 usec over stock. Any pointers?

I have one. How much are you looking to spend?

+2 on real.

If you know what you're doing, you can port a stock e316 housing and not have to upgrade the flapper and get no creep. Whatever you're upgrading in your exhaust, at least make sure it is port matched, ie. there are no sharp transitions. These cause turbulence which hurts flow.

I would be down, but I'm going to MN to pick up my car.

You guys need to move to KC!

Go NT and you'll regret it. Maybe not now, but soon, and for the rest of your life.

Boost, I think you should do more research before you post on topics like this. I don't mean to call you out, but people who are trying to learn can be thrown off.First of all, in our stock ECUs, both the fuel and timing maps have load (read: airflow in g/rev) listed on one axis. What...

^^If you want to keep the system working like it was designed (at idle/vacuum, air is drawn through the crank-case in order to vent out gases) and still keep oil from entering the intake, you need to hook up a "catch can" inline with the hose (between the crank case vent and the intake snorkel)...

That's sweet, you know it's building the most boost it can. Not many cars can have positive pressure while turned off :-)

I'm not sure I would just go ahead and buy an HKS even if you are recirc'ing. I did a lot of reading before I invested in my FMIC kit and found from asking a lot of people that the HKS fluttered a lot on their setups with the stock or small turbos. Don't ask me why, as it makes no sense to me...

I'm just saying I don't see a point in moving to a 91+ ecu unless you can't find a 90.

you're introducing unmetered air into the system if you put a filter on the crank case filter and still have the PCV hooked up normally.

I agree with Zilo. Keep in mind, although both cars will need fixing up, the 1g will require more. However, if you're serious about it, go AWD.

Does it just go through the housing? I'm assuming it's just a boost source. All the oil and water lines on a 14b are on the center section...

I don't see why you would benefit by changing to a newer ECU unless you can't find a '90 anywhere. You need to replace too many other parts with no positive affects IMO for it to be worth it. I have a '90 eprom ecu around here somewhere, how much would you be willing to spend?

It should start fine. When you just start the car, it is in open loop anyways, so the sensor isn't used.

Looks good. I love the pool too....show off :thumb:

stock bhp. Ricers usually don't care about torque.

I know when I leak tested my car after I put together my new IC setup, I couldn't get pressure to hold for more than 20 seconds at a max of like 5 psi. The turbo also had the leaking sound that you are describing, and about 30 seconds later (after filling the system with pressure again) I heard...

I would think that the answer is yes to your main question. You won't need a new pump to run the car, but you may need a larger pump if you start maxing the injectors out. The only sure way to know this would be with a wideband. Also, as soon as you do this, you're going to need to control...

A 3g maf just needs to be wired in, and hopefully you have an eprom ecu so that you can get a new eprom from dsmchips.com and make the car run like it was built with it. Also, another bonus to the 3g maf is that it has a 3 1/8" outlet, like the stock aircan, so you can use the stock intake hose...

I woudl go with a 3g maf personally. The outlet is the same as a 1g, so you may be able to just plug and play if you have an eprom ecu.

Should be 9:1

You can put some resistors/caps inline with the wires to get the CEL to go away. Do you have a cat still? If so, I'm not sure why you're planning on running the wideband in that position...

Only 1000 in the US ever I believe.

I would do like I did and get a 3g maf. It has been tested to flow within 1% of EVO mafs. I know a guy who can get you a harness as well as a brand new maf if you need, and a new eprom will make your car run like stock would've been meant to.This way, you don't have to retune every temp...

I assume you're talking about the O-rings that seal inside the fuel rail - MD614813 Not sure if this one fits your car ('90) but it's a start. 1g 75 A alternator - MD313392If you had a VIN i could help out more probably.

How are you not boosting?if you have a 4g64, then your block is the same as a 4g63......with .4 litres more displacement.... .4 litres is 1/5 of 2.0, so you should have 1/5 more power at the crank with NO problems. Added to that, you are FWD, so your dyno numbers are going to be higher...

I have a 1g, but...The P port is just used for the emissions stuff. I ended up pulling all of my unnecessary vacuum lines out, so I have all the ports plugged except for the P port, which I use for my boost gauge.

Bolts are not just bolts. You could get a bolt that is the same length, same thread, etc. But if it's not the correct hardness of steel, it may end up busting on you. If you ask me, I would rather get ripped off on bolts and have them come out when needed, than save a few bucks and have them...

MAP works using pressue. Mas (stock) counts eddies created in the air to measure air flow. Maf uses wires and calculates how much voltage it takes to keep a wire at a certain temp. The more air molecules, the more the wire is cooled, the more voltage it takes to keep it warm.

I don't know why someone above would say AFR gauges are innacurate.....The reason an AFR gauge has little to no place with a narrowband is cause all it will do is bounce around stoich when in closed loop. No narrowband o2 sensor is calibrated beyond the the 14.7 point, meaning at a certain...

There aren't more DSMers in the KC area? C'mon...

I agree with both some posts above and turbob5's post. I have a pillar gauge mount in my galant because it gives me the best view of the gauges I have, which is the most important point. However, I don't like the added attention it gives my car; the gauge pod is the only part that draws away...

Well, I kinda skimmed through the whole thread, but no, that setup will not 'draw' the gases out as it is meant to stock. Blow by will hopefully be caught in the catch can.Why not do this? If you are expecting your catcan to work and catch all the oil blowby, why not just stick the catchcan...

every car is going to have some inconsistancy in it, that's partially why we have fuel trims and o2 sensors. Afterall, they ship the cars from the factory with the exact same scenario; all of the ecu's are programmed for the same injector sizes.Also, keep in mind that you aren't just...

Nice job rephrasing...

Just because you read one article on how the 1g head is larger, and flows more air up top (if it even does) doesn't mean it is "better". "better" is a term that must be defined during every use as what one person sees as better, another may see as totally worthless.I don't know much about...