It's ticking because of your body kit :DSeriously though, the lifters tick due to lack of lubrication. If you run an oil filter other then a Mitsu OEM filter, you might want to try a few oil changes with a mitsu filter.Mitsu filter has a check valve in it to help prevent the oil...
Bah, I still run the NGKBPR6ES (hell, we stock them where I work)....I've run as high as 25psi on these plugs without detionation with a 50/50 C16 Mix.Then again, my car is a freak.
You can either modify your line to fit the new turbo. I used a dremel on 2 of them (helping friends) and have never had a problem.Your other option is to get a 1g oil return line, which will bolt up to your oil pan.
Bah... I did a "cleaning" on my lifters when I did my headswap.After sitting "free" for about 1 week 75% of them were hard as #### to push in useing a paper clip.I went to a local hardware store, got a Brass Rod which fit in the lil hole, and then got some pliars to push the rod in as...
Best way to avoid fuel cut "easily" is to get bigger injectors and a fuel computer (AFC, etc...).I ran 20psi with a AFC and 660s w/o fuel cut for a long time before upgrading beyond the AFC.
I don't know if this thread was ment to be serious but either way I'm closing it.Twin Turbo's have been discussed several times on this board, please search if you have any questions.
Search the archives, this has been discussed before.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5986&highlight=nt%2A+blockThe oil squirters are different.It will start, if that's what matters, but I wouldn't expect it to push major HP without "complaining".Don't...
You'll be fine.I drove around with one of my fans unplugged once in 120+ degree temps (with a big fmic) to see if it made a huge difference. Car definately ran warmer, but never overheated.
I've seen 6 bolts and 7 bolts walk.....Hell, I've heard of Miata's walking.Crankwalk is not something limited to mitsubishi motors, they just seem to be a little bit more prone to failure.
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I'd bring this up....One thing that you need to remember about the ECU for 2gs and 1gs (maps specifically)... is that the 2g Knock Sensor has a differnt sensativity vs. the 1g knock sensor.What happened with one guy who put a 2g AEM into his...
Mike... you know I have a 57trim/stage 3 in a .48 Housing... and you know it pushed me to a 12.09 at 119 on 24psi with a stock 2g motor/stock intake manifold (well, I have webcams...).......I think that says a LOT about that turbo, personally.... I don't plan on going any bigger then what...
Get an electric die grinder... they are about $50 and worth it.AIR Die grinders use a TON of air, I know I had problems with keeping a steady RPM on my die grinder with a 33gallon/150 PSI/5HP Air Compressor......One thing though, when porting aluminum.. make sure that your bit is well...
Or you could do a 1g CAS swap :) Just be ready for some misfire codes (get a dsmlink and don't worry about it... then you can dis-able the check for misfires)
Don't forget to clean your lifters! It's a pain in the ass.. but it works.I went to ace hardware and bought a brass "rod" that was small enough to fit inside the pin hole at the top of the lifter... you push down hard enough and you'll feel a "valve" colapse in the lifter... allowing you to...
The AEM EMS does the same... although it does not fit in the factory ECU case... and it's a little cheeper.One thing I do like about the AEM though, is that it has a serial port on the side, no more OBD2 Cables getting in the way of the gas pedal..... the Autronic uses a 3.5MM head-phone...
Picked up an AEM EMS... installed everything, and the car does not start - No Fuel, No SparkTried it in another 95 GSX (it has the stock cam/crank sensors) and it starts fine. Throw it back in my car (1g CAS) and the car does not start.Tried .89 and .94.... the base maps, and a few...
For the record, we ended up ordering a 1g 2.0 NT water pipe, and welding a fitting on it for the water/oil cooler....Head is on, driving the car around everything appears to be fine...... finally some good news.
I'm shutting this down before it gets out of hand.If your serious about wanting a car with that much power, call Buschur Racing and tell them what you have in mind.I'm sure there are other shops that could build a mid 10sec car also.....As a mater of fact though, I think bushur...
BOV had nothing to do with the tick stopping, it's physically impossibleOn a side note, you don't want to set the bov to full hard, you'll expereince compressor surge.... which can kill your turbo.
Shift harder/faster..... "drive it like you stole it".. and be prepared to break stuff.I went from 13.2 at 107 to 12.7 at 107 just by forgetting to take my foot off the gas when I was shifting..... (rev limiter is your friend).....I know wheel spin can also be a large part of it...
I...
DO NOT PRY THEM OFFIf you have a small rubber hammer, you can LIGHTLY tap them back and forth (up and down, not left to right) after removing the bolts.but do NOT pry them... unless you want to purchase a new head.Don't loose or break them either.... that's very bad, as they cannot...
Yes, leaving the key in the ACC position for 1 hour (sometimes a tadd longer) will reset it to code -- when you are attempting this though, be sure to turn the radio "on" so that "off" is displayed in the LCD
Alright... that'll definately be my backup plan....Right now I'll have an NT water pipe tomarrow... having a shop weld in a "bung" for the water return from the oil cooler.
Well... I found a good deal on the oil cooler housing to convert it......what kind of lines did you use from the oil filter housing to the oil cooler? where/what kind of cooler did you use?
Problem with doing that is $$$$....I'd have to spend $90 to buy the oil housing that is air/oil cool based, add on a oil cooler and lines... and your up to $300 almost instantly.I don't have $300 sitting around right now..... figures I have this problem after the AEM/AGX's/1g Head are...
This turbo is oil cooled only..... the water line on the block has been plugged for a year now :)I don't need the water fitting on the pipe..... but I can't find a 1g pipe that has the oil cooler return line nipples on it that isnt for a turbo 4g63... all the NT's seem to be lacking an oil...
Once again the car screws me over....Blew my head gasket a month ago (car would overheat if I hit boost... pushing coolant). So I decided it was a good time to do a 1g Headswap.For the record I have a T3/To4E Turbo, SFP Manfi, and short route IC Pipes.Here's the problem:
I knew I'd...