Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to...

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to...

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to...

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to...

Think it could be something like a gummed up or dirty throttle body? Cause in a cold start the car will keep the revs higher, and the throttle body open during initial idle, but when its warm then car will allow the throttle body to close more to keep revs low. WIth a dirty/clogged throttle...

Actually, I have no idea, I'm trying to help out a friend as he is interested. I think though its basically just the panels and seats and stuff, dunno if its the whole dash or anything. I'll have to find out.

Anyone know of a shop in the Southwestern Pennsylvania area that can handle custom interiors?

I know this is a DSM site, but some things are universal. My wife's 90 Celica starts and runs great, unless the engine is warmed up. Once it is warmed up the car doesn't want to start. It will just crank. In the odd times it does turn over it will immediately die. Any ideas for me to look...

I can relate to a lot more of those than I'd like to admit to. hehe

Oh dear god I can't take it.....how did you NOT get any? I am seriously dumbfounded here. Also, your boys should have frickin left if there was even a HINT of some action. She was more than hinting, she was beating your head in with the fvckme sledgehammer.

Hmmmm, I have to agree with what you are saying, on further thought, it does almost make the fuel linear throughout the RPM band. *shrug* Wasn't a bad thought though eh?

I know there's not a lot of feedback on this unit, and I haven't seen anything on the mysterious Response button no one can figure out, but I think I've made some headway today. At first I couldn't figure out what the hell HKS was talking about with this button. I think I figured out at least...

My car kinda pulls to the left. When the steering wheel is straight, the car drives straight, but if I let go of it, it will turn left. I just had my car realigned, and the steering rack tightened, but my car sometimes pulls right. Its wierd, but when my wheels are in the grooves on the road...

Are 3 DSM stock sidemounts welded together as good as an aftermarket single piece core? Assuming both are about the same size.

The AFR has 11 adjustable points, in 50rpm increments. The only thing I don't like about the AFR that the AFC has is the high-lo throttle settings. But I like how the AFR has an internal computer that adjusts after it learns your car,(don't know if the AFC does this?) plus the EIDS function...

Hmmm I went back over the diagrams I have for the 1g ECU pinouts, and I'm almost sure I mistook the idle switch wire, or the barometric pressure wire for the airflow sensor wire...My car is outside in ungodly 10degree weather or I'd go check. Here's the 1gECU diagram I used from vfaq.com for...

Yeah, it idles and runs great for any other type of airflow input it has....I'm not sure about the AFC, but the AFR has 4 different types of airflow input, 1)karmen 2)5v-0v 3) 0v-5v 4)pressure. I have no idea about 2 and 3, but 4 seems to be a MAP sensor? But when I put it on the correct...

I double checked the bastedges. Any idea which one could be wrong? Its not the power or ground, not the mas, not RPM...that reads correct. could be throttle position, but the response and EIDS come on when I mash the accelerator and let off respectively. I'm pretty sure they're all right.

Anyone familiar with the HKS S-AFR? Its the same type of piggyback fuel computer as the Apex AFC.Anyway, the problem i have is when I have it in 4cylinder, Karmen Vortex mode (which is our cars right?) I get a rough idle, it misses erratically. It also misses and stumbles erratically all...

Finally got the b@stard all set up. I have the directions for using the thing, but not totally sure how much things will affect my car. I understand every car is different, but anyone who has used an HKS S-AFR mind sharing their experiences?

I made most of the same assumptions LarryD. I am familiar with the usual black smoke from turbo cars and our DSMs in particular, but my car spews black smoke the whole time I am on it. Only at WOT though. I haven't had a chance to do another logging run yet, probably tomorrow if it doesn't...

I think I'll turn down the boost to 15psi and take another run to see how that affects it.

Ok, I'm really still learning how to read and interepret my datalogger readings. I just bought an AFR because under full throttle I would spew out black smoke. I figured I was running pretty rich. The car is currently running at 17psi with stock injectors and 14b. I had logged my car a few...

Thanks a lot guys...soon as I get some time (and open road) I'll get some logs up.90GSX my O2s did exactly as you said. I was unaware the oscillating was normal while idling, I thought that was really wierd.

I just got the datalogger. Problem is, I don't know how all the readings should look like. For instance, should my O2 volts go from 0 to .95 in a wave pattern at idle? or is my O2 senser shot? Anyone with the know-how mind looking at my readings and letting me know what is up?

When your turbo wastegate can't bleed off enough exhaust gasses from hitting the turbo, causing it to spin faster and faster, producing more boost, even though the wastegate is all the way open. Hence, your boost creeps up w/no way to stop it unless you let off the throttle.

