The black/white wire in the ignition harness is "ignition 1". It should only have 12v in the On and Start positions. Your wires should be protected against something like this with a fuse rated under the amp capacity of your wire based on its diameter. And yeah, I'd replace the relay.

Part of the outer lip of my A/C compressor pulley is bent in for some reason and causing noise/damage to the belt, so I'm wondering if I can just replace the pulley with one from a used compressor without taking the compressor off the engine, dropping the engine, having to refill the a/c, re-oil...

Good idea. How safe is that for the engine though? Would it be safe to rev it up to around 3k RPM a couple times?I think they solved that issue when they replaced the aluminum version with the steel one with the thinner mounting surface. I put red Loctite on the bolts and they seemed to...

I just installed a Fluidampr after my stock harmonic damper completely separated and now there's a noise that sounds sort of like the noise from polyester/synthetic pant legs rubbing together, except really fast and constant. It's a somewhat high-pitched noise that's not really noticeable from...

Thanks for the advice! Where did it sound like it was coming from on yours though? The sound is definitely much louder near the slave cylinder/clutch fork area on mine.

I followed Jack Transmissions method exactly so it should be ok. I think it may be coming from the slave push rod pressing against the fork. Grease didn't help but when I put a thin piece of plastic between them it seemed to help a little.

I haven't opened up the clutch at all so I've never lubed anything in the bell housing. But it wasn't making this noise before I replaced the MC so I don't get how something like that could have changed.

After replacing my master cylinder, putting in a stainless line and removing the fluid collection unit there's a noise that sounds like creaking rubber or metal whenever I push the clutch pedal in. I have the pedal adjusted as far out as possible for the most travel and the noise mainly starts a...

Well I think I've fixed it. I bled it again the traditional way (had to use a stick though since I did't have anyone to help me), and pushed in the slave to get any trapped air out. And you were right turbowop. There was still a pretty large amount of air in the system. Would not recommend the...

So I replaced my leaking clutch master cylinder & rubber line with a braided stainless line and removed the fluid collection unit. Then I reverse bled (connected a clean hand-pumped oil can full of brake fluid to the bleed screw with a clear line) twice with the cmc rod backed all the way out &...

Another good way to bleed the clutch, especially if you've replaced some components and the system is completely full of air, is to do sort of what the video I posted shows. Get an oiler (this one worked pretty well for me Amazon.com: Tooluxe 9 Oz High Pressure Oiler for Lubricants: Home...

Where did you get the OEM MC cap? I was thinking about doing the same thing but couldn't find just the cap on ebay. Can you post a picture of how you have it modified?Love your car btw. Interesting tow hook placement. :p

Holly shit, is it really 13 years old now?! OMG Didn't even realize. The reason I was trying to reverse bleed wasn't the time, it was the fact that air rises so it's supposed to be a much better method of getting all the air out of the system. What method would you go with instead? I could do...

Cool, thanks for the help. What about when I need to bleed the whole system though? Can I use the reverse pressure bleeding technique with ABS or will it screw up the accumulator? I was planning on flushing it first the normal way, then doing the reverse bleeding. So there should be fewer...

Couldn't find an answer so I thought I'd start a thread. I'm just changing pads and rotors and heard (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/1127-brake-rotor-vfaq.html#post7645) that you can't compress the pistons since it forces fluid back up into the ABS unit and damages it. Supposedly...

A little update: I found out that I probably have the newer IAC that Mitsu started putting in their cars starting in 2000. This one actually should be 40 ohms, not 28-33 like the manual says. So that checked out on mine. But I pulled the IAC off the TB and did the 6v battery test and there was...

Okay, I finally got home and was able to do the IAC/ISC tests (thanks for the recommendation btw). I got almost exactly 40 ohms on all pins. I thought it was kind of weird that it was so consistent right at 40, but oh well. So that's above the 28-33 that it should be, but should that really...

Okay, I have been dealing with this problem forever and finally wanted to see if I could get some help with it. Short story: Whenever I disconnect my battery to work on my car I will have to let it "re-learn" its maps or idle or whatever for 10-15 minutes.If I take off one of the battery...

The HKS TRB02/CTR230 seems to do pretty well given that it has the quickest recorded lap on Tsukuba and several other tracks. And the next quickest car is another high-boost Evo owned and financed by a dentist from Japan.

Yeah, that was pretty much my point. I was just saying in these 4 cyl vs. 8 cyl debates the V8 guys usually say it's the best because displacement owns all. But they don't seem to realize the same thing can be said against them because V8s aren't the highest displacement engines. Even in stock...

Forced induction W16 > Forced induction V8

Crazy, I would've never thought you could plug the LC-1 right into the PC. Gotta love EvoScan! So how did you wire the dedicated switched power and ground? Did you add a fuse?

I'm trying to install an Innovate LC-1 wideband and XD16 gauge, and data log it in Evoscan. But I've run in to two problems.It seems like most people wire it into the rear o2's ECU input (pin 75), but I want to keep my rear o2 since I can't tune it for a while since I can't afford the...

Well I did another test and found that my o2 sensor is definitely shot. It doesn't cycle at all, and it wont go above 0.1v or so even when racing the engine. And also the heater has no continuity so that's not working at all.So I guess what I'm still wondering is will the car be able to run...

I got a P0135 (Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1) CEL, and so I tested the front o2 sensor by unhooking the sensor and checking the resitistance accross the two black wires which I'm assuming are the heater wires. I didn't get any reading no matter how I connected the leads (I...

Well the belts seem to be tight and the squeaking is still there. Tightened the alt. belt but that didn't do anything. Can't really turn the belts past 90*. It really sounds like it's coming from the p/s pully. And it seems to be wobbling a bit when the engine's running. Can't move of wobble it...

Thanks guys. Hopefully it's just the belt. If by some chance its one of the pulleys, like the p/s, how do you stop that from squeeking?

I've been getting this squeeking coming from the belts area after starting up the engine. It's usually only apparent after the car's been off for a long time, & it quiets down after around 5-10 mins. Could be a loose belt since I just replaced the alternator, so I'll tighten that. (Anyone have...

Thanks. :thumb: I guess I'm gonna be making a trip to the auto parts store to have them test it then.OT: Defiant, or whoever the mod is, I don't think this topic is really resolved at all yet. Could you maybe change it from Resolved?

The one I bought was just a generic copy off ebay (not the Megan, which I've heard sucks). It did come with everything you need. Like I said the hole needed to be enlarged slightly. The thing I forgot to mention is that the threads for the shift knob were not exactly the right size and were...

Mine was a PITA to install. The hole in the short shifter wasn't big enough to slide onto the shifter pivot. I had to glue sand paper around a dowel to enlarge the hole (probably took a couple hours total). I could have also just sanded the car's shifter pivot, which would have been a lot...

Sorry to bring this back, but I've had this exact same problem for soooo long and I want to get rid of it! I installed a complicated alarm myself, so I had to take the neg battery cable off dozens of times. But if I took it off for more than about 2-3 minutes the car would "forget its idle" as...

I think you mean Amps instead of Volts right? Car off should be drawing about 35 mA (for computer, etc).

The guy I bought mine from in 2005 was asking $11,000 and that's what I paid. But I would have paid just about anything lol. That was the KBB value for excellent at the time too. It's a '99 and had around 49k miles, excellent condition aside from a couple chips on the driver's fender, black...

Hey thanks a lot! So the dealership should have em right? They're not discontinued like the floor mats?

Racism, narcissism, and a complete serial-killer-like disregard for anyone but themself...You get the award for the biggest loser I've ever seen on a DSM forum. :thumb: Which to you I'm sure is a complement. We can only hope you will be banned.

Searched and got zero results... I'm looking for the clips or whatever they're called that go through the 2g driver's floor mat to hold it in place. Tried ebay, google, here, dsmtalk, dealership online parts catalog, etc, and no luck. Anyone know where to get them?

Alright, thanks Defiant.

I just installed an alarm with remote start in my car (manual trans), and I'm trying to make it not be able to start while in gear. So I'm wondering if there is a neutral wire or gear position indicator or anything that would tell the alarm it's not in gear? There is a neutral safety wire listed...

RRE and Dejon Tool make an upper intercooler pipe too. You can find them used for under $50. I believe the 1g BOV flange should work for the Type-S if you drill new bolt holes in the flange (the Type-S bolt holes are closer together).

Well, there doesn't seem to be any up-down or side to side movement of the front wheels. I guess I'm kind of at a loss for what could be wrong with it. Could the rears be at fault?

Checked for vibration on the spring while rotating the wheel in neutral, but couldn't feel any. I somehow forgot to check for play in the wheels though. So I might jack it up again tonight if I get time. So does this rule out the wheel bearing or should I still get that checked?

Alright , I'll give these a try tonight.So would the fact that it only happens when turning left effect this at all since I can't simulate turning left with the test?

It has been happening for around a year or so. Only happens when turning left (even slightly), and goes away when straight or turning right. And it only happens (or I can only tell it's happening) at speeds above about 45 mph. It's a noise/vibration that fades in and out about every 2 seconds at...

You never fail to crack me up Defiant.Thanks for the help guys! :dsm::talon::laser:

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I really appreciate it!Yup. Sorry, I should have been more clear.Not leaking any oil (yet LOL).Ok, well from what I'm hearing I should leave it alone until the next oil change unless it starts to leak...And feel like a dumbass for not checking if...

I just changed my oil and noticed a washer in the pan. I'm 90% sure it's the washer that's supposed to go on the oil drain plug, but it's just a plain somewhat thick silver washer, not the copper crush washer that I'm pretty sure it's supposed to be. I've already driven on it today until I...

Cool, thanks Defiant! ;)

So the threads on my ebay clone B&M short shifter are not the same as stock (10mm x 1.25). I thought about just hacksawing the threaded portion of the SS off and using a die to put the correct threads below it (which would also lower the shift knob :D). But the area below the threads is wider in...