have you at least pulled the spark plug yet for that cylinder to determine if it's a piston/ring. Floated valve sounds like the case to me. I've cracked ringlands before and rings, they still give a little compression. A lost valve will yield none for sure. I figure if it was a cracked...

I say add more than a few drops of oil. Try a teaspoon of oil if it's that bad, won't hurt it. Down to 30psi, you must have a chipped valve. If you have access to a compressor than it's easy to do leakdown. Take the hose off your compression gauge, remove the check valve. Set to 50psi and...

you said water cooled intercooler, then you mentioned radiator cap? I hope you're only talking about an air-2-water intercooler and not your engine coolant radiator.You can run it if you want to, expect a lot of fizzling and wait for it to settle (then add more water when you can). I don't...

how many miles on the motor? Definately not all that rich. My pistons usually look a bit blackened up on anything I pull apart.How did the plugs look? Can you supply some more detailed pics?

some DSM cars don't throw CELs, my brothers car was one that likes to throw a CEL for any possible reason it can. What I did was took a spark plug anti-fowler in the correct thread/pitch (I'm thinking it was 18mmx1.5 - may be wrong). The anti-fowler was hard to find for that pitch, I just...

good call on the moisure, completely overlooked that when responding. Makes me wonder why some map sensors from the factory on N/A cars aren't mounted in the down spot.

in regards to the remote sensor reading boost, no placement will not matter at all. Pnumatic instruments don't 'read' gravity. I could see a very slight difference with say a hydralic sensor, but placement shouldn't matter regardless.At least an electronic gauge will be slightly more...

oops, I meant to say a couple of couplers and a piece of exhaust pipe to match your diameter. I would expect anyone running a turbo car to have extra silicone couplers laying around. The worm drive clamps can be found at the hardware store. If you're short on silocone pick up some rubber hose...

the point i was making to him was about air intakes and how they suck up air. Colder air coming from just a few inches off the ground is going to be a lot densor than a short ram intake sucking air that is circulating from the engine bay.I then went off in a sub tangent and started talking...

I forgot all about throttle butterfly. You're right, that is like a 15 psi difference. Don't forget to pull the ecu fuse to make sure fuel added to the combustion chamber won't skew the reading.I had a head gasket go on me a little bit ago on my integra. So I quickly pulled all the plugs...

I'm sorry, I was thinking of the FITV (fast idle thermo valve). But yes, the IACV is ecu controlled.The coolant temp sensor does have an interaction with the cars cloed loop/open loop operation.

my expereince with the single diaphram 2g bov is when vented it likes to suck in air. Leaning out your already pre-metered fuel mixture will cause knock while not under boost.If your head is leaking oil into the combustion chamber, yes that will also cause knock. Oil reduces the octane...

if it's only short only 4 inches have you considered just a quick fix of adding a couple of couplers? I know that it isn't the permenant solution that you're looking for but it will get you on the road.Oh, and the local exhaust shop will be crush bending pipes for you, do you really want the...

if I may suggest; dump the AFR since it's pretty much functionless and innacurate. Pick up something important like an oil psi gauge. The EGT that you have should be enough, if you can afford it upgrade that to a wideband o2 gauge.

yes, the IACV reads collant temps and is controlled by the ECU. I know that the cheap $1 worth of radioshack parts that kids spend $20 on via ebay are mainly wired for the IATs (intake air temp) sensors.Coolant temp sensors are a bit different, those only tell the computer that the car is...

depends on the angle that you drilled them at, but you may actually have compromized threads on the 10mm studs as well. I would suggest mocking up whatever your solution may be (bigger studs or a helicoil setup) and then mixing up some JB weld for a permenant fix.I'm not there to call the...

if you're running a high horsepower track car than yes, I think having one couldn't hurt. For the average street car it's not really neccessary. The most practical gauges are boost and oil psi (that's all I'm running on my integra). Next in line would be a nice wideband meter if you can...

if this is in reference to an air intake (which I would assume so since it's a common/easy upgrade) than consider this.A longer intake will usually place itself in a lower spot on a car. Basic physics suggest that the air on the ground is cooler in compared to the air higher (thus cold air...

that belt is easier compared to doing a timing belt change on the 420a. I'll never work on one of those again

the wierd thing about his situation is all the numbers are equal. I've had rings go and you'll see some variance in numbers. But solid across the board.. maybe it's a timing issue?

do you have info on how your bov is modded? I know about the typical crushing and I've heard of modifying the diaphram to hold more boost/deliver quick shiftsoh yeah, you really want the bov sensing changes as close to the TB butterfly as possible. Compressor surge/charge pipes falling off...

those prices are close to double what I pay my trusted machine shop. I understand that a good shop is hard to find.My suggestion is get some small stuff done, talk to the guy - have him do a fun project for you and have a few more come in. Get in good with him and then get the 'buddy...

I am yet to see this problem on a DSM car but on hondas it's a constant plague. The 2 ways to tell if it's shorting on honda cars is first, does the CEL click on then click off (and you can hear it actually 'click'). Next under the hood, the fuel system should pressurize itself between clicks...

indeed. I would worry about oil pressure first. It sounds like oil filter is loose and letting oil get everywhere, which would explain loss in pressure. Probably not the oil filter, but something near there that sees a lot of pressure

The reason why the oil light comes on at a stop light is because the main/rod bearings are gone (most likely from oil starvation or high revs). You will hear a TAP-TAP on startup because the bearings aren't lubed up enough, the oil has to build up the barrier between them and the crank. You're...

I agree with the last post. I like to use hondabond on everything myself. Consider investing in a UV Dye kit.

did the caliper scorth the rotor any? Sounds like the slides aren't lubed to me.

I say accidents happen. Not your fault that the hardline got cut in half by a pair of bolt cutters. The burden of proof is a difficult thing to show.

my vote is the UV kit. You pour like an ounce of UV Dye into your motor. let it idle for a bit (do this in the evening time) then get the UV light and look for the spot, I bought a kit for doing a/c leak fixes and it has paid for itself already.

Means the car is running in open loop mode versus closed loop mode. Timing and fuel are effected by this. Sounds like a wiring issue

there is a huge difference in the port matching when you have a 1g head on a 2g intake manifold. If you needed a head and a 2g was really cheap then it would work for you, otherwise I would stick with the 1g.

Pistons and rods to start with. I think your biggest issue is going to be engine management. Just getting a an FMU and a walbro fuel pump is a bad idea. You will lose all reliability if you don't have precise engine management and built motor on 22 psi

if you are going to go on the make your own route then research the grainger valve boost controller. It is similar to the HPMBC by turboXS.

I really need one of those! My test piped 97 GST throws a code every week (then I have to get it reset). I spent $200 on new O2 sensors, but still no luck. And no, I can't go back to the stock cat, I took that out, gutted it, then welded a nice fitting exhaust pipe in it's place (that way the...