Dear lord you guys pay out the nose. I pay 45 bux a month for 2 cars. 1990 GSX and 1990 Toyota Celica. Of course I live in Pennsylvania not CA. I'm also 25 so that probably makes a big difference.

As much as I love DSMs, I wouldn't have gone near them if they didn't have awd. I think that you would be better off buying awd, the advantages outweigh the disadvantages. I've never heard of anyone who had awd that wished he had fwd.

The two shorter bolts go on under the timing belt on the oil pan. I have a groove in my timing belt and it was suggested that the two shorter bolts weren't put on in the right place. Now I gotta fiddle around until I can find the two shorter bolts which are on somewhere else on the oil pan.

Damn nice car there Eclipse4x4

I pulled off the bolts on the belt side of the oil pan and none of them looked as if they were touching the belt. (they still had the seal gunk on them and weren't shiny as if from rubbing) I pulled two bolts from other parts of the pan and they were all the same size. they all looked pretty...

Yeah I'll do that today. I've never pulled any oil pan bolts before, am I going to get oil in my face taking off two of them? The groove is on the engine side, about a millimeter in and then a 1/4 inch wide groove that is about 1/8" deep. Either way, I gotta replace the belt, at least now I...

i honestly wouldn't know the answer to either of those two questions, as I just bought the car a few weeks ago. The Bbelt plate being on backwards seems to me the most likely answer as whatever is grooving the belt is doing it hella slow, as if it were softer than metal. Thanks for the answers...

wow, quick replies. Yeah, with all the power that can be gotten out of the 4 cylinders, the only thing that I don't like is the turbo lag. 2 turbos would reduce this lag to almost nothing? Now, if there are 2 turbos, would they have to be smaller than say even the T25? Would it still be one...

I know there are only 4 cylinders. but is it possible (no matter the cost) to twin turbo a dsm? Maybe really really tiny turbos? Anyone ever tried it? If it can't be done, can someone tell me why?

Well, after putting some white-out on the tbelt where the groove is, after about 200 miles it gets worn away meaning whatever put that groove into the belt is still touching it. It took about 12k miles to get a groove worn about 1/8th of an inch deep. The steel threads are "just" starting to...

Sorry, maybe hate was too strong of a word. :o I meant to say is I'd rather have something to open up my intake more, i.e. get rid of the 1g MAS altogether. I know I can switch to a 2g MAS but if there is another option like the VPC out there I'd like to know about it is all.

Now, I have a 1g mas and I absolutely hate it. I would like a VPC or something like it. I think I read in another thread that there are cheaper alternatives to the VPC that work the same way. I have a daily driver and not a track car. Anyone know of any cheaper alternatives where I can chuck...

I don't have a coupla hundred bucks laying around at the moment so I figure on rigging something up to send the air back to the intake. My car has the TurboXS RFL so I'll have to figure something out, because the outlet on that is kind of trumpet shaped. Any idea how hard the air is going to...

Can you get black smoke on startup if your plugs are fouled and you need to crank it a few to get the car to start...say, as if you were using a venting BOV w/o a vpc (I know I know give me a break I just bought the car and havn't changed it yet)

You know, my wife and her friends call it "girls light" cause thats all that would drink that water in college.

I don't know if it goes THAT far. Not like they go out of their way to damage stuff, but you're right in the fact that "fragile" makes not one bit of difference. If a box is light enough to be thrown, it will be thrown. Pack stuff WELL is all I can say.Another thing I regret is selling...

:laugh: Don't ask me why that's funny. It just is.

My brother works in UPS. You don't even want to know how they really handle stuff there. Anyway, I really regret trying to do a Tbelt change on the 95 with someone who only did 1g timing belt changes. Mistimed crank = valve pushed through the head. Yippee!

Well, I figured out the problem. Those plastic jobs that HKS gives you with the timer are junk. Either that, or you have to use them right. :) They weren't actually tapping the wire. So I took them off and tapped into the wire the old fashion way, cut and splice. Now the timer works perfect.

HKS type 1 TT, I spliced all the wires right, but I can't get the stupid thing to read rpms or speed. I'm gonna tear open my dash again when I get home to make sure I tapped the right wires. The first wire is the fourth one on the bottom from the right, the other wire is the seventh. Am I...

I havn't had anything out of the ordinary for my car. Idles fine, shifts "feel" no different, no stalling, no dying out....hmmm maybe my car is retarded?

Yes my bov vents to the atmosphere, but I recently bought this car and that is what the previous owner had on it. It idles great. I know I'm running rich between shifts because I dont' have a VPC. Yes I would like to recirc the air back to the intake but I just dont have the cash just yet...