My current 62.9mm Xona Rotor is definitely better than the similar but older 3586HTA, having run 7.58 on that thing in a t3 housing. To compare non nitrous ETs on both turbos my best on the 3586 was a 8.3x and on the XR version 7.93. Not a good back to back test by any means, but the XR turbo is...
Yeah, it looks like you guys are right. I could have sworn I remember looking it up and the standard 35r turbine being 64mm, but it indeed 62mm. The HD3582s are 62mm as well. I definitely swapped turbine housings between the 3586hta and the HD3582 BB and JB, but I did use the XR turbine housing...
It's basically a 7864S, just stretched 1 more mm to the maximum 62.9mm allowed by most rules. Worth 2 more lbs/min. The 3586 used the standard 64mm GT35R turbine. It's also the same size turbine in the HD3582 series turbos. Turbine housings interchanged on all of these for me. There may be...
I'm not sure if this helps, but testing a XR 8064S vs 3586HTA, I have some data. Same size turbine wheel, in fact I installed both turbos in the same ~.82 T3 housing. Back pressure dropped from 1.4:1 to 1.2:1. There is a perceptible increase in lag on the 2 step but nothing that matters to me...
After running 8.39 on a Forced Performance HD3582 (their low budget 35R variant) at the shootout last year, I decided to try some other turbos in this size range. Over the winter I switched to an older FP 3586HTA that I borrowed from a friend. That went 5.12 and 7.99 for ET with a 100 shot in...
I'd like to touch on the AFR wave issue quickly, since it has become a major problem for a lot of people in the last few years and people are probably finding this thread searching it. It's unrelated to global scaling. Global scaling, by definition, would move all the peaks and valleys up or...
I did indeed run 7.92 or so at 180 MPH back in 2014 on a T3 Super 99. 2500 lbs or so, so the car is light but not crazy light. Our street class 2g was 2750 for comparison. I give more of the credit to the turbo, it was a solid unit. Back pressure to boost pressure was in the 1.4:1 range at full...
I think I've missed some updates here. Sometime over the winter I reset the no nitrous record to 9.92 at 126. It has gone 137 I think for a best MPH, I don't remember why I lifted there. 60 foot was a 1.33, which blows my mind a bit (this was still no prep in the winter).I then put a new...
Thanks guys! That was a fun side project for many years. I've always said that when I put the 16g on the car for shits and grins back in 2011, and got it down to 10.31, that was what made the car fast. I was stuck for years at 8.80-8.90, and after that, marched right on down to 7.90. Being...
I typically do 90 ft lbs every time. I just bumped them up to 100. Sometimes it's a bi*** to get the double o-rings settled into the thick copper gasket I run and it will take several retorques. Everything looked good in this case, I think it may have just been a touch overfilled on the water...
I hope so. About all I can do now is lighter driver and an inlet scoop to force feed the turbo a bit. Going to go retorque the head, check the plugs, and try again tomorrow.
Was just coming here to add that. This was on the Holley ECU. Same exact ET it ran on ECMlink, for what it's worth. 10.12 on the dragy, so likely another mid 10.0x (previously ran 10.04). HP was measured at 480 on that pass. No prep, water burnout. So close!
I did end up running it again at our track rental on Sunday. Same 42 psi boost. It really wants to knock the tire off on the gear change, I had to pull a good but of power out of it in that area, but it ran a pretty good number on low boost. All the data looks good. I'm pretty happy with it...
I've got mine running again on the compound turbos. Starting out on WG spring it's making 42 pis boost, 50 psi back pressure, and ran a 5.48 at 128 on a 1.23 60 foot, which all sounds good to me. I'm going to turn the boost up to 48 psi or so and run some low 5s for a while.
Yeah, that probably should have happened 15 years ago. :DHere's another vid from a few days prior to the one linked above. This was with the WGs rigged up to allow boost to come down to 20-22 psi (normal minimum is 40-42 on the compound setup). These were the first clean pulls on the Holley...
My advice is to run the biggest hotside you can get on the atmospheric turbo. A smaller one will spool quicker, especially with a smaller HP compressor like that 68HTA, but back pressure goes up. If you do decide to try a T4 housing, go with the biggest one you can find.
Lol, sounds like we're in the same boat. I opened this one up some time ago and it looked really good, aside from the thrust plates, so I'm hoping it's not all bad news. I asked waterman if I could get the thrust plates but their guy said they're sized/clearanced to the pump gears so it has to...
