Gurus - I've got an 92 TSi AWD that I recently had to replace a tire on. All other tires are about 20% worn. Will the difference in tire diameters (due to wear; tire brand & size for the new tire is the same) cause any harm to my transfer case/AWD system?
I know wheel/tire size differences are...
I'm not sure how many of you guys know this, but you can reset your ECU without screwing with the negative battery terminal. Just pull the 10 amp fuse in the lower right corner of your fuse box (driver's side footwell) for about 15 (edit) SECONDS (edit) or so. It also interrupts power to your...
I agree with the others. It's really not cost effective to rebuild yours. It's a bit more complicated than just swapping out the seals and bushings (the rebuilt turbo neeeds to be balanced).
I'm running a Evo III 16g GT from Turbochargers.com, and I'm very pleased with it. They're about $460...
How many miles on your spark plug wires?
Sporatic "missing" can be an indication of bad spark plug wires. Look for dark spots on the wires.Also..
Check your base timing
Do a boost leak check
Novablue -
A Pocketlogger ($125 for the software & cable and about $30 for a cheap PDA) is the best investment you can make if you plan on doing your own troubleshooting, tuning, and wrenching on your own car.
How did you dial in your SAFC without knowing what your fuel trims were doing?Go...
When I had a pre-02 sensor exhaust leak, all 3 of my fuel trims were maxed lean while my exhaust smelled pig rich. As soon as I fixed the leak, my trims went back to normal.
If you've been running very rich for a while, carbon deposits can cause the knocking you've described. I'd give the...
The first things I'd do is:1. Look at is your base timing - should be 5 deg
2. Do a boost leak check
3. Verify your fuel pressure (at atmosphere & at boost)
3. Check for exhaust leaks (if your car seems to be running rich but logging lean)
Boomer -
Follow Quasimondo's advice and do it yourself w/ a buddy (I did mine by myself in 2 days without a transmission jack adapter, but YMMV).
You DO NOT need to pull the engine - that's way too much work. Just make sure you have:
a decent a shop manual
the vfaq printed out & on hand
a...
There's no harm at all in driving it.Did you do the compression check w/ the engine at operating temperature? Doing a compression check along with a leakdown test (www.vfaq.com under 'engine') with the engine hot will let you know if if your piston rings/cylinder walls are worn or possibly...
Thanks for the replies.
I've tried using high temp silicone (Permatex Orange), but the high heat in this area just turns it to dust.
Nicknorth - where did you get the 3-layer gasket? I'm running a 4 or 5 layer copper gasket on my head-to-exhaust manifold & it seals like a champ after numerous...
About a year ago I found a leak between my exhaust manifold & turbine housing flanges while running MCCC through my engine. I've tried everything I can think of to fix it, but it's been kicking my ass! Sometimes it seals for awhile, but then it starts leaking again.
I've replaced the gasket 3...
Dustin -
You may try heating up the area around the seized stud w/ a torch. Between PB Blast & a small propane torch, I've been able to get some pretty nasty bolts out. Be careful with those manifold studs - the head is aluminum & will strip out if you get too medieval on it.Before...
Check your timing.
Do a boost leak check.
Look at your plugs - Is the gap correct? Are they fouled or covered w/ soot? Are the tops of your pistons black & grainy w/ carbon deposits?
Does the knock sensor have goo coming out of it?
I put in Evo VIII 560's, and it definitely richened up my trims.If your trims are in the 80's you need to take some more fuel away.
What do your spark plugs look like? Are they all uniform?You may want to have the injectors checked to see if they're all working correctly. Check the...
Since it seems to be dependent upon the MAS being plugged in, I would suspect that your fuel mixture is way off. But I don't see how it would keep you from revving past 3K. Odd.It's worth the effort to check your timing. I would pull off the front cover and visually check that the crank &...
Be warned - Seafoam and MCCC makes gobs of smoke out your exhaust, If your neighbors are as persnickety as mine, you may want to find a empty lot or stretch of road to do it on.
Do a search for "Terry's idle surge", "MCCC", or "Seafoam" for directions on how to use this stuff.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, get a Pocketlogger. It will allow you to see what your engine is really doing.
http://www.pocketlogger.com/
IMHO it's the best $125 you can spend on your DSM.
I've got a 2.5" RNR O2 Eliminator turbo-back w/ a high-flow cat that's very low & deep. I recently swapped out the muffler w/ a Magnaflow & it is still very low & deep (and just a bit too loud for my taste - but I'm almost 40 yrs old. :pReviews of RNR's customer service have been mixed, though.
