It is a lifetime recall; I've had mine done more than once (though just fluids/seals, not the replacing the entire transfer case). The problem is that they don't really fix anything. They patch it up by replacing the seals and stuff but the same problems that caused it in the first place still...

Best: Ostrich ROM emulator Worst: Taking honeycomb out of stock MAF

There's basically two main types of fluids that people recommend: 1) BG Synchromesh (many other brands sell the same or very similar fluid too) - thinner and with additives that help the synchros grab better. These will usually improve shift quality. 2) Heavier gear oils, like Redline MT-90 -...

The AC compressor pulley has a clutch that makes it very easy to spin when the AC is turned off. There wouldn't really be any horsepower increase from removing it. You would be saving some weight though by taking all the related components out. It also helps tidy up the engine bay.

You shorted the 12V to ground through your bracelet, not your body. The bracelet took the current and what you felt was the heat of it. There's no reason for much of the current to go through your high resistance body instead of an extremely low resistance metal bracelet. Putting your fingers on...

When you cause a restriction in any kind of flow, you're causing a pressure drop. What a restrictor in the feed line does is restrict flow, yes, but that necessarily will drop the pressure to the turbo too.

Awesome thread, very impressive! I wish I noticed it before.I was wondering, wouldn't it make more sense to have the louvers be on the inside of the fender, pointing below the surface, rather than having the blades stick up into the airstream?

I know that I'll have to spend most of tomorrow trying to study for a test, which makes it hard to want to get to sleep. Another thing making it hard is the audio bliss I'm in right now. And I've been tinkering with equalizer settings so I want to see if I like the new settings more or less than...

It does give you an exact load point. A logged value of 168 will always be exactly the 8th cell. 192 would be the 9th cell. Anything in between would tell you where in between those two you are. You can even very easily set up the table labels for each row in TunerPro to be that 0-255 number...

Wow, thanks for all that, twicks. I've read a lot of your other posts on the QM clutch stuff so I've already seen the details like using shorter flywheel bolts, isuzu slave cylinder, etc. I'm glad you offered input here too.The Optimum-V triple I bought has all the regular Optimum-V parts...

I have a Quartermaster Optimum-V 7.25" triple disk clutch made to be used with the 0.105" disks (and an entirely different car). I intend to use two sintered bronze rally disks with it instead which will make it similar to the usual QM/PTT twin disk kits for our car. Those are 0.250" thick which...

You can hex edit the code to make the load related values show up in whatever logger variable you want. You should be able to find information on how to do this, on the yahoo groups I think. For example, I'm using the TMO logger and I made "Air volume" on the logger display a 0-255 value...

Club DSM Canada is a Canadian DSM forum with a for sale section. You can find plenty of stuff there cheap.

At low boost such as 10psi, the engine shouldn't consume much more air mass with the HX35 than it would with the 14b. My educated guess would be that it should be fine but I don't have any personal experience with that kind of setup. Either way, the wideband and monitoring knock will tell you if...

You should be fine with the holset, just keep the boost set low. It's not going to flow much more than a 14b at low boost. If you're very worried or see signs of knock then just avoid laying on it and hitting full boost. It's no problem getting around going easy on it until you can upgrade more...

I recall seeing someone say that this can happen if you disable ABS the wrong way - maybe by pulling the wrong fuse.

That's not fuel cut, and neither is what the OP is having.Knock on DSMs shouldn't really cause a stutter. Once it detects knock, it'll pull timing and it'll instantly pull slower, so you can feel something when that happens. But stuttering implies it's quickly changing between less and more...

You probably created a boost leak when you ran that much pressure. Boost leaks cause fuel cut to happen earlier.

I thought this was happening to me at first too but then I realized that air wasn't coming out, it was getting sucked in. This seems like it would be normal because air is being drawn out of the valve cover through the PCV valve into the intake manifold, so if you take the hose off the VC...

Those look very different than the OEM ones I bought. For example, the OEM were green, had a metal shell around the widest cylinder, and didn't have that wide base thing at all.

The top of the graph is 461 ft-lb for torque and 570 for hp. So they do cross and the numbers are right, it's just that the torque graph is scaled different (but the numbers still match up if you trace them to the left)

It's probably just out of tune, running with the wrong timing advance or too rich/lean. Fix that and it should be ok. If not, your mechanical timing could be off.

Hmm, it seems like the website is down. It was working earlier today or yesterday though, so it's probably just temporary. Welcome! edit: The forums seem to still somehow know the title of the page even though it's not accessible. Interesting.

