I personally have not had a bad experience with a cheap header cracking but I have had a few rust and warp (Once this happend I replaced it). I have seen a few friends manifolds crack and have the turbo fall off with the collector. Switching from a cheap dnp style header to a nice thick wall...
Plain and simple and ill back up my statement if anyone would love to try me. Ebay manifolds are a waste of money. Yes some of them will out perform a cast manifold but in the end will crack rust and just fall apart. Ive used or seen just about every header out there. Only one I have ever...
A well designed, and well built Header will out flow, increase spool time and put out better numbers then a cast manifold would anyday. Its been tested in the past to pick up a few mph in the 1320 just off the manifold alone.Ill agree with a few of you when you say there is no need or even...
You say your boost is dropping from 20psi to 15psi? It doesn't really look that way from the dyno graph. Do you have a graph with Torque, that way it's easier to tell what the boost is really doing. That seems to be similiar power we had a customer making on a 57 trim, which according to...
we should get some type of meet going here soon, there is some nice weather out right now. i know there was a few dsmers who wanted to get something going this friday the 7.
The defi d gauges are alsome. worth the money for sure. my boost is dead on and has no delay like autometer. they are an individual gauge witch means you dont need the link unit to run them. as for price the only gauge that cost more then the rest is the boost over autometer everything else is...
i used a few pte turbos in the past and i will here shortly. i had a bolt on 60 trim with ams oil lines and had it for about 10k miles, i used the gt3255 and was very happy with the turbo, spool was great and it held 27psi till 7300 rpm. this was on a t/3 setup with a .63a/r.
ya im leaning towards that graphite pirl gray alot now, but its so hard to leave my white car i love the way it looks white but o well. it will look damn sexy either way. jim
ya give eric a call there he will let u know anything you need to know about it. its short route with rounded endtanks. eric uses it on his daily driven 600plus whp talon.AMS 1-847-709-0530
check out the ams fmic kit, they put out over 600 whp on them and they have gone 9's with the fmic. its also at a great price for the quality of the product you get.
hey, we could do something in the summer for sure. as for the job the low pay doesnt bother me at all because there are so many other things that come along with it that you guys dont even know about. right now i really dont need a job for money and working at ams is a great job even for what i...
was up, ill run you any day just let me know where and how much send to my email. of course when it gets nice out.ams bi***? thats funny but anyways i dont need ams help to be a 10 sec car i could build that on my own, maybe i dont drag race maybe i road race or maybe i dont want a 10 sec...
ok dude no one cares how much money you have, if you dont want the extra hp then dont buy it, go buy something that makes less power for what reason i dont know. do you even think about the things you so. smart people (unlike you) would say wow they made more hp with a better desinged manifold...
you will be very happy with what you get. every time ive gone in there i got parts at a great price and the 3 things ive had them do to my car i was very pleased. all you have to do is go in there talk to eric like a normal human being instead of some of the kids that tell him (not ask) to beat...
I went with wiseco 9:0.1 pistons on my stroker motor. reason for my choice is there ligther then ross pistons, ross cost 150 more, and wiseco has a good name many fast dsm and v8 buys use them. this lead me to trust there good.For rods i went with oliver rods just because i love the design...
yes get some cams. when you start to run more boost and your turbo drops off you will have something to fall back on. those cams will help u get that extra power you need to keep your car give you a solid pull.you should looking for hks 272's witch i strongly recommend, but there really hard...
i dont need to make a point to anyone.well if you looking for help on chooseing a fmic, i would go with something diffrent, think about it this way. why would you wanna go from stock smic to stock fmic off another car. if your on a budget then i would say go with the evo fmic or the jr...
ok for real dude what point are you trying to make, anyone looking to go fast wouldnt even think about that fmic. fmic ive tried are small greddy, big greddy, agp, ams, dvdtfab.as for turbos i also tried a pte bolt on 57trim witch sucked. was standard bearing and spool was just nasty.
ive used the evo 16g, 50 trim, 60 trim, and the new gt255 aka gt 50 trim.all of my cars usally where tuned right with no knock. with dsmlink it allowed me to adjust my timing for a safer tune. usally on 93 octane i would run 18-20 psi, on 100 i ran 24 and on 110 i ran 27 psi. i tired...
What?If your asking me about where i heard this from or what not, ive tried it. im not like every other dsmer on here who post stuff about shit they never even tried. i base my statements off things ive tried and moved on. jim
You should for sure look at a diffrent fmic.even your turbo choice, these days with all these new crazy turbos out you could go with a bolt on gt30r, 50 trim or 60 trim let alone a dozen other bolt on turbos that will work alot better then the evo 3 and cost about the same as a evo 16g...
my build is costing me $3,250.00 for my short block and this is what im gettingLine boring, decking, boring, honing of block and cleaning of block
full balanced
+ 20
2.4L crank
oliver rods
wiseco 9:0.1 pistons
clevite main and rod bearings
arp head studs
arp main studs
front case w/...
for a rebuild thats way to much, my motor isnt even costing that much and i have a 2.4L crank, oliver rods, wiseco pistons, and all the other goodies you need. id look at sbr site they have a rebuild motor for around 1500 if im not mistaking