Where did the soot come from on your 02 sensor?
I'd do an exhaust leak check by running some Seafoam or Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through your engine. Any exhaust leaks should reveal themselves by smoke coming out of 'em.
If your plugs & 02 sensor are covered with soot, you've probably...
I would suggest that you check your base timing also. Your CAS or mechanical timing may be have slipped (causing part-throttle knock).
If you plan on wrenching on your car, get a Haynes or other shop manual. Besides a Pocketlogger, it's the smartest $ you can spend on your DSM!
If you don't want to screw around w/ the extra fittings & tubing (greater potential for leaks), you can go w/ this one - http://www.importevolution.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_45&products_id=1433 .
I've got the 1G model & have been very pleased with it. It's easier to install & cheaper than...
No SAFC, just the chip. Fuel press is 42 psi w/ 0 vacuum. This same setup ran just great until about 4 months ago.
The oscillation in the 02 trim should indicate a leak somewhere.
I'm puzzled - I assumed that I would find a pretty substantial exhaust leak, but I haven't. Maybe I'll try the...
I'm having a heck of a time tracking down why my fuel trims are all maxed @ 139 while the car seems to be running rich. My exhaust smells pretty rich (when the engine is warmed up), my exhaust pipe is carboned up, and I get a burble when I decelerate and an occasional pop out the exhaust. My...
I think you're on the right track looking at the turn signal switch. The contacts for the turn signals inside the switch may be toast.
You might try going to the library to get an electrical schematic if your manual doesn't have one of that part of the circuit. There may be a dedicated relay...
Steve makes a very valid point. I'd steer clear of this deal if I were you. Buying a car in this condition is a bad idea. You're inheriting someone else's problem child. It's probably been thrashed by previous owners. A non-running car like this suggests previous owners who were either too lazy...
An exhaust leak like you described will cause the car to run rich because air gets sucked in through the leak and mixes with the exhaust gasses. Your O2 sensor reads a high oxygen content in the exhaust gasses (lean condition) and triggers your injectors to dump more fuel.
Once you fix the leak...
Check for exhaust leaks by running some MCCC (Mopar Combustion Chamber Conditioner) or Seafoam through your engine (use the Search function on this site, see the vfaq.com or Google if you're unsure how to do this.)
Seafoam or MCCC will show where your exhaust leak is by smoke coming out of it...
I got the Whiteline kit for about $50. Works very well, and is a snap to install.
I highly recommend it! :thumb:http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/pro...&cat=99&page=1
What do your fuel trims look like?
Running too lean or too rich?
Have you done a boost leak check?
Have you cleaned your combustion chambers w/ MCCC in the past 6 months?
What's your base timing set at?By doing these tests/procedures, you should find the answer to your knocking problem...
It was brought to my attention that JB Weld is not impervious to gasoline. Your fix may be iffy.
I'd look at replacing the entire fuel line w/ one from a junkyard. Vice grips work pretty well for getting the fitting loose. Just remember to use 2 wrenches to ensure you don't twist the new line...
Sorry guys, but I've just got to add, "Get a Haynes shop manual for your car. It's the best $13 you will spend if you plan on wrenching on your DSM.""Give a man a fish - feed him for a day; teach him how to fish - he'll eat forever. :p
The Aeromotive will cost you over $200 as you have to run hoses from the AFPR to your fuel rail. I've got a bolt on FTS AFPR & I love it! It's much easier & cheaper:thumb:
With a 255, you definitely need an AFPR. I'm only running a 190 and I had to get one (fuel press was 41 psi w/ 550's).
You can do a fuel pressure test, but I'm sure it's too high.
I got a Full Thottle Speed AFPR that bolts on to the end of the fuel rail for $155 from www.importevolution.com...
Gary -
The logger is just a diagostic tool. I would suggest that you log some passes as the car is now, then log again a few days after any mods. The logger will tell you (via low fuel trims) when you're maxing out the 450's. Get on the TMO and Pocketlogger web sites for a bunch of info on...
If you've got a Haynes shop manual for the car (if not, get one - it's the best $13 you'll spend if you plan on wrenching on the car yourself) you can use a multimeter to test the ISC coils to make sure all have continuity. An ISC with burned out coils can cause this as well as a FIAV.
You may...