http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157949&highlight=carrier+bearing Go there and scroll to the last post they give the part numbers there.

I found one in Grandville, MI it looks like its about 1 hour 50 min. away or so. Here is a link to the website. http://www.ayaracing.com/index.html Good luck. :thumb:

That pretty much covers it but here is a link with some good pointers also. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=168768

Ok sorry my bad i thought you were talking about the rear defrost switch. Thanks again.

None of the stuff has been changed or tampered with at all. The AC and the rear defrost were not on at the time the fuses were blown. This morning again it worked fine on setting 1 and 2 and they both worked normal slow on 1 a little faster on 2. Also just to try it out i used the rear defrost...

Will do thanks again i will post back after the test.

Yes i have the 10A fuse in the right spot. At first i did say that it worked in the 1,2, and 4 position. Here is what happens if i leave it in the 1 or 2 position it works just fine and hasnt yet blown the 10A fuse. When i mess around with the control to move it to 3 the blower stops blowing...

Thanks luv2rallye the only other thing i have to add i guess is that since this yesterday now the blower will work and not blow the fuse if i use it at 1 or 2. It seems to just blow the fuse if i go over the 1 or 2 position. So do you think that it has to be the switch then?

So you say resistor pack then Defiant?

Its is blowing the 10A fuse.

Thanks for the reply thats kinda what im thinking also since its like 10 years old and just all of a sudden it starts blown fuses. It picked the perfect time to go out yesterday morning it was 7 below zero when this happend. Well any other thougths on this would be great before i go and buy a...

Ok here is the problem. My blower for the heat/ac stopped working the other day. Checked the fuses and the heater relay fuse was blown. Replaced the fuse twice same thing happend blown fuse. It would work for a little bit and then just blow. When it would work i could get the blower for the...

I found a list of AWD dyno's around the country. I dont know how current everything is on it but it seems to be pretty good as it has links to most shops websites. http://www.stealth316.com/2-awddynos.htm

Here is a link to one. http://www.grdperformance.com/ its 196 miles to the east of Iowa City just before Chicago in Naperville. Mapquest says about 3 hours one way. Thats the closes one i have came up with so far.

Yea it sucks. LOL people are allready down to like 41 seconds. I have a hard time getting it under 3 min.

Hope this isnt a repost but here goes anyway. Click on thrill ride challenge. http://www.mitsubishicars.com/06eclipse/ Fastest times win prizes i guess. Check it out post some times.

Go here. https://www.mitsubishiparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html Enter your info 93 Mitsubishi eclipse. Then click on engine. Then click on crankshaft & bearings. Then vibration damper. Then match up the date your car was made and the price will be either 86$ or 91$ depending on if your a 6 bolt...

Yes your gauge is broke. Well atleast its out of calibration. It should sit at zero PSi when the car is off. So that is going to be why your boost readings are high. I know i got a boost gauge that read 7psi when i got it and i sent it back. But i dought you can do that since you installed it.

Well it would help if you let us know what kind of gauge and how much you want to spend on them. I have Defi gauges and the boost comes in Psi or Kpa. But they are spendy. Here is a link to them...

Here is two of them. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53339&highlight=mileage http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71032&highlight=mileage

I have one from here. http://www.gaugepods.com/mitsubishi.html And it looks great matches the interior perfect. Thats what i would sugest getting. But wait and see what others who have the autometer say about the color.

Yea i had the same problem the door switches get rusty inside the little boot and the contact points go bad. You can try and take them off and clean it that will work sometimes. I just ordered new ones and that fixed it.

You could order from here http://www.ngk.com/results_cross.asp?pid=BPR6ES

Like it was said before the normal temp is pretty much dead center on the temp gauge so yes if you above that you are running hot.

YES you should bleed it first and see if that takes care of it. If not it could be your master or slave clutch cylinder. But try bleeding the system first. Then report back.

When that happend to me my it was my master cylinder. Once it was replaced it was back to normal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167562 http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162233 Take a look at those two threds that are pretty recent.

What your going to want to do is buy a system or have one custom made at a exahust shop wich will be cheaper. You will want to get a bigger downpipe 2 1/2 or 3 and then a cat back system to match either 2 1/2 or 3 inches. Basicly your going to replace all of the exhaust pipes with bigger ones...

Why didnt you just buy a bigger aftermarket exhausy system with a test pipe that would give you the best results. But since you didnt maybe the stocker you got was really cheap or something but i suppose the high flow cat will help a little but not enough for you to notice.

You can disable the clutch saftey switch so you dont have to press the clutch to start your car. Here is a link on that. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=157435&highlight=clutch+switch Oh and fill out your vehicle profile.

Ummmm the copper crush washers are for the waterlines not the oil lines. There will be two on each water banjo bolt one on each side of it. So unless that T28 you got came with the water lines attached you will need 4 new washers. Some will reuse the old ones which you can if you want but they...

As far as measuring it are you installing the turbo from the top of the car or are you going under it and taking off the downpipe and O2 sensor housing. I think he was refering to if you take the manifold off and install it from the top. Oh yea and make sure to get four new copper crush washers...

Im pulling about -19 or -20 hg at idle. Here is another thred on this subject. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115040&highlight=vacum

The GS rotors are the same as the GST rotors but the GSX/TSi AWD use a bigger settup. As far as the calipers same thing goes the GST will fit you GS but the GSX/TSi AWD are 2 piston calipers and are not the same.

It is not a good idea to just find the biggest turbo that will fit and slap it on your bone stock GST. You really need to build up your car with supporting mods first then start looking for a bigger turbo. Go take a look at the tunning guide and go from there.

Get the NGK BPR6ES since you are still pretty much stock.

Oh yea and make sure to get some PB Blaster and spray down the manifold to turbo bolts/stud and turbo to 02 bolt/stud atleast a day before you try and remove the old turbo.

Get 4 copper crush washers http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=GSCW Two oil return gasket http://linux.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=GSOD One...

Mine is also on the radiator fan.

Sounds like he just gave you a warning since you said he let you go. So if thats the case what do you want to fight?

Should be the same thing as pictured. :thumb:

Go here http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm scroll down the page untill you get to the clutch adjustment part and look under the 2G part. Its pretty easy. Good luck.

Go here http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm scroll down the page and find clutch adjustment for a 1G you can either raise it or lower it.

He said why are you building the engine twice because you said " I bough a 6 bolt long block and i am doing a stock rebuild with Top Line parts to get it running and then im going to build up with forged internals."

Here is the link to the website http://www.live-shot.com/

Yea i had the same problem with my Defi boost gauge read a little over 5psi when i got it. But got it replaced for free and i love the gauges.

If you scroll down on this page to clutch & flywheel adjustment it has insturctions with some pic's. For a 1G and a 2G. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

Im in the Twin Cities Metro Area!!!!

I agree with c5chris its not that loud at idle or crusing speeds. At WOT yes it can get loud but even then its not really that bad. Sounds great on our cars i think. Its not the same as that WRX clip thats for sure.

That might have been the best 3 min and 49 seconds ive spent at work!!!!!!! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: