a maf sensor and a map sensor are 2 different things...did you remove the map sensor or is it busted, maybe you mounted it with a vacc line? is it leaking? lol need more info i think.-----bump-----
the crack will mess with things, but my guess is you have bigger turbo issues, you should be spooling much earlier then that, and without knock, what are your iat temps under boost?
and uhh disconnect connect the fuel system to keep from washing out the cylinders that will lower them a bit, not to say you dont have an issue they should still be more even throughout. Do a wet compression test to rule out a piston ring issue.
i had a similar problem. If i went full boost i would misfire all over the place and i found myself having to smoke integras at part throttle...I thought it was a tps sensor or cam sensor, because i had done a tune up only 8 months prior. everything tested good, did a coil pack swap for shits...
So the pedal pressure is so low your pumping the pedal to stop...and your saying that you solved this issue by spraying carb cleaner on a piston?? this seems quite unlikely, if you froze a piston on a caliper by spraying it with a ton of paint (damn strong paint too) the pedal pressure might...
im sorry i thought you said the leak was much worse under boost...a small oil leak at idle will still leak, but under boost it would leak much more, assuming a pcv prob.Im not telling you where the leak is, just offering some insight as to why it may be worse under boost conditions.
uhh i didnt read this entire post and i dont have anything helpfull to say but driving your car while on jackstands is pretty wreckless and is bad for your axles/cv's
lol you nooobs do you have any idea how quickly spray paint on a brake rotor would burn/wear off?! hes pumping the pedal to make it stop....seriously that sounds like overspray to you? air in the lines or a bad master, you squeezed in the piston without cracking a bleeder on an abs...
are you recirculating your blow off valve? if you vent it to the atmosphere the car tends to flood itself when shifting under boost and simply stalls, your ecu has allready compensated for the air in your intake system, as its allready gone by the mass air sensor, when you shift it expects this...
if its clicking it means 2 things your battery is to low and will no longer hold any type of charge or like i said before could just be the starter, buy a new battery (because you should always have a strong battery) and if it doesnt start i would investigate that starter.
why would cutting and splicing wires seem like a better idea to you then unplugging it....you know it may be a coincidence but ever consider your starter may have died? lol had that happen with a few cars in the shop before, shit does happen you know.
i agree ^^ sounds like the shock mount....dont by new shocks lol. i had a mazda on the lift the other day and as im raising it i hear a loud bang, the shock mount snapped in half and caused the shock and spring to float around freely. its a fairly common failure point so check it out.
i agree a pad swap doesnt generally require bleeding....a loss of pedal pressure can be due to several problems....a bad master cylinder leaking internally, a bad proportioning valve, or bad brake fluid(i.e. burnt fluid, contaminated ect.) You should always makes sure slidepins are well lubed...
yea man bleed the system. Have someone pump the brake pedal up to build pressure, after several pumps, while keeping pressure on the brake pedal, crack the bleeder screw a turn and watch the bubbles and fluid spill out,(make sure to tighten the bleeder back up before pumping resumes or you will...
it should be wired in by the ecu harness. Its wired inline, so your car will still run but you should at the very least cap your unused wires to prevent a short.
lol my car grounded through the throttle cable too! i've never heard of anyone else with this problem....my throttle cable melted through and caught the insulation on the hood on fire and my entire engine burned down in like 10 mins beyond repair, consider yourself very lucky
lol what happens is too much fuel makes it into your exhaust and is trapt and burned in the cat. eventually the cat will melt down. i doubt you have a problem, those dudes were right you would probably have thrown a code. FOR FUTURE REFERANCE to check for a cat meltdown u can simply look at a...
first pull the relay for the fuel pump or simply disconnect it, then crank the engine a few time to releive all system pressure. then remove your lines(no spray guaranteed) remove the bolts that hold the rail down, you may have to disconnect the plugs on the injectors (label them to avoid any...
i dont think u have bad rings or anything, what does happen is u experience and increase in oil pressure wich will cause things to leak I.E. your exhause studs. also when the oil level is that much over....seems like a quart or so by your description, your crank shaft is slapping around in the...
It works fine...thanks guys.
noz Quote:
Originally Posted by boostnbuds
I was wondering if i could run a walbro 255 pump on a stock fuel setup. can it be done or do i need a reg and all that shitin my opinion, to run it the right way you will need a fpr.we all know the "right...
For anyone who may have the strange throttle related stutter...I had tested everything checked everything and cleaned everything and it turns out no matter how clean and well gapped your spark plugs are they not be 100% my platinums were only 6-8 months old and apparently that was my problem...
well my friend if it was part of the mas it wouldnt be on top of the intake manifold the only sensor with a rubber o ring i believe is the iac motor, idle air controll. make sure its not something on the intake side like a stripped hose clamp or a split connector i actually had that happen to...
You should find where your oil went off too its leaking somewhere it didnt dissapear. your rear main seal could be leaking onto the clutch. have it checked....do it
well if the battery is new the starter is good (you had it tested) you can hear the relay working, so it has to be the wiring somewhere between your starter solenoid and your relay thats all there is to it. im sure thats not what you wanna hear but from your description thats all i can come up...
it sounds like maybe the starter gear is hanging up on the flywheel that would sound awful and that would heat it up pretty good. i agree with the other guy get a junk yard starter and throw that in, if you have the same problems double check that you shimmed it correctly if thats not it...
I have the most annoying problem in the world and i cant figure it out. When i spool boost 12 lbs or more my car does this stutter thing and the power isnt there after it happens you can usually smell the lovely sulfur smell from the cat. It doesnt usually do it unless i go more than 60% into...