I've pulled this POS out for a test pass a number of times this year with no luck. Constant issues with clogging injectors it seems. I bought a cheap injector cleaning machine so I can do it here, which helps. But I get a clean burnout, then it won't make a pass, lol. Time to throw the whole...
You'll want to adjust the TPS to the throttle position, not the throttle position to the TPS. :) Let it warm up and see if it'll idle on its own. It's the only way to see the rest of the data to know what else it might need. Rarely it is a one thing fix, you'll have 4 or 5 things to adjust once...
Strangely, it's often a good sign when it needs more air bypass. All vac leaks will result in needing to close the throttle more, and that's the case 99% of the time. If it turns out to just need more air, that's usually not a bad problem to have.
Yup, the absolute number one factor in idle speed is airflow bypassed around the throttle (throttle plate opening, BISS, FIAV, ISC, and vac leaks). AFR (normally closed loop and not adjustable) and timing (if idleSW = 1 the ECU will control timing to fine tune idle speed to target on TPS/RPM...
If the throttle body is all that changed you almost certainly need to open up the throttle plate at idle as I mentioned. That is something that is adjustable, and 99% of DSMers know nothing about it for some reason.As for the ticking, I'd say that's a bomb, and I'd GTFO.
I'd bump the VE up to 65 in the whole top left corner where it's ~55s, and open up the BISS enough to get it to idle on it's own. What that done, there should be better data that will give a better idea of where to go next.Edit> I see BISS is already all the way out, open the throttle plate...
In order for compounding to work, the atmospheric compressor has to be biggest. As a very general rule of thumb I like the atmospheric compressor to be twice the flow of the high pressure compressor, so three turbos accomplishes that exactly. Two 16Gs in parallel feeding one 16g in series, if...
I've wanted to do a triple turbo compound setup (all identical turbos) for a long time. Usually it's 3 35Rs, but if this 16g goes nines, I might as well see what 3 will do. :)That converter is one of the best things I ever did. Being able to service it and make changes to it myself is huge.
Now that you mention it, I've been meaning to get an underside pic. I get messages asking for certain details and I never have one. I have to move it out of the lift bay tomorrow, with any luck I'll remember to put it in the air and grab a picture first.
Man, looking at my previous update, 2020 didn't really happen. :D I put a stockish motor and a 16g back in it for some fun though. Most of that story is in the 16g discussion thread, but it ended up retaking the 16g record (no nitrous), which I last had in 2011, with a 10.24, last summer. As...
It blows the tires clean off and I lift before I crash the POS. Not much MPH to be seen. :D The bare pavement in the second half of the track has decent grip, but the old, cold rubber is doomed without some money poured into it, it's as slick as ice. It's peeling pretty bad too. Time has just...
Well, lots of progress, but not on the ET slip. At this point in the year it's too hard to get enough grip in the track without spending way more time and money that it's worth.I've had an incurable intermittent misfire since August. It eventually killed that 2 liter engine. So it had that on...
The Minoct timing table is the lowest timing that the ECU will target, but not the lowest it can run. Knock Retard will still reduce timing below that, if activated.To put it another way, you can think of Knock Retard as a short term knock trim, and the Min Oct table as a long term knock...
Straight "out of the shop" it ran a 10.10 and a 10.04 today. I spent some time on the track, but it was pretty hopeless. The 60 foot was a 1.39 so not terrible. It logged 474 hp on the first pass (no log on the second).
For some reason the 2 step is really violent on the 16g, to the point that it will kill the motor sometimes. That was 30 psi anyway.Right on with not enough power to use the suspension. It's setup for three times the power, and I don't want to make major changes to it. I did move the ladder...
I'm still farting around with this. A week ago it was running like shit (had been for a while) and broke the number 3 rod or piston. In hindsight I think I know why. After all kinds of troubleshooting BS and putting the Mighty Max's 2.3 stroker in the car it's sorted out. Coil #4 shit the bed...
Nothing yet. Just waiting on the weather at this point. The nest time DA gets near zero with decent weather we'll send it.I guess looking back, I did weight it, 2335 with me in it this time, so it did lose some weight on this setup despite adding the bars for the 7.50 cert in 2012. And it did...
IAT maxes out at 302F. About a second later it seems to revert to using the ECT sensor, which makes airflow shoot way up, and fuel flow along with it. I disabled the IAT sensor to get around it (again), but it takes VE in the 60% range to make it work.On my last run it shot a lot of fire out...