I would figure out what I was going to build first. Displacement, compression and countless outher details will factor on how your car will respond with a certain spec turbo. When you start the engine build, I would call FP, tell them what you are working with and your expectations.
I always have ran squirters and never experienced any oil pressure problems. Even other manufactuers like GM and other have moved to putting squirters in their factory engines. The Generation V SBCs are all going to have squirters N/A and boosted.
My XDm collection. 4.5" 9mm(SS slide), 40SW(OD grip) and 45ACP. The 3.8" compacts are 9mm and 40SW, both now have the Pearce grip on all the compact mags. They make a huge difference in gripping the gun and control.I have more toys I'll post later ;)
The pistons are junk. The head could be repaired, but for the cost you can most likely get a new core. The cylinder walls also have to be inspected for damage.
What kind of boat ar you interested in? My dad has an 18ft jet boat with a 454 BB chevy and dual carbs. The jet drive is fairly new and has been resealed. Boat is ready to go. I can send you some pics of it if you are interested.
I have to agree with many of the above posts.
You need a fat check book to keep the car running with only 700HP. Sometimes its the stupidest stuff that breaks, but it seems to happen regularly.A weekend car or limited driving would be the most you could hope for. That kind of power as a...
With E85 you can run more timing with higher compression. Alcohol burns cooler and the lack of heat allows higher cylinder pressures without pre-detonation. I'd feel comfortable running it with 9-9.5:1 static compression.In my area E85 is very hard to come by at the pump. The only place I...
It depends on what size engine you plan on running, the turbo you use, its efficiency range and boost level.The bottom line is the volume of air and fuel crammed into the engine makes the power. You don't need higher compression if you run high boost. The boost creates whats called dynamic...
I think the weight of 6mm of deck is less than the full skirted bottom end it appears to be designed with. The longer bottom half also poses an issue for oil pan clearance.Personally I would rather see a reproduction cast iron 6 bolt block with optional deck heights and a standard, square...
I like the concept, but the cost and options available are what concerns me.
If provisions for 1G motor mounts are machined into the block and the bell housing has different trans patterns, you should be able to use it for any app provided the deck oil drain ports are the same as a 95 up 4G64...
"Here goes $600"...... more like $1600-2K to replace the flywheel and clutch. I am normally never surprised by stupidity, but this one got me. I can't believe between the difference in smells, feel and the fact the speedo would not have been moving that he did not realize something else was...
Thats funny ever since I have had my CCW, I have had a lot less trouble. I just hand them my permit with my license, they tend to get antsy if you don't present that information right at the beginning. The stupid part is they know you are a CCW holder when they run your plates on the computer...
The secret I found is staying away from big shiny mufflers.
I have a full 3" exhaust on my GSX with a Borla XR1 muffler. It is somewhat loud, but the muffler and tail pipe are painted black and it has never been noticed after being pulled over several times.It is also based on the area and...
I use a factory DSM PCV valve. Just make sure you put it in the right way. I shove the threaded side all the way in the hose and zip tie it(silicone hoses are easier to do this with than the standard fuel grade hoses). The pressure side coming from the intake I use a hose clamp to keep it...
I have used PCV valves for a check valves for years. It works very nice. I originally started doing using them to make it easier to hold my A/T car while brake boosting. Saving the saving the brake booster was secondary.
I don't have not used the G3 gauge, but have experience with many Innovative products.Your first issue could be the positioning of the O2 sensor itself. I found having the sensor much more that 3 ft from the exit of the turbo to cause fluctuation. I place mine within 12" of the turbo outlet...
The copper crush washers are for the banjo bolts. There should be a copper washer between the head of the bolt and the banjo and the banjo and component it is being attached to.The braided SS oil drain kits with aluminum flanges do not need crush washers. I put teflon tape on the AN...
The SCE Titans are not reusable. The SCE standard coppers are reusable with a fresh coat of Permatex Copper Coat. If you did not retorque after your initial warm-up that is most likely the source of your problem. I retorque after the initial warm up and the after the first couple of high...
I don't know of any other 2 liters that will fit an EVO 8/9 besides those specified for the EVOs. The only cheap alternative is a 2000+ G code 2.4 liter.
A 6 bolt flex plate will mate to a 2G converter. I was sent a 2G converter by mistake for my car and it bolted up fine. I discovered it because the 2G converter is wider that the 1G and would not seat into the 1G bellhousing properly.
I used 1 3/4" Schedule 10 304L SS for my header, bought from McMaster-Carr. They have online ordering and ship to residential areas.
Burns does not sell anything thicker than 14 gauge which is too thin for a turbo header without a ridiculous amount of support.
The connector on the end of the wire or the wire itself going to the sending unit may be damaged. I have had this problem on many 1Gs. The insulation will start to fall off and it can ground out on about anything it touches.It is also a possibly the sending unit can be going bad or crudded...
I have owned several 1G turbo DSMs.I had a FWD TSi mostly stock that seen as high as 33 MPG straight highway and 24 around town.I never had an AWD car get over 27 highway/ 22 city, mildly modified <350 HP and no A/T car get better than 23 MPG highway/ 18 city regardless of modification.My...
I see it as being safer than hooking to an exhaust manifold stud and an intake bolt.There would have to be something incredibly wrong for you to pull the threads out of the block or snap a head bolt just lifting the engine. In fact I would pull it with the trans attached as well using that...
I use factory head bolts through the hoisting chain. You need a decent size chain for the bolts to squeeze through a link.I have reused several blocks after using this method. I find it easier than pulling the engine with the head on.
Doesn't look bad for a home job.Although with current technology I think the best method is to get the head CNC ported and only do hand blending to balance the ports.A 1G head unported is very efficient and I see no need to port it unless you plan on going BIG(600 WHP+)
I have no problems with my Level 10 Billet converter, 4500 RPM stall.
I have built as much as 30 psi with a 60-1 and T3 .82 a/r hotside on the line. It doesn't do much good when you sheer the rear axles off either.If you can leave with 22 psi+ there shouldn't be any issues unless it is due...
I ran a Cometic on an O-ringed block/receiver grooved head with no problems.I do not like the Mitsu 4 layer head gaskets. I had nothing but problems with them.I run SCE Titans now. I ran straight SCE coppers and copper spray for a few years until the neater, less messy Titan came out. I...
I retorque my studs after one heat cycle (idling, light throttle).
Allow the motor to completely cool before retorquing.
I individually loosen each nut a 1/4 turn past being free and retorque to 85 ft/lbs moving to the next in the proper sequence.After the intial retorque, I generally do...
The weight difference isn't great enough to justify the smaller diameter rim. The taller tire itself will weigh more and offset the weight savings of the 1" shorter rims.
For the record 255/50 16s will fit on a 1G just fine if your rim is backspaced properly(40-42mm).I use 1/2" spacers on the rear and none in the front. Pics of the tires/wheels on the car are in my gallery on this site.
I run a single flex plate and tack weld the bolts.
I replace the flex plate and bolts every time I pull the trans or motor.
I never had a problem with the flex plate itself breaking, but I have ripped the threads out of the torque converter a few times.My question is when someone is going to...
I have know about them for 2 years or so.
Their velocity stacks are very nice.
However, it is disappointing that they don't make extruded oval tubing large enough to match our cylinder head ports.
I use lacquer thinner and a razor blade. Sometimes on a tough spot I will use 1000 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small flat surface.After I have removed all the gunk, I wipe the surfaces down with brake cleaner and a fresh rag to avoid any oil contamination on my new gasket/sealant...
I have ran JE, Ross and Venolia pistons.
I have encountered no problems with any.
However, Jackson has a nice variety of custom Venolias you can choose from.If you are not looking to get into big science on your motor any of the three should do fine as long as the machine work is done...
If you run into a problem with the converter you can crankwalk an engine. I broke 2 converter bolts, stretched a flexplate that led to my 6 bolt tearing up the thrust bearing. The break happened due to the converter bolts backing out even with Locktite. I now tack weld my converter bolts an...
The 14b has a 6cm turbine housing and the 16G a 7cm.
If anything it will slightly slow your spool and yield better top end flow.I wouldn't recommend unhooking the wastegate pressure signal. A manual boost controller can be bought for a reasonable price. Also I would not recommend running...
Stock CR for a 1G 6 bolt is 7.8:1.The .002-.003 will impact the CR slightly, but not enought that I would be worried.
Ten thousands(.010) is only around 1.5 CCs a cylinder for our bore size.
You do not want your engine coolant interacting with your IC coolant. Your IC coolant should be under 100* if you want it to do you any good. Your engine coolant is normally 195-210*.
I use a 1G heater core for an IC radiator. It works great in the winter, but has it is undersized to be very efficent in outside temps above 65-70* F. It does keep the ice from melting as fast though, which was its original intent.
I have ran mine form the same source as the BOV for years on many cars with no problems, even with my current setup running two BOVs. I encountered problems sourcing the compressor housing.
I use Hallman MBCs, second to none IMO.
I have seen turbocharged carburetor setups where air passes through the carb first and fuel goes through the inlet of the tubo and throughout the whole system. I don't think it is very safe, but I witnessed a 70's AMC run 8's(1/4) with a setup like that.If you are referring to putting extra...
I am not knocking quality wheels, but you can get some nice Enkeis for $225 a piece.
I see Volks and Works a little overpriced just due to their name and home location of their manufacturer(Japan). Would I like a set, yes, but I feel there are better mods I can spend that kind of money on.
I have ran 17" Flicks for 3 years with no problems.
They are about 18lbs each.
My BFG darg radials are 23lbs each.
Combined is 41lbs.
I would say the extra money would be worth it if you were hardcore racing in heavy competition. For fun on the street and occasional runs at the track like...