Either by hand or using IPT's shift box. You'll find the 1-2 shift takes a little longer than the 2-3. I use a standard Proform shift light to help with the 1-2, moving the lever at about x rpm, the transmission completing the shift by x+700 rpm or so. E.g.: 1-2 shifted my 2.0 at 7500 rpm...

Awesome run Lee :thumb:How's the tranny holding up? Btw, is the center diff easy to swap in and out?

I'll double check tonight, but out is the rear one, in is the front one.

FP3's with Manley's here. Measured seat pressure, no shims, is better than advertised Ferrea's. Months ago, I posted a graph here .Head (1g) has even heavier 2mm o.s. valves.Engine (built 2.4) runs great, and so far have rev'ed to 7900 rpm.

The nice thing about the $400 setup is that it bolts straight on.The $200 setup isn't so straightforward.FAL has 2 versions of the cheaper setup. The slightly more expensive one has an adjustable thermorst.I'm pretty sure all 3 have the same fans & shroud.I use the $400...

You should see significant gains by shifting manually. You'll need to practice as the shifts don't happen instantly, and the 1-2 and 2-3 shift delay are a little different. I use a shift light to help.

Ok, I feel like a heel. :sosad: I cannot for the life of me find the *.xdf file that I swear I downloaded in the file section.So, email me if you want the file and I'll reply back with the *.xdf file I use for E931.

jeezuz... there's a *.xdf file in the files section of the group if you just look. It's a E931 file which will work also with EA01 chips. If you need a a EA02 file I made one you can have... but I should probably upload it to the group. Other bins you'll be outta luck and you'll be on your...

....and don't spread misinformation: SOHC 4G64 7-bolt blocks, like mine which came out of a 95+ Expo, have those 5 holes.And still: the DOHC 4G64 galant block doesn't have them, which makes sense since it uses a DOHC head.You are right only in the point that that G4CS blocks don't...

Non-detergent oils shouldn't have any zinc. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and search the virgin oil analysis forum.Here's one search result.

...because the head gasket doesn't completely cover the holes. But go ahead, try it and see how "no oil is going to go through there." Have you never had a dipstick pop up and blow oil everywhere?!?!?! Jeezuz, I feel like Defiant.... WTF

G4CS and Galant DOHC 4G64 blocks do not require the 5 oil drain holes to be blocked as I believe they don't exist. 7-bolt 4G64's on the other hand require it as shown here, which is what I followed on my 64/63, and it works fine.

Do you remember what eprom you originally had? EA01, EA02, E932, etc, etc

Sweet97 meant www.dsmchips.comBtw, after agonizing about the different types and brands of injectors, I came across a couple bits of info on Lucas injectors, one of them from Russ Collins himself:"After dissembling every make of injector that there is, We have found that the stainless...

RC 1000's here in a blowthru MAFT setup. Get Jeff to do a chip for you or learn how to do it. Idle is great and there's plenty, P L E N T Y :rocks: of fuel if you need it.

Is anyone using a manual tranny eprom successfully?I get fuel cut with it at about 3100 to 3200 Hz, but when I swap in a AT eprom (with just injector size correction), it runs fine.I thought the ECU's were basically the same except for the eproms.

There's a timing drop between auto tcu shifts that I believe doesn't exist if you shift it manually, or better yet, if you use a manual eprom'd ecu.

Smic: 196f Fmic: 217f

7psi spring is working. Been using it about a week now on a 60-1 at 17psi max. There's still a little bit of surge "occasionally" but definitely not all the time. Still breaking in a new 2.4 motor so I'm not always running up to 17psi, it's more like between 12 and 15. It's certainly quieter...

RS60T here. On a built 2.4 w/FP3's and a bunch of other stuff. What motor, etc, are you putting it on?Anyway, to quote a DSM cliche, "lag is overrated."

Yes, Jeff's site is hallowed ground :cool:My CAI:

Actually, the temperature difference is not 1:1. It's better than that :thumb: . But let the masses believe otherwise.... need cannon fodder for Tuesday nights :shhh:

Dieselgeek, any of your MS vehicles have auto tranny's?

Yep dieselgeek, you are a "Turbo(insert car type) Forum" posting whore :D I read your Ford Megasquirt install stuff to a disbelieving NA 5.0 owner who uses TweecerRT. Great work you're doing. :thumb:

Not sure about PER-111. Did you pull the stock water cooler off and check the thread size that goes IN to the filter housing? I believe it's a different thread size than the part that goes to the oil filter.PER-1070 and PER-1791 look fine.You'll have to pull your bumper cover to...

Sure. From left to right:1. oil thermostat 2. oil filter spin on adapter 3. remote oil filter mountThey're all listed w/prices on one page if you go to the "oil thermostat" link on the index of RacerPartsWholesale.2. Remove the sandwhich air-water cooler, which will give you...

That pic above is the *correct* way to do things: oil thermostat between remote filter and cooler. Having a -4AN feed line off the filter for the turbo is another good idea which I've been doing for 2 years now. The reason I do not use another cooler for the turbo oil is because I do not use...

What BW said, except "clarance" is spelled "clearance".Some specific things come to my mind:Did you do a balance shaft eliminator kit? If so, when you tear it apart again, check the rotation of the 2 bearings.While rare, you might check the oil pump pickup tube/strainer. Make sure...

Can't help but thinking of something like this, "...ummm, Dr. Evil, that would be '3 BILLION' dollars...."Coup, nice vid. How are things sorting out so far?Btw, great job on the bumper. Best 1G bumper cut I've seen yet. :thumb: Maybe I'll try that before doing a (ugh) Drift kit...

What anconover said. It's been covered before:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145227&page=3&highlight=oil+cooler+hose+size

Looking good Definitiveno. Next time you talk with him, ask if he does 4G64 shortblocks?...and guys, it's "turbulence", not turbulance....

A SCC ultimate car competitor from a year or two ago had rims like that.

Get a Keydiver chip....and after *insert get quick rich scheme here* brings in some dough, I highly suggest the MAFT w/GM MAF sensor.Is the block stock? A 93 GSX is a 1G 7-bolt with small rods.

Ah, welcome to the wonderful world of DSM engine rebuilding WTFTips? Yeah.... make sure you've got a good, reliable beater car/truck. Personally, I prefer Ford Rangers. They run forever and will transport that block and head to and from the machine shop quite well. ROFLTip: Do...

It's amazing how much the DSM ECU mods are in their infancy. Nothing like the GM ECU's or the Ford EEC. E.g. - the Ford TweecerRT can do things that make the DSMLink look like a Fisher Price toy. Worse yet, DSMLink is slightly more expensive! I'm not knocking them at all, this is a market...

Scott-Not sure if I understand what exactly you're asking for. ECU gets crank angle info from CAS from pin 21, TDC sensor (the *other* CAS sensor) from pin 22.Coils are fired from power transistor set off from: Pin 54: Power transistor for 1&4 coil Pin 55: Power transistor for 2&3...

Above - engine oil temp sensor off head, tee'd into -4 engine oil pressure gauge hose. Below - trans oil temp gauge inline with -6 cooler line.

If I clocked my AGP 60-1 compressor cover as much as you did on that Holset, I'd have to resort to some sort of hacking as well.Will slim line fans help your compressor fitment, in your estimation?

Is the compressor outlet clocked at about 2 o'clock (looking at the inlet, 12 is straight up at the exhaust mani)?

The pictures originally enquired about are located here:http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81920

A 1G AWD that's not a 90, and it's bone stock? Yep, do a compression check and if it's good, get it.

In *my* world, I'd outlaw tractor-trailers, everyone would drive a sportscar or sportbike, make the streets of Willow (or equivalent) the driving test (every year), take over all central/south American countries between the latitudes of Florida and Boliva and then move the U.S. poplulation...

He asked about the cam "gears." And no, there's mechanically no difference. There may be some marking differences but that shouldn't matter if you pay attention to: dowel pins straight up at 12 o'clock for both cams, then for the gears: timing mark on exhaust at 3 o'clock, timing mark on...

It's in the VFAQ.

Jegs 3 x 289-42323 $19.99 MANDREL U BEND 3" OD 5" radius 1 x 555-30611 $13.99 EXH TUBING 3.0"X4'(EA) 1 x 289-42760 $21.99 ELBOW-ALUMINIZED 3" ODSummit 1 x FLO-R3025 $21.88 Flowmaster Slip-On Reducer Cones Pair 2.5" to 3" 1 x HED-12014 $17.99 Hedman 90 Degree Bends 2" 1 x...

What Sweet97 said. Get silicone for versatility.No denting here. Not sure why some have problems with this. Seems pretty cut and dry:

Removing honeycombs is professionally frowned upon as the correct technical term is "flow straightener" not honeycomb.But in the cheap DSM world pre-2004(?) it was a fairly common occurrence. I highly suggest replacing with a MAFT and GM MAF ASAP. Then one can worry more about more...

I asked this same question on the IPT forum, and John stated the above (Mobile1+Lubegard).Don't worry about the fluid you already have, DSM's are natural "bleeders" :cry: . So by the time you get all the leaks fixed, THEN flush everything and replace with Mobil1/Amsoil/whatever..."and"...

Yeah, I use Chrysler ATF to :tease: flush the tranny, then fill 'er up with Mobile1 ATF and a bottle of black Lubegard :thumb: .