The monitors are not set by miles but rather by driving conditions. Here's what the FSM says on setting the monitor codes. Black box ECU is different.Also, here's the Mitsubishi Technical Service Bulletin they issued about the troubles getting the codes to set.
95 thru 97 factory turbo ECUs have a bug & the monitors (readiness codes) reset at keyoff therefore, never set. It's a known problem & the EPA standard has published exemption for these car years.The documents are uploaded on this forum. Search for "readiness monitors" & you should find them &...
Motors don't like idling so there are several things added in to the tuning to help them idle. What specifically is your idling doing? What's not correct? You need to tell us more with details. Are you starting your idle tuning using the AEM base calibration settings & trying to tweak from there?
I'd go condensing and as for the expansion tank, I have to thank my local governance, they're either idiots and have no place being involved in making regulations. That or have investments in check valve & expansion tank manufacturers and local plumbing unions for campaign contributions.
Edit...
Navien's are condensing. Exhaust & intake can be PVC. I just ran the new PVC exhaust into the opening of my leftover tank water heater exhaust. Was very simple. You should be able to slip a tankless into the same space the tank heater was in, connect the water in to in, out to out, I'm natural...
I still stand by all my earlier comments. My Navien tankless has been one of my best decision and couldn't be more pleased. On/off with a push of a button, hot water in 60 seconds, and can change water temp as easy as scrolling to set the value. I use 120F for showering & general use but will...
Not today, actually Tuesday but; "pictures speak a thousand words". Anyway, not my fault, other driver crossed 5 lanes of stop & go traffic leaving a Home Depot parking lot running out through the gap drivers were leaving & whammy. I fely like I was doing a TV commercials where the little kid...
ASA shows all 2G's have been superseded to using the same radiator M/T or A/T. All mine are manual but it doesn't look like the radiator has an A/T cooler as part of it.
Something I didn't see mentioned which can cause clutch engagement problems are the tranny bolts to the bellhousing. Make sure they're all there, tight & torqued to spec. Especially the "crankwalk" bolt which install's right next to the driver side half shaft from the engine side, opposite...
A few years ago I had an over heating problem when I had to go up long hills. I end up fix this with a Mitsubishi OEM radiator cap. I tried a couple (2) of the radiator caps (Stants & some other off brand they had) but still would over heat. The OEM cap solved this for me.
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Are you snap spinning (sudden over steer)? What's the spring rate of your front? May want to look into more front spring to push more force to the back.
Most likely. I'm at 6000 ft, air is thin (less density) and has a harder time carring the heat away probably. It was summer when I melted my fan & we see 100° plus temp for several days every year too.
Yes. Happened to me with the T-25. Was still running the OE exhaust manifold. Had the lower heat shield off because I was connecting up a WBO2 for learning my AEM.
I melted my fan and did not have an exhaust leak. Found that the hot spot radiating the most heat was right at the turbo housing outlet into the O2 housing/downpipe. An exhaust leak should leave a soot witness mark.
It's not the manifold that's melting the fan. The turbine housing, O2 housing, & downpipe are the culprids. If you're running external WG off the O2, then this too & don't overlook the WG dumptube.
In the center console behind the radio. It's screwed to the metal framing supporting the plastic center console covers attach to.
Stop double posting the same question in multiple threads too.
@Zen Hakuren you're kind of new to our site. You may not have had a chance to browse through the "Resources" section yet. There's a lot of technical information available including the Factory Service Manuals nested in this section & can be downloaded.
@Dragon 3259 I have the hardest time trying to read any of your posts. Might want to try better grammar so folks can follow & maybe provide some guidance to your questions.
You say this because you've actually done a BLT & found no leaks? There's lot of modifying tables related to the idle calibration besides the basic ignition & fuel.
I bought a bag of 25 (or something) of these weather stripping clip about a year ago. Either from Amazon or eBay. You need to search for them by part number MU481027.
Yes. If you want to go back to OEM run a want to buy (WTB) in the Classifieds. All the #1 - #9 gets discarded when going with coilovers. Someone still might have all of this hiding in a closet or something & may be willing to let it go. Also, after 25 or so years most likely all the rubber...
Most folk get coilovers from crappy china sourced aftermarket companies. I don't think OEM are available anymore & would suggest getting Koni replacements. I check Koni's website & the still list both their sport & street offerings. My Koni's really smoothed out my ride compared to the Tein...
Yep. You'll need an air hammer to get the pins out (& maybe some ear plugs, hammering the pins was like ringing the Liberty Bell). Forewarn, it was not fun when I did mine, it was leaking like yours sounds like.
You can get to the tranny selector shaft seal by removing the shift linkage on top of it. It's not easy as the tapered, press fit pins are a pain the knock out (tapered meaning they only go in or out in one direction). I wouldn't try this with the tranny in the car either, space is very...
Sorry but what you're asking is fairly far up the ladder from a "tuner" perspective. Your trying to throw parts at your car without knowing how all these different individual pieces are engineered to working together.
This would depend on how your fuel system is set up. Usually the FMU is used when your fuel injectors are not properly sized (too small) for your fuel needs. FMU will increase fuel pressure non-linearly (6:1, 8:1) to force more fuel through the injectors. An FPR tries to hold the fuel...
FPR are not tuned. You adjust them for a specific pressure & they keep this pressure constant between the the intake manifold & fuel line so the difference is always the same (i.e.: the pressure difference across the fuel injector in & out needs to remain the same). You adjust tuning through...
Sorry but I'm with @chrysler kid on your battery's power ground.Both my 2G DSMs battery positive have three wires, 2 white (maybe 3 gauge) for the distribution block (fuse box) & the main, large black positive wire (maybe 0 gauge) going to the starter solenoid. My battery negative has the...
It depends on what material the bumper is made from. OEM bumpers were urethane but different plastics & fillers don't always work with each other and need proper matching so everything will bond.