I really like it. Really nailed the “modernized f&f” vibe they were going for. The wing is stupid, but I love the rest even if some of the choices don’t match my own. It’s been a major inspiration.
That's a shame. I really hoped that BOV would get some revisions and be a good way to get that throwback, period-correct sound for all of us restoring DSMs right now. I had an NGR on my 1G back in 2011(?) and had the same problems those above are experiencing.I guess I'll stick to this...
Love your car my friend. I can't justify those wheels, but I think I'm gonna get the Avid look-alikes now just based on how awesome those look! Keep up the good work. This thread's been motivating!
Back then, DSMs were my source of daily transportation. One of them HAD to run, haha. The best part was the hoist getting stuck in the gravel and having to use an atv to push it into place. Blissful memories.
Inspired by another build thread, I'd like to pin some goals in a public space so I can better hold myself on track.Current GoalsDefeat strut tower rust
New paint
New wheels
Finish 2g head build by 1/1/22
Finish long block assembly 2/1/22
First startup 4/1/22
Street DriveablePass NC State...
Time to get to work. I’ve collected all the bits and pieces and have begun the arduous journey of cleaning, testing, and cataloging. Up first are about 3 quart containers of nuts and bolts. (The tuning fork is just to show how good this stuff works)
Reviving this from the dead just to say, @kidtsi your setup looks amazing and you've inspired me to get 255s on this thing. I don't expect much since you were last active in 2015, but any long term retrospectives you can give?
Love the build and the diary of its progress. It looks great and is motivating. I wanted to ask a question and I apologize if I simply missed the answer. What type of Rustoleum paint did you use on the engine bay and how well is it holding up? 4 stage paint job? (Rust Inhibitor, Primer, Paint...
The HX35s are great, but you can't deny the simplicity of the FP30 or bolt-on setups. (that xona setup sure looks awesome but $$$)Regardless, keep us posted. I'd love to hear your thoughts on the comparison after the switch.
No one knocked FP at all, no need to rant/defend them. I love FP. The complaint on the v2 hta68 is absolutely still valid. Its great turbo but it is an entirely different experience when compared to v1.The twin-scroll reference was made with regard to a wider powerband. I think at the point...
It seems to me that at the point I'd want the black, I'd be willing to spend the dime go to a twin scroll setup.Subbed, because I'm somewhat in the dilemma, but with the red vs green in my case. I originally wanted an hta68, but I'm completely turned off on the v2 results. On the e316g now...
I wanna play!!!The first pic says it all. You guys had to remove oil pans and heads to get to your issues. (aside from the burnt car, I got nothin on that). My rod decided it was tired of being confined to that small space and then the prison break happened.
I think you don't understand your own terminology. You've now switched to arguing before the turbine, in which case, backpressue is not what "spools" turbos. Its the volume, heat, and velocity of exhaust being produced by the motor. Anyway, I'll let the guys that know way more than me continue...
"the smaller exhaust creates back pressure before turbine which spools the turbo faster"So you believe that by making it harder for the turbine wheel to spin, you're increasing spool?bahahahahahaha
^^^ LandSpeed, remember, you can't fix stupid!LandSpeed is 100% correct in everything he's said thus far.... I don't understand why you guys are arguing with the laws of physics. Landspeed is not giving you opinions, he's giving you mother effin FACTS!
I was actually hoping to run 255s on an 8.5" wide RPF1. Enkei doesn't offer a 35mm offset, only 30mm or 40mm. Would it be better to stick with the 9" at 35mm for the 255s? I run Sumitumo HTRIIIs usually (not the best, but I get them cheap).This if for the 2GB of course. Right now I have 7.5"...
For future reference, the ITM is about $150 most places. I also know people have had luck with Rock Autos cheaper options too (the DNJ for $100)RockAuto Parts CatalogOf course, like everyone else, I'd rather have a new OEM, but topline/itm seems to be working fine for many.
Cast cracks too. I had an FP that cracked, and bought a used one that was cracked, both running 16Gs (I have pictures). The cast stock ones are also prone to cracking.
Sorry for bringing this back from the dead.I have a bolt snapped off down there as well... short of pulling the block, does anyone else have any recommendations? It snapped flush with the block.I thought about an right-angled drill, but I still think the space is too tight. As anyone tried...