Mine can be quiet or quite loud depending on the day. I'm not sure what really determines it. I know the level of fuel has an effect, and I guess the temperature might too but I haven't determined that. Whether it's loud or quiet at the time, I don't find it obnoxious, but I voted loud.Mine...

It should be around 11:1 under boost - 12:1 or leaner is too lean with pump gas under most circumstances.

Load of 2.55 grams per rev = fuel cut

That's not at all what fuel cut is and the problem here isn't fuel cut. It could be phantom knock but it's hard to guess what it really is.

I looked into this before and for the wheels that I found I thought they'd look great and would be awesome for the price (nice and wide) given that the fenders and such be modified appropriately to fit them. However, they were the wrong bolt pattern. It may have been 5x120 or 5x115 or something...

If there's no obvious reason for the phantom knock, reprogramming the ECU to ignore phantom knock can be an easy and very helpful solution. It transformed my car when I got rid of that shit.

I very strongly think that your problem is electrical issues. You're right about noticing how the datalogger numbers jump around and that's not normal at all. It's pretty clear to me what the problem appears to me and it's not what everyone else is talking about.For example, look at your...

I'm from Saskatoon. There's some of us DSM guys around. www.306motorclub.com is the biggest place you'll find local people.

That makes sense.I thought the indented mark goes all the way across the tooth on the sprocket but maybe not. I'll check tomorrow. I just noticed that the sprocket looks symmetrical front to back at fairly quick look. I don't remember how it bolts in there and whether there is some mechanism...

With cylinder 1 at TDC, the cam sprocket dowel pins both face up and the timing notches line up. However, I noticed that my intake cam has "OUT" written in whiteout across it on the outer face and the exhaust cam has "IN" written on it. I imagine this may be the previous owner marking which way...

A 1g is supposed to lose a bunch of timing as it approaches redline because that's what the timing map is set to. It doesn't happen because you're doing anything wrong. It's not ideal but it was probably put there by Mitsubishi just in case to keep the engine from blowing up at redline due to...

I think I could beat TTFAF on expert if I practiced the beginning long enough to pass it. I got 84% notes hit overall last time I tried the song in practice mode. It's a fun song.

Wrong. They're advertised as having 1001ps, not hp :)

A boost leak test is always a great idea, but unless it's really severe, it definitely sounds like your car is picking up knock and pulling back a lot of timing and boost to compensate. This could be real knock, or probably more likely something we call phantom knock, which is when the ECU...

I'm loving the speed. It was such a pain in the ass to browse the forums sometimes before.

Vacuum leaks won't make you run rich at idle. Most things I can think of being commonly wrong would make you run lean at idle. I don't really know what to suggest. Check fuel pressure and make sure your MAS is working properly (maybe try swapping another one). Also check that your oxygen sensor...

When I had the same problems and thought that the FPR I just bought was broken, I found out after some time that it's just the gauge. Fuel pressure was pretty random and hard to adjust. But then I tried tapping the gauge a few times and it moved a whole bunch. I don't know if this can happen to...

That sounds bad. If it's spinning faster while cranking, you probably lost compression somehow. The timing belt could have jumped a few teeth and caused the valves to bend.

The ECU calculates that based on airflow anyway (at least the 1g does) and not things like throttle position. It will run the right amount of fuel/timing for the load it sees.I've heard people saying that it's possible to make it run a lot more boost from the turbo than what shows in the...

It could be "phantom knock." Many people have had it, including myself.

Three of mine are sheared too. Do a search here, there are several topics about it. From what I've seen, there's really no simple way to go about it, considering it's the gas tank we're dealing with. But basically you'd need to remove the old studs and put new ones in.

Check the voltage at the signal pin on the starter solenoid when you try to crank the car. It should go from 0 to 10V or more when you put the key to start (this is the little clip on the solenoid, not the posts). If you don't get power there, check to see if you get voltage on the proper pin on...

And what disadvantage is there with running 1000cc injectors? I don't know why so many people still have this mentality. It's not overkill if it costs negligibly more and will run basically the same.

Yes, that's what we said :)

I don't know about a 2g, but on a 1g the pump won't come on until you try to start the car. You could try manually powering the fuel pump on (using a datalogger, fuel pump test connector, or shorting the signal and power pin on the rewired relay together). It should definitely be a noticeable...

It's the number on top of the injector that indicates that. His ends with 43, so 880cc.

From what I've seen, they're PTE 880cc injectors that are modified GM Rochester